About to start paint correction - need some help

Nav45

New member
Hey everyone, I am extremely new when it comes to detailing so I am here to learn a bit. Sorry but this is will be a rather long questionnaire/advice seeking post.

My car is a Mazda 3 that has a lot of swirls in this, though some of them appear to be light. The paint itself appears to be in decent shape except for some panels. I am going to purchase a Griot's random orbital polisher to try to remove the swirls. Can someone recommend me a compatible backing plate for the Griot's polisher? There is one on their site but I'm not sure if that is better than some of the other backing plates (such as the Hook n loop?).

I am confused as to what products I should buy and how to use them. I was originally going to purchase M105 and M205 polishes to use with an orange Hexlogic pad on the polisher. But I don't have access to an indoor garage right now, I will have to do this outside, though I will try to be in a mostly shaded area. So, I'm now leaning on using the Poorboy's World Professional Polish because it can be used outdoors (thanks for the suggestion RTexasF). But I'm still somewhat confused as to what pad to use.

I am probably also going to start a new washing method after getting the paint in good condition (probably a month from now). I will buy a foam gun, some kind of soap, etc in order to do 2 bucket washes. I will probably do this every week or every other week. But for now, I will use a rinseless wash solution and then use clay to get the car ready for polishing.

So after the wash, claying and polishing, I'm thinking of using a sealant like Blackfire Crystal Seal or Opti-Seal and then putting Collinite 845 over it. But since I'm very indecisive, I sometimes think its better to use one product rather than using both. So, only use Crystal Seal or only use Collinite 845. I'm leaning towards Opti-Seal or Crystal Seal but I don't know much. I want something that produces a decent shine but durability and protection takes more priority.

I would appreciate any help. Thank you.
 
Congrats on getting your car and more importantly your wash technique down. The GG is a good beginner polisher. Always start with the least aggressive method first. If you are only going to start with a couple products I would suggest the following:

Compound: Menzerna FG400 (for beginners I'd stick with DAT product)
Polish: CarPro Reflect
Pads: Buff N Shine Orange
Buff N Shine White

Again, start least aggressive and check results. Buff N Shine white pad with Reflect would be a good starting point on minimally swirled paint. If that doesn't produce good results jump up to FG400 with the Orange pad. A subsequent polish with Reflect will most likely be needed to refine the finish from the compounding.

The most important aspect maintenance is the washing. Scratches/swirls will happen, nature of the beast, the key is minimalize the damage by good wash techniques and good products. Foam gun/wash mitt method is my go to method for washing now. Lead the mitt with a good stream of soap from the foam gun with occasional (after every panel) rinsing of the mitt. Use a good waffle weave towel (or blower) to dry vehicle.

This is is just a cliff note version of the process. Let us know if you have any other questions and how it goes. Show us some pics as well!!
 
Hey 52split, thank you. The car is about 6 1/2 years old now and is always outside. Plenty of miles on it as well. It has held up well considering I only started caring for the paint a few months.

I have heard of the FG400 and it is one of the polishes that I was considering along with the PB's World Polish and M105/M205. So if I use PB's polish, I believe only that one polish is required. As far as I know, no other polish is required to be used in conjunction with it. Plus it can be used outdoors, so that is a plus.

So your suggesting I use the CarPro Reflect with the white pad first? That would make sense because, as you mention, using a less aggressive method first would be better. So first try that and see. If swirls are still present, use FG400 with Orange pad and then use Reflect again. Right? If so, it might be better to order the CarPro Reflect and a white pad first and see how they do.

Is the PB's Professional Polish similar to the CarPro Reflect in terms of aggressiveness?

I will post pics when everything I want to do is done.

Thank you.
 
PoorBoys Pro Polish is a good chemical cleaner with no abrasives. Your not going to remove swirls using that and a GG.
Pro polishes are designed for use with rotary or the flex 3401. Stay with the DATs.
52 probably has a better idea.
I love Collinite 845 but it isn't friendly with hi temps or in sun. Be careful if you decide to use it.
What color is the Mazda?
You may want to top it t with some PoorBoys White Diamond or Black Hole to help hide remaining swirls before the LSP.
 
Shawn, OK, thanks. The color is Galaxy Grey Mica.

I hope the FG400 and CarPro Reflect are good to use outdoors. I will likely order both of them along with the white and orange pads. If the CarPro doesn't work in removing swirls, I would then use FG400. As you can see, I need hand holding. :D

What do you guys think of M105 and M205? I've seen videos of these two products so I think I'm more familiar with them and have an idea of how to use them (I think). Of course, those videos were in an indoor garage which I don't have at the moment.

So lets see I finish polishing and the results are mostly good, do I then simply apply sealant/wax or do I need to wash the car again?

I appreciate you guys helping me out.
 
You can use just about any compound/polish outdoors...just out of direct sunlight. Some manufacturers claim they are "sun friendly"
," but try and stay out of direct sunlight to keep the panels cool and the product from drying out. Just stay in the shade and you should be good to go. There are many products that you could use, and I own numerous, just trying to keep things simple and the product list short for you since you are starting out.

1. Wash & dry vehicle
2. Decontaminate (clay or clay alternative) - just use Meguairs clay from local store
3. Polish a test spot (try Reflect (finishing polish) or similar with white/orange pad, if you are happy with result continue with the rest of the car. If not, bump up to FG400 or similar with orange pad. If result is acceptable, proceed with the rest of the car. Second step might be needed to refine finish, IF SO, Reflect and white pad.
4. Wipe car down with rubbing alcohol/water mix to show "true finish" and assist with LSP adherance. Apply your desired LSP (coating is my recommendation).
 
PoorBoys Pro Polish is a good chemical cleaner with no abrasives. Your not going to remove swirls using that and a GG.
Pro polishes are designed for use with rotary or the flex 3401. Stay with the DATs.

I beg to differ. The cut you get with pro polish will be dependant on the pad you choose to use. I believe pro polish is just a cleaner but you still get cut from the pad. I thought I remember reading PP2 uses both mechanical and chemical abrasives or something. Either way, yes you can very well remove swirls with a DA and PP or PP2. In fact my favorite product to use is PP2 when I want a lot of cut but an LSP ready finish.

This picture is a softer paint from a Yukon Denali. I was able to achieve these results with a PC and PP2. In direct sunlight too. Zero issues with the pro polishes in direct sun. Don't dry out and wipe off effortlessly

20140828_142206.jpg
 
You can use just about any compound/polish outdoors...just out of direct sunlight. Some manufacturers claim they are "sun friendly"
," but try and stay out of direct sunlight to keep the panels cool and the product from drying out. Just stay in the shade and you should be good to go. There are many products that you could use, and I own numerous, just trying to keep things simple and the product list short for you since you are starting out.

1. Wash & dry vehicle
2. Decontaminate (clay or clay alternative) - just use Meguairs clay from local store
3. Polish a test spot (try Reflect (finishing polish) or similar with white/orange pad, if you are happy with result continue with the rest of the car. If not, bump up to FG400 or similar with orange pad. If result is acceptable, proceed with the rest of the car. Second step might be needed to refine finish, IF SO, Reflect and white pad.
4. Wipe car down with rubbing alcohol/water mix to show "true finish" and assist with LSP adherance. Apply your desired LSP (coating is my recommendation).

I will definitely try to be in shade when I start polishing. Or I might wait for a certain time of day. We will see.

I appreciate you trying to keep it simple. Trust me when I tell you there are A LOT of products out there and it is hard to pick one :D

So the Reflect can work as a finishing polish after the FG400 (if I use it). I see. Sort of like M205 after the M105. As for rubbing solution, I think I might just get a pre-made solution that's designed to remove polishes. Appreciate the suggestion.

Thanks.
 
I beg to differ. The cut you get with pro polish will be dependant on the pad you choose to use. I believe pro polish is just a cleaner but you still get cut from the pad. I thought I remember reading PP2 uses both mechanical and chemical abrasives or something. Either way, yes you can very well remove swirls with a DA and PP or PP2. In fact my favorite product to use is PP2 when I want a lot of cut but an LSP ready finish.

This picture is a softer paint from a Yukon Denali. I was able to achieve these results with a PC and PP2. In direct sunlight too. Zero issues with the pro polishes in direct sun. Don't dry out and wipe off effortlessly
attachment.php

Wow that is quite a difference using the Pro Polisher 2. Seems like its a potent polisher. Yes, I have read and seen that different pads are used to work differently - an orange pad will help with swirls, , I believe.

My car's swirls are not as bad as the picture but when the light is on them, they are easily seen, especially in some areas. It's good to know there's another option (not that I really need too many more options :D). Also good to know the product is easy to use. That should help an inexperienced person like myself.

Thanks Shane.
 
ShaneB- Gee, "soft paint" on a Yukon?!? They must've changed it since I had mine, it rivaled my Audis for hardness!

Nav45- I'm no hater of 845 (still use it now and then) but IMO it's not really your best choice, if only because other LSPs are more durable.

My only issue with M205 is that it leaves a lot of the Trade Secret Oils behind, and they can 1) conceal flaws temporarily so they appear to "come back" and especially 2) cause bonding issues with some LSPs. I *always* strip the oils, and no I don not find IPA effective for this, I need to use a dedicated product (I use Top of the Line's AkrylaClean, but others use a product called, IIRC, Eraser).
 
It was definitely on the softer side. A week later I used the same combo on one of the guys neighbors Mercedes Benz and didn't get nearly the same results in terms of cut. Still made improvement but not as much
 
1) Can someone recommend me a compatible backing plate for the Griot's polisher?

2) I am confused as to what products I should buy and how to use them.

3) I'm still somewhat confused as to what pad to use.

4) I am probably also going to start a new washing method...

5) So after the wash, claying and polishing, I'm thinking of using a sealant

6) I want something that produces a decent shine but durability and protection takes more priority.

I would appreciate any help. Thank you.


1) Meguiars Soft Buff DBP5 DA Polisher 5 inch Backing Plate <- Excellent BP
I recommend using a 5" backing plate and 5"-5 1/2" pads with a DA polisher.

2) If I only had two compounds/polishes they would be Megs M101 and Carpro Reflect

3) I like using the Carpro 5" Flash Pad with M101 for paint correction (swirl removal)
I like the Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads
One - Cyan, One - Tangerine and One - Crimson to start

4) The basic Two-Bucket-Method IMHO is a excellent method for cleaning paint
Two Grit Guards, a quality Merino Wool wash mitt and quality drying towels.

5) I like different sealants on different colors I believel BFWD AFPP lasts longer than BF Crystal Seal
IMHO BFWD AFPP has a much warmer "look" than most sealants, almost a quality Carnuaba "look".
Collinite 845 does have good longevity but IMHO is has a bright and shiny "look" to it.

6) There are TONS of different Last Step Products (LSP) for most of them it's looks vs. durability.
Again, IMHO there are many LSP products that offer very good longevity and durability.

I like Carpro Iron-X LS and Reflect for cleaning the paint. also, quality microfiber towels are a MUST!
 
You mentioned about a foam gun and I would recommend for you to skip it for now. You are starting out to learn washing and polishing techniques. You might experience too much product overload. My impression is you are also doing your own car so I assume you are looking to keep the cost low.

For backing plates, you may want to invest in these two:
Dual Action Flexible 5 inch Backing Plate
3 Inch Dual Action Flexible Backing Plate

The standard backing plate that comes with GG6 is too big in my opinion for paint correction. I was not able to get results out of it. With the 5inch plate, you can purchase smaller pads that will do correction effectively. The 3inch is for smaller areas.

The M105/M205 combo worked great for me and not so great for me sometimes. The oil in M205 needs a good IPA wipe down and when I used it on black paint, I found it finicky (meaning I caused light marring from my wiping). I also own FG400 but cannot provide feedback until I try it this Spring.

To really reinforce maintaining your car has to be an enjoyable experience. And I found that for myself, the less tools I have to drag out, the more often I wash my car. Nowadays I use a few towels for rinseless and once a month I drag out the hose for a 2 bucket wash.
 
ShaneB- Gee, "soft paint" on a Yukon?!? They must've changed it since I had mine, it rivaled my Audis for hardness!

Nav45- I'm no hater of 845 (still use it now and then) but IMO it's not really your best choice, if only because other LSPs are more durable.

My only issue with M205 is that it leaves a lot of the Trade Secret Oils behind, and they can 1) conceal flaws temporarily so they appear to "come back" and especially 2) cause bonding issues with some LSPs. I *always* strip the oils, and no I don not find IPA effective for this, I need to use a dedicated product (I use Top of the Line's AkrylaClean, but others use a product called, IIRC, Eraser).

Oh, ok Accumulator. I am still looking around for a good long lasting sealant type product. The Collinite 845 seems like a good product in terms of looks and protection, though it may not be as long lasting as some sealants. If it can protect for at least 2 months, I'll be pretty happy with that. Plus, I then then put another layer or two on it.

What other sealants/waxes do you recommend that are fairly easy to apply and last a while? Also, I would really like a sealant/wax that can go on trim and keep it looking good and also protect it. That would be a big plus. I might be wrong but I've seen it mentioned that Collinite can be applied on trim and it protects it.

I appreciate your points on the M205. For a novice like me, that is somewhat concerning. I will have an IPA type product on hand but it's something I would rather not deal with.

Thank you.
 
1) Meguiars Soft Buff DBP5 DA Polisher 5 inch Backing Plate <- Excellent BP
I recommend using a 5" backing plate and 5"-5 1/2" pads with a DA polisher.

2) If I only had two compounds/polishes they would be Megs M101 and Carpro Reflect

3) I like using the Carpro 5" Flash Pad with M101 for paint correction (swirl removal)
I like the Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads
One - Cyan, One - Tangerine and One - Crimson to start

4) The basic Two-Bucket-Method IMHO is a excellent method for cleaning paint
Two Grit Guards, a quality Merino Wool wash mitt and quality drying towels.

5) I like different sealants on different colors I believel BFWD AFPP lasts longer than BF Crystal Seal
IMHO BFWD AFPP has a much warmer "look" than most sealants, almost a quality Carnuaba "look".
Collinite 845 does have good longevity but IMHO is has a bright and shiny "look" to it.

6) There are TONS of different Last Step Products (LSP) for most of them it's looks vs. durability.
Again, IMHO there are many LSP products that offer very good longevity and durability.

I like Carpro Iron-X LS and Reflect for cleaning the paint. also, quality microfiber towels are a MUST!

I appreciate your suggestions, Merlin :)

The M101 is described as a heavy cut compound. I'm wondering if this is too much for a soft pain car like the Mazda 3?

The BFWD AFPP seems great. Certainly a product I would put on my list to possibly buy. I would probably just use this product by itself. I see: so your saying BFWD has a certain depth to it while the 845 has a different look. Interesting. I guess different colors might look better with either product?

I'm going to get this microfiber cloth to do a little touch up here and there when I do my paint correction:

Gold Plush Jr. Microfiber Towel, gold detail cloth, buffing towel, microfiber buffing towel, micro fiber

Good one or something else you suggest?

Thank you.
 
You mentioned about a foam gun and I would recommend for you to skip it for now. You are starting out to learn washing and polishing techniques. You might experience too much product overload. My impression is you are also doing your own car so I assume you are looking to keep the cost low.

For backing plates, you may want to invest in these two:
Dual Action Flexible 5 inch Backing Plate
3 Inch Dual Action Flexible Backing Plate

The standard backing plate that comes with GG6 is too big in my opinion for paint correction. I was not able to get results out of it. With the 5inch plate, you can purchase smaller pads that will do correction effectively. The 3inch is for smaller areas.

The M105/M205 combo worked great for me and not so great for me sometimes. The oil in M205 needs a good IPA wipe down and when I used it on black paint, I found it finicky (meaning I caused light marring from my wiping). I also own FG400 but cannot provide feedback until I try it this Spring.

To really reinforce maintaining your car has to be an enjoyable experience. And I found that for myself, the less tools I have to drag out, the more often I wash my car. Nowadays I use a few towels for rinseless and once a month I drag out the hose for a 2 bucket wash.

Hey Zelfiris, you are definitely correct about the product overload part :D. Wow, my head is spinning from so much information that it's hard to figure it out sometimes. I'm definitely going to stick to as few products as I can and try to keep it simple.

Thanks for the suggestions, that looks like a good backing plate for the Griot's DA. I'm definitely going to be using 5 in. pads. But the question is, which ones? I've been suggested a few by some nice people and I will give them a look. I just need to find out which pad will work better with soft paint and also be good at removing swirls with a milder polish/compound. I don't know too much about the difference between a polish and compound, LOL.

Your the second person in this thread who has said something about the M205 leaving a residue behind. Interesting.

Once again, you are correct. I like to stick with a few good products and use them consistently. But the reason I want to get a foam gun and two buckets is because it seems nice to spend a couple of hours cleaning your car. It'll give me a chance to chill out a bit. It's one of the reasons why I'm considering the longer wash method rather than the rinseless or waterless wash.

Thank you.
 
Nav45- Yeah, the way 845 is *SO* user-friendly, and its being trim-friendly, does make it easy to just reapply as needed. So don't be too quick to let people (like me ;) ) get you thinking that you oughta try something else! The Collinite waxes outlast some sealants IME and can provide *better* protection against etching from bugs and birds too.

I've generally switched my Collinite applications to their 476S, but again, that's just me.

The TSO residue from M205 isn't necessarily a deal-breaker, but on some paints it *has* driven me nuts (and on others it wasn't an issue). I really am all about the HD Polish though, and I resisted trying it for a long time- I wasn't expecting to be so impressed (had previously preferred 1Z High-Gloss over the M205 most of the time).
 
Here's my 2 cents I have both a PC and Flex 3401 I started using micro fiber pads on the PC with Wolfgang products. I use lakecountry ccs or hybrid with my flex. I also use 845 the best in my book, try different pads with the PC, different polishes find what you like and what works and have fun.
 
Nav45- Yeah, the way 845 is *SO* user-friendly, and its being trim-friendly, does make it easy to just reapply as needed. So don't be too quick to let people (like me ;) ) get you thinking that you oughta try something else! The Collinite waxes outlast some sealants IME and can provide *better* protection against etching from bugs and birds too.

I've generally switched my Collinite applications to their 476S, but again, that's just me.

The TSO residue from M205 isn't necessarily a deal-breaker, but on some paints it *has* driven me nuts (and on others it wasn't an issue). I really am all about the HD Polish though, and I resisted trying it for a long time- I wasn't expecting to be so impressed (had previously preferred 1Z High-Gloss over the M205 most of the time).

I'm actually thinking of possibly going with a coating but I'm not sure. I want to do proper washes but I can probably do them twice a month or so. I'm thinking a good coating will be good for a year and will protect the car from the environment. Please share your input.

If I don't go the coating route, I will probably go with Collinite 845. But first, let's see how this paint correction works out!
 
Here's my 2 cents I have both a PC and Flex 3401 I started using micro fiber pads on the PC with Wolfgang products. I use lakecountry ccs or hybrid with my flex. I also use 845 the best in my book, try different pads with the PC, different polishes find what you like and what works and have fun.

Hey Tpr1634, good to know about the Collinite! Certainly seems like a nice product to say the least. What specific pads do you use for light swirl removing on the PC?

You are right: one needs to find his technique and find what products work for him. I need some more pointers and then maybe I will catch on.

Thank you.
 
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