A Red S2000 Detailed - you name the defect, it's got it :)

stilez

New member
**9/28/06 Update**



I was given permission by Eric Dunn at Lake Country to “let the cat out of the bag�. For this detail (and many others) in the past month or so, I used the new Lake Country CCS Pads ( http://lakecountrymfg.com/featured.html ). Thanks to Eric at Lake, he gave me a couple samples to test out prior to its official introduction. To date, they have only been used in the OEM market.



So far, I could estimate the use of these pads on at least 10 different vehicles. They come in various shapes and sizes, but I was using the 6� pads in 1� thickness. The cut levels I had were the Orange Cutting, White Polishing, and Black Finishing. I used them with a 5� Lake Country flexible backing plate. These combos were used on the rotary and PC at various speeds (mentioned in threads).



Here are the main things I took from these pads…





Pros

- Small diameter allowed for easy maneuvering

- Flat pad design allowed to equal contact, easy control, and complete polish coverage

- Dimples allowed for storage of extra polish. Basically, you’d buff your 3’x3’ area, for instance, and once the polish/compound went to translucent, but you still had a few defects remaining, you’d turn off the machine, and press the pad against the surface in various locations to “re-bead� the panel, and then continue buffing.

- Dimples spread out heat from friction allowing a more effective buffing pass. I find that with standard flat foam pads, it makes the surface so hot on the rotary after 5 passes with compound that I have to move to the next panel, wait for the initial to cool, then come back, ultimately wasting time. These dimples act like air cooling pockets keeping the surface only very warm, at max. I was able to do my standard 5 overlapping passes with Hi-Temp Extreme Cut, then switch off, “re-bead� with the CCS technology, and continue buffing until it was ready for a final polish.

- Lake Country pads, in my experiences are always of the highest quality. After 10+ vehicles, none of my pads have any nicks or cuts and the backing Velcro works great. For reference, I machine wash/dry my pads after each use.



Cons

- Honestly, I was hard pressed to find a con in comparison to other pads I’ve used (Edge, Meguiars, Lake Country Concaved), however, I wish I had the thicker version (1.5� I believe) to use with the PC. The PC, as any regular user knows, flattens out pads a bit and that little extra cushion would’ve been nice.







Just to end off, I like these pads so much that my standard Lake Country 7.5� Concaved series have been stowed away, probably for good. I don’t even bring them on the road with me anymore. The success rate with these has surpassed anything I’ve used and I will continue using them.



If you have any further questions, please feel free. Thanks.







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------





I have been corresponding with a gentleman more recently about having me out to detail his car. He was a little far for me, but was willing to pay extra for my travels. Further, he wanted a really thorough exterior detail done. The way I understood it was he wanted the finish as close to perfect withOUT having to wetsand. He mentioned some defects via email but I got a little more awake when I arrived.





Having tried out another detailer recently, he already had a sour taste in his mouth about the "pros" out there. The only reason he chose me was because of the countless details he's seen (pics) and recommendation from one of my better clients. I knew I had my work cut out for me and if I came through, I'd have a client for life.





I started this detail at 1pm and finished just before 7. If you know of my previous work, you know that 6 hours on an exterior of a tiny car is wayyyyyyyyy longer than I'd usually take, but like I said, the owner wanted more or less, perfection.





Here is a shot of the previous detailer's work:



IMG_5918.jpg




To the lower left of the screen, notice the large circle of haze. He said he watched the detailer hold the buffer continously on that one spot. It must be that new technology buffing from the M5 Boards :rofl :rofl :rofl



Anyways, the surface was hologrammed, swirled heavily, had a couple R.I.D.S., lots of tar from Auto-Xing, some overspray from an "ok" repaint, tinted clear on some panels, mild oxidation in some random areas, and just general soil. My finals for this beautiful (when done) car were:





-CG Wash (top scrubbed with brush)

-Zaino Z18 clay with CG Wash as lube

-P21s Wheel Cleaner on wheels x 2

-TOL Tire Cleaner on tires/wells/undercarriage x 2

-Rinse/Dry



-Hi-Temp Extreme Cut/ Optimum Car Polish via rotary and a LC Orange Pad @ 1700 rpm x 2

-Menzerna PO106FF via PC and a LC Orange Pad @ 6 x 2

-Zaino Z-PC and #0000 Steel Wool on the exhaust pipes

-Klasse AIO on wheels

-Stoner's Invisible Glass for the windows



-Zymol Japon Wax by hand (client supplied/requested)

-Zaino Z16 on tires x 2

-CD-2 Engine Detailer in wells x 2





To the pics :)







Before (oxidized mirrors)

IMG_5895.jpg




Before (swirling and spot oxidation)

IMG_5900.jpg






Before (battered fender)

IMG_5910.jpg




After

IMG_5982.jpg
 
Before (dirty/tar infested)

IMG_5905.jpg






After

IMG_5938.jpg








Before (heavy swirling/hologramming)

IMG_5921.jpg






After

IMG_5933.jpg








Before (extreme swirling)

IMG_5915.jpg




After

IMG_5945.jpg
 
A couple glory shots :)





IMG_5955.jpg




IMG_5946.jpg




IMG_5962.jpg




IMG_5961.jpg






When I finished, the car was 99%+. I had the client use my Brinkmann Dual Xenon Light (thanks Greg!) to check the surface over. He was absolutely floored with the results and let me know he'd be referring me to his friends/fellow Auto-Xers.





Questions/Comments/Advice, please feel free.





Cheers!
 
WHOA!!! That is the CLEANEST S2K I have ever seen. Talk about perfection. Going the extra mile to make the customer happy. And for those "pros" pssshh i dont even wanna say. I've seen your work and this one blows me away. I almost fell out of my computer chair when i seen the whole after pictures. Fantastic job.
 
Awesome comeback.

I was thinking of purchasing a rotary myself for jobs like this.

Which one do you use and recommend and how long have you used it?



Once again, amazing work.
 
Geez, that car was hammered!! How can someone leave a car in such condition? How can you look at that and think "yep, that's as good as she'll look?"



Nice work man, really nice.
 
Hahaha. I dont know how many times i keep looking this thread over. The transformation is amazing. Would this qualify for the transformation of the month? And is that your car peeking behind the bushes? Your ride still looks good.
 
Thanks everyone :D.





Justin: I have been using the Makita 9227c for 3+ years. I like it a lot, but when it craps out (may be a while as it's a tank), I am going for the Metabo. The balance and execution of the Metabo is very close to flawless. It makes rotary buffing *that* much easier.





ebp: The owner eluded that the damage was all from the previous owner :nixweiss.





mr.ikon: Yep, she's in the street covered in dust from the landscapers across the road :(. The 100mph shot against a BMW and Saab on the way home cured that quickly :getdown .
 
Wow! Quite the turnaround Sean. As always you did a fantastic job, but this one was in some nasty shape at the beginning. The detailer who worked on this car before you should be taken out in the street and be tarred & feathered for doing such poor work.



I'm curious though what your thoughts on the Zymol Japon were (I know you said the customer supplied/requested it). Most of your recent details you've used Zaino and in terms of looks (obviously no comparison in terms of durability) I was wondering what you thought.
 
(Language edited by Moderator)



Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn! Friggin sweet! Nice work!
 
Very very nice work! He had to be impressed by that detail!



Quick question: I'm sure the HT EC+OP are responsible for most of the swirl removal and surface corrective action, but what exactly does the Menzerna 106ff add to the finish? In other words, why are you following with it as a last polishing step? I've never used the Menzerna polishes, so just curious. I was wondering what the finish would look like with just the EC+OP.



Mike :)
 
Thank you all :).





Mike: It's a good wax, but it's still a wax. I prefer the brighter look of a sealant, not to mention the durability. I only have Natty's Blue and FK1 Pink on tap nowadays and would say that the Zymol is closest to Natty's in look. The Zymol might have a slight edge in depth/wetness, but the price is right around the block of Souveran, so I would choose Natty's. As far as application, it's a bit finicky and if you look hard enough on the trunk shot, you will see a hair of streaking.





Diesel: :lol ...seriously, I laughed out loud.





Tiger: Being that Honda paint AND the repaint were very soft, the HTEC/OP left a leveled yet rather hologrammed surface. I tried using OP alone on the cutting pad and the deep defects just laughed. After buffing the front fender twice with PO106FF, then wiped it down, I was floored. The look was very deep, wet, and glowing. There was remarkable clarity and the paint was jumping off the car.



Further, the 106FF buffed the remaining swirls and holograms to a flawless finish. I hit each panel twice for 1 main reason, being absolutely sure the surface was as perfect as possible. But also, I obviously wasn't working with a lot of light so the little I could check with the sun coming through the trees gave me an idea on how the rest would work. Ultimatley, I checked each panel with the Brinkmann Dual Xenon light. Here is a shot after the 106FF:



IMG_5925.jpg
 
Wow...extremely impressive as always. That should be the standard for all red paint details. Incredible depth and richness with great clarity. Great job!
 
G35stilez said:
Thanks everyone :D.





Justin: I have been using the Makita 9227c for 3+ years. I like it a lot, but when it craps out (may be a while as it's a tank), I am going for the Metabo. The balance and execution of the Metabo is very close to flawless. It makes rotary buffing *that* much easier.





How would you suggest that I start out using one?

Any pointers?



Thanks man!
 
justin30513 said:
How would you suggest that I start out using one?

Any pointers?



Thanks man!





Meguiar's Videos :).





They are available online somewhere (www.bettercarcare.com maybe?). Also, try to get a junker or some junk panels to try on. If you are only going to be compounding with it, it's not a hard tool to make work. It's when you try to finish down clean where it does get interesting.
 
Back
Top