A real bad day with Menzerna P085RD...

M

mystickid

New member
I spent $220 on all my detailing equipment after months of learning here at autopia, and attempted my first detail today. 1998 Toyota Camry black paint.



I was using the Milwaukee Rotary 5460 (its actually quite easy to use), LC VC pads -> Light cut w/ SSR 2.5, and

LC VC Light Polishing pad w/ P085RD .





The ssr 2.5 with the Orange Light cut LC VC pad did get out all the swirls and almost all the scracthes. I think I need the yellow cutting pad for the rest.





However, my main disappointment was with the P085Rd and the white polishing pad.



I first primed the white polishing LC VC pad with QD and a liberal amount of polish.



I started at 3 (out of 5) on the Rotary and began spreading and then moved on up to four then 5 easing up on pressure.



Man, this polish never broke down on me or it never appeared to. It kept being liquidish and smeared. Then all of a sudden, while the polish was still moist and hazy and the rortary on 4, the rotary satrted making a friction-ish noise and would wobble off. I couldnt understand it. It didn't happen at all with the SSR 2.5. SSR 2.5 worked till it was almost gone and I wiped off clean.



What am i doing wrong with the P085RD?? How do i know that the P085Rd is ready to be buffed off? is there a clue?



It's not even letting me come to a point where I can buff off. Am I putting too much, too little polish?? :hairpull :nervous2: :think:



What should i dooooooo????????



Please help! I'm so frustrated :hide:
 
I'm no expert on rotaries, but from what little I know it sounds as though you applied too much polish at too high speed.



With a PC, finishing polishes require a smaller quantity compared to corrective polishes.



Maybe a rotary user can chime in here.
 
Not familiar with that product, but you could be using to much of it and the buff is bogging down on it. Wipe it off and try a lesser amount.
 
PO85RD isnt the easiest product to use. Try using less, work it until its almost invisible, wipe off. If you still can't get it to work for you, PM me, cause I'd be interested in buying it off you. If you're new to a rotary, try Optimum Polish. It doesn't get any more rotary friendly than that.
 
I tried using less polish; 2 dime size drops but i can never get to the point where it's almost invisible. The rotary acts like its pad is completely dry before then and starts wobbling.



Any rotary/ P085RD users, please come in and help :sadpace: :help:



thanx everyone for the help so far. :cry:
 
themightytimmah said:
PO85RD isnt the easiest product to use. Try using less, work it until its almost invisible, wipe off............f you're new to a rotary, try Optimum Polish. It doesn't get any more rotary friendly than that.
Click to expand...



To add, I found myself having the same kinds of problems originally

with 85rd. So, when I used it via rotary, i would run it @ 1k-1200 rpms,

appliy mild pressure for the initial passes, then llighten up and let the

weight of the machine do the rest. I usually applied this with a finish pad

versus a polish pad. If I am using the PC or the Mak d/a, then I run

the machine around 4-4.5, apply pressure for inital passes, andlet off

for final passes. The approach is pretty much prime the pad with product

only, no water or qd spritz. Do this by hand to get some product on, then

apply 6" stripe. Always work small sections at a time, or it can dry off

quick on you and cause some problems. i could be wrong on this, but i

suspect that the moisture from a qd or water can help accelerate the

drying process of the polish on the pad. Nowaydays, i will only venture

to add moisture if i am using SSR2.5.



Optimum is on the other hand, a very user friendly polish, does not dry

out like most polishes, and I have found that I can get as good a finish

with it as i can with IP and FPPII combined.
 
PO85RD3.01 and PO85RD do not break down. They stay smeary. Mizzuri showed me how to check your work without stopping. He does both vertical and horizontal back and forth buffing and going by sound, seems like he uses 300-600 rpm to start and doesn't go any higher than 900

My makita's slowest speed is 600 and I start there with a little pressure, more on bad scratches and marring. Then go up to 1000 and back to 900 with no pressure and work it, regularly checking my work and I mist pad with water to extend the menzerna if necessary



Even FPII doesn't break down when I have used it but like it that way

Go over surface with damp mf buffing cloth to clean up.
 
How much QD did you put on the pad before you started to polish? I've never used that particular polish, but I know that I've found ya can get messy real fast if you use too much QD.
 
Way2SSlow,



I used meguiar's quick Detailer and misted twice before polishing.













If I use a PC, what LC VC pad should I use for P085RD :confused:



I think that may work better perhaps w/a PC
 
SVR said:
PO85RD3.01 and PO85RD do not break down. They stay smeary. seems like he uses 300-600 rpm to start and doesn't go any higher than 900
Click to expand...





It probably doesn't break down because its not generating enough heat. Don't be afraid to crank it up a bit, some where around 1400. The stuff literally disappears, completely different when using it with the pc.
 
Mystic, do you know exactly your buffer's speeds? These are not the same as the PC. Speed 3 on a rotary sometimes goes to ~1750. Just be careful.
 
1500 rpm on a LC Polishing Pad. Use a 6-8 inch bead for a 2'x2' area. Make 3 slow, overlapping passes. This has never let me down.
 
Clear coats respond well around 1200 to 1500 RPM's. Rarely does one need nor should one, ever exceed 1800 rpm's. Around 1750 should be max and a mild polishing pad should do most of ones paint correction.



Performing ones FIRST detail with a rotary should NOT be done on a BLACK car because the odds of it coming out nice and you having a great exoerience doing it are stacked against you......IMHO



Anthony
 
I did my first rotary job on a black car, came out great too. Guess I'm just special :chuckle:. I used OCP and a green pad on it, but it didnt need much work. Getting a rough black car looking nice is tough.



I second Anthony on the 1750RPM max, but I disagree on the usual speed. I like to run 1200 for Powergloss, 1500-1750 on OCP, around 1750 on PO85RD. 600 RPM for RMG :). If I were you, I'd listen to him not me though :).
 
themightytimmah said:
I did my first rotary job on a black car, came out great too. Guess I'm just special :chuckle:. I used OCP and a green pad on it, but it didnt need much work. Getting a rough black car looking nice is tough.



I second Anthony on the 1750RPM max, but I disagree on the usual speed. I like to run 1200 for Powergloss, 1500-1750 on OCP, around 1750 on PO85RD. 600 RPM for RMG :). If I were you, I'd listen to him not me though :).
Click to expand...



Actually we agree as I stated that 1200 to 1500 rpm's is best..... as in all around range for most needs :xyxthumbs



Anthony
 
1500 rpm on a LC Polishing Pad. Use a 6-8 inch bead for a 2'x2' area. Make 3 slow, overlapping passes. This has never let me down.
Click to expand...



__________________



Should only very light pressure be used with P085RD because since the Milwaukee 5460 is a hefty 8.8 lbs., I think the weight of the machine is whats causing it to jump off with friction.



Sould I go like about at 2 inch. per second when moving the polisher "slow"?
 
Yes, use very light pressure on the finishing polish. The weight of that big ol clunker :) should be sufficient. 2 inches per second sounds alright, keep feeling the paint to see if its getting too hot. I gauge my finishing speed more by heat than anything else.
 
Thanx themightytimmah,



After the Pad is primed how much P085Rd polish should be on the pad??? 2 dime size or a ring around the pad?



Thanx for all the help! :)
 
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