a question to the mobile professionals

P

pampos

New member
Hi again....

I wonder what you do in case of a car need 2 days for full detail...How do you calculate the price?What if the owner want to use the car until the next day of detailing??

And how do you handle it in general ?

Thanks once again guys...:2thumbs:
 
Detail the interior the first day. Save the exterior for the second day.



If there's too much work on exterior for just one day, you'll have to explain that he needs to choose whether he wants a properly cleaned car or he wants a less-than-perfect job.



If he wants the best of both worlds AND to drive it, walk(and let him know you're there when he wants it done right). You won't make him happy.
 
depends on distance. But more than likely a job that lasts that long will not be a cheap detail/reconditioning in the first place. But everything needs to be upfront with the vehicles owner about the process.
 
You should just charge by the hour. If it takes 1 day or 2 days, charge by the hour, and it is what it is.



I would do the interior the first day. If the car is really dirty, I would give it a thorough washing the first day, and clean the wheels, wheel wells and tires. Hopefully, if he didn't get it very dirty while driving it, you could start the second day with a quick ONR wash, then proceed to clay, polish, and sealant/wax. Then you would finish with a final wipedown, windows, trim, etc...
 
Thanks guys...if it is OK to tell me,how much you would charge in that case??lets say that the interior it is OK and don't need any special treatment, but the paint is full of swirls without deep scratches,a big car with hard CC..(probably 2 days with DA polisher as i don't use rotary)...
 
cant tell you what to charge, its really up to what you want to charge to be competitive/stay in business...if you charge twice the
 
but something like a two day detail would run about 800-1200...just take your hourly rate and figure out an estimate on how long with will take, do the math, and tell your client...
 
^ Agreed. People need to understand that when you dedicate that kind of time to a vehicle it is not a cheap car wash detail for $100 and should not expect it to be priced as such. Be competitive in your pricing and price yourself according to your skills, if you feel you are worth it, charge for it.
 
agreed I'd charge someone between the 800-1200 stated before....probably closer to the higher end of the range due to fuel/travel/lodging expenses etc....
 
You can do the interior first. Wash the car, clean the wheels/guards and clay the car. I'd start buffing the bonnet to see what steps will be used on the rest of the car.



Then on the second day all you need to do is give it a quick wash and start buffing!



Alternatively you could wash,clay and do the first two steps of the machine polish on the first day.



Then do the glaze/wax on the second day, with the interior.
 
If you're doing serious paint correction, you need to learn to use a rotary. It's just not fair to you or the client to try to do correction with a PC on a hard clear coat cause they're going to pay a ton for the many hours yet the car will not be perfect since you're using a PC.....



For two day processes I have them drop it off with me. Or if they dont' want to do that, they'll pay double for gas.



Josh
 
JoshVette said:
If you're doing serious paint correction, you need to learn to use a rotary. It's just not fair to you or the client to try to do correction with a PC on a hard clear coat cause they're going to pay a ton for the many hours yet the car will not be perfect since you're using a PC.....



For two day processes I have them drop it off with me. Or if they dont' want to do that, they'll pay double for gas.



Josh
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I am trying not to charge too much because of that... :D



You mean that there is a big difference between DA and rotary finish??i know that rotary gives better results but is there sooo much difference??

And yes,at least i try to doing serious paint correction,as much as UDM can help me :D
 
pampos said:
You mean that there is a big difference between DA and rotary finish??i know that rotary gives better results but is there sooo much difference??
Click to expand...



YES! There's a night and day difference in almost ever application. (pictures (and videos) on the internet don't show the whole story)
 
Yes, you will save a lot of time with a rotary, BUT if you decide to get one grab a junker hood or two and practice on it first.
 
pampos said:
I am trying not to charge too much because of that... :D



You mean that there is a big difference between DA and rotary finish??i know that rotary gives better results but is there sooo much difference??

And yes,at least i try to doing serious paint correction,as much as UDM can help me :D
Click to expand...



As a few have already said, yes it is night and day difference between a UDM and a rotary.



Plus it will pay for itself in about half a detail. I can typically make about $600+ off a paint correction process and it'll take me about 8 hours to get it perfect. You're going to make $160 for about 10-12 hours of work with the UDM and it still won't be perfect. (no offense, I'm just trying to make a point)
 
If you have serious correction, like David and Josh stated - you need a rotary. Not only for time but it does a better job. I'll go out on a limb here and state that you could get by with Megs 105 with wool and 3M Ultrafina SE with the 3M blue foam pad and do 99.9% of all "rough" details.
 
i didn't know that is such a big difference on the finish....

and don't worry about what are you saying to me..i am new on that and all critics (good and bad) are acceptable..Thanks for your answers,i really appreciate that,and i know that i have to learn how to use a rotary..Has anyone a photo or something 50/50 DA/ROTARY just to see the difference??
 
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