A Question about differences in Glaze & Sealant

S

Shelpster66

New member
I recently bought some Klasse AIO. I already have Poorboys EX-P and have used it on my vehicle with good results. I started with Pinnacle ASR and FP...then EX-P, then liquid souveran. (my last detail)

I'm not sure of some of the applications that you guys use for glaze. I somewhat understand the compound/polish/pad selection, but the speed glaze and sealant steps have me a bit confused. I'm just not sure when you decide you need a glaze and when you decide you need a sealant.....are they the same??.....do they do different things???....can you top either one of them with carnuba??



so many questions...so little time.
 
A glaze adds wetness enhance the gloss and some even add depth

some have fillers and abrasives in them to help hide and or remove any micro swirling-scratches prior to the LSP and in some cases extended protection

hth
 
Stay away from glazes if you're using sealents, just go with the tried and true Optimum compound, polish, poli seal combo. You could probably top that with the FMJ for even more protection if you want.



Or you could go OC, OP, and Werkstatt Prime topped with Acrylic jacket.



Glazes (in general) work well with Carnaubas like Souveran, P21S, Natty's Blue, CG's 50/50, etc.
 
Nimble said:
Stay away from glazes if you're using sealents, just go with the tried and true Optimum compound, polish, poli seal combo. You could probably top that with the FMJ for even more protection if you want.



Or you could go OC, OP, and Werkstatt Prime topped with Acrylic jacket.



Glazes (in general) work well with Carnaubas like Souveran, P21S, Natty's Blue, CG's 50/50, etc.
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OK....so if you glaze, then you don't use a sealant, but both can be topped with Carnuba.(?) At what point do you decide you want to use a glaze instead of a sealant?



I'm sorry for the noob questions, but I really want to figure this out, as I'm starting to use more diverse products than before and don't want a mess on my hands.



If anyone has time to explain over the phone, that would work too.....I can call you as it won't cost me anything....shoot me an email @ shelpdogg@gmail.com



Thanks
 
shelpdoggSVT- One of the problems is that companies use the terms "glaze" and "polish" in different ways, even within their own product line(s).



Generally, yeah, glazes work best under carnaubas but there are supposedly some new glazes out that will work under sealants.



Don't use glazes before products that have significant cleaning ability or those products will simply clean the glaze off the paint.



All the Meguiar's glazes (they call them "pure polishes" and they include #3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal step #2 Polish) will work under *Meguiar's* brand sealants like #21. Oh, and #80 Speed Glaze isn't really a glaze but more of a mildly abrasive polish (see how confusing this stuff can be).



As icu812 said, glazes can impart a few benefits: they can fill minor marring, they can add gloss, and they can add "richness". They're also great to use on repaints while the new paint outgasses/cures.
 
Thanks Accumulator...... I was hoping you would chime in soon.

As icu812 said, glazes can impart a few benefits: they can fill minor marring, they can add gloss, and they can add "richness". They're also great to use on repaints while the new paint outgasses/cures.
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From what icu812 said (thanks BTW icu812) , this tells me that the glaze is one of the last steps ...right before the LSP. Is this typically the route pro's follow? I bought the Klasse AIO because of all of the good things that were said about it on this forum. I haven't used it yet, but hope to this weekend.



This definately helps, but I'm still a bit fuzzy on this. Say for example....when you have a customer that needs a detail....at what point do you determine whether to go with the glaze or sealant?

I guess this is really my question...
 
shelpdoggSVT- Noting that I'm not a professional, I'd use a glaze when looks are more important than durability and especially if/when a bit of concealing is called for because (for one reason or another) you're not gonna remove all the light marring. Or when a color might benefit from some "richening" or "deepening". Honestly, I don't use glazes very often but that's just me on the paints I'm dealing with; on reds and dark colors the glaze might *really* add something. Yeah, it goes right before the LSP.



I only use sealants of finishes that I can get (and keep) basically perfect, otherwise I use a wax.



AIO would clean off any glaze, so you'd have to apply the glaze after the AIO and see if it made a difference. The potential problem is that the AIO leaves some protection behind so the glaze will be sitting on top of that as opposed to being in direct contact with the paint. A problem? I dunno :nixweiss but I myself would generally want the glaze to be in direct contact with the paint, filling and adhering to the little imperfections such as the paint's pores and microfissures/etc..



IMO it's easy to overthink this stuff and make it more involved than it needs to be. I'd do the AIO and put a wax on top of it. See how that looks and give it some more thought at that point.
 
I just used #7, followed by #20 and topped by #26. I don't know if this is correct but I can say for sure that the look is very impressive. There is a certain 'rightness' to it.



I finally got my camera working, took some pictures and when I tried to transfer them to my pc, it died. Anyway, I have it working now and will download them and post later.
 
shelpdoggSVT said:
OK....so if you glaze, then you don't use a sealant, but both can be topped with Carnuba.(?) At what point do you decide you want to use a glaze instead of a sealant?



I'm sorry for the noob questions, but I really want to figure this out, as I'm starting to use more diverse products than before and don't want a mess on my hands.



If anyone has time to explain over the phone, that would work too.....I can call you as it won't cost me anything....shoot me an email @ shelpdogg@gmail.com



Thanks
Click to expand...



From my POV, the big dog "glazes" that act like one (you know very very light contamination removal via chemicals, not usually abrasives, and mainly gloss enhancing and imperfection filling) are from ClearKote VMG or RMG, Danase speed glaze, Pinnacle XMT glaze, and Chemical Guy's Creme Glaze.



The "usual" point where someone decides to go with a glaze over a sealent seems to be on darker color cars, or cars where the detailer/owner decided not to remove too much clearcoat if the car had bad paint marring to begin with. So the glaze acts as a filler as well as a depth adder (great for dark colors). Alot of guys are "old school" and prefer the look of Carnauba waxes over sealents, so a glaze fits the bill better for that type of LSP.



IMO, if you have any marring, start with a orage pad and SSR 2.5 from PB's or Optimum polish with the orange, and that should remove most of it. If you want to remove all of it (assuming it's bad) jump up to the Optimum Compound with said orange pad, even yellow if you had REALLY bad marring. Assuming you can remove your marring with the SSR 2.5 or OP, you should be left with a clean surface ready for a quality glaze like RMG or Pinnacle XMT. Follow eithther of those up with a quality Carnauba like P21S or Natty's blue for a bit more depth and durability.



I simply prefer the look and feel of waxes over sealents, and have absolutely no problem reapplying them 4 times a year as opposed to twice a year with a sealent. It only takes me half an hour on my car, big deal. You could always throw down a layer of Collinite 476S if you only want to wax 2-3 times a year.
 
keesue said:
I just used #7, followed by #20 and topped by #26. I don't know if this is correct but I can say for sure that the look is very impressive. There is a certain 'rightness' to it..
Click to expand...



Then I'd say "yeah, it *is* "correct" ;) I know just what you mean about certain combos looking just right on certain paints.



One of the nice things about the Meguiar's line is the way you can combine a glaze, sealant, and wax in just the way you did; all their products are compatible that way.
 
Thanks guys.....starting to make a little more sense.......:think2



Or when a color might benefit from some "richening" or "deepening". Honestly, I don't use glazes very often but that's just me on the paints I'm dealing with; on reds and dark colors the glaze might *really* add something.
Click to expand...



I'll keep that in mind...I'll pick up some VMG and keep that for certain vehicles that may benefit from it.



IMO it's easy to overthink this stuff and make it more involved than it needs to be.
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Oh yeah...my head hurts.....



I just used #7, followed by #20 and topped by #26. I don't know if this is correct but I can say for sure that the look is very impressive. There is a certain 'rightness' to it.
Click to expand...

keesue....these are Megs products, correct? I look into getting some of those later. I'd love to see some pics of how it turned out.



The "usual" point where someone decides to go with a glaze over a sealent seems to be on darker color cars, or cars where the detailer/owner decided not to remove too much clearcoat if the car had bad paint marring to begin with. So the glaze acts as a filler as well as a depth adder (great for dark colors). Alot of guys are "old school" and prefer the look of Carnauba waxes over sealents, so a glaze fits the bill better for that type of LSP.



IMO, if you have any marring, start with a orage pad and SSR 2.5 from PB's or Optimum polish with the orange, and that should remove most of it. If you want to remove all of it (assuming it's bad) jump up to the Optimum Compound with said orange pad, even yellow if you had REALLY bad marring. Assuming you can remove your marring with the SSR 2.5 or OP, you should be left with a clean surface ready for a quality glaze like RMG or Pinnacle XMT. Follow eithther of those up with a quality Carnauba like P21S or Natty's blue for a bit more depth and durability.
Click to expand...



Nimble....thanks again for the input. Just deciding what to use on certain finishes is mind numbing when I read so many threads about what people use.....the different set ups and self-concocted mixtures. I'm really just wanting to learn the basics.

A lot of feedback on this thread has cleared up some misconceptions between the two.



You guys are the best.:bigups
 
keesue....these are Megs products, correct? I look into getting some of those later. I'd love to see some pics of how it turned out.



Yes, these are all Meguairs products. Camera is finally working and I will QD (Meguiars) and post pics this weekend. I am very pleased with the results.
 
Accumulator said:
Then I'd say "yeah, it *is* "correct" ;) I know just what you mean about certain combos looking just right on certain paints.



One of the nice things about the Meguiar's line is the way you can combine a glaze, sealant, and wax in just the way you did; all their products are compatible that way.
Click to expand...



Thanks, Accumulator.
 
shelpdoggSVT said:
Nimble....thanks again for the input. Just deciding what to use on certain finishes is mind numbing when I read so many threads about what people use.....the different set ups and self-concocted mixtures. I'm really just wanting to learn the basics.

A lot of feedback on this thread has cleared up some misconceptions between the two.
Click to expand...



No problem, we're all still learning around the pros here, haha. If I could give you one bit of advice, it's just to do the research but don't complicate things too much. Haha easier said than done. :heelclick If you want to make things "easy" the following list contains pretty much foolproof great products.



Compounds

-Optimum Compound/Hyper Compound

-Poor Boy's SSR 3 or SSR 2.5



Polishes

-Optimum Polish

-Poor Boy's SSR 1

-Poor Boy's Polish with Carnauba or Sealent (depending on last step product, lsp)



Glazes

-ClearKote Red Moose or Vanilla Moose (these are great at producing depth and gloss)



Carnauba Waxes

-Poor Boy's Natty's Blue Paste

-Collinite 476S Paste

-Collinite 845 Insulator liquid

-ClearKote Carnauba liquid



Sealents

-Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett, wipe on or trigger (use Prime as a "primer" to the surface)

-Duragloss #105 (use #601 as a "primer" to the surface)



Other products I like are Meg's Gold Class wash, Duragloss's red colored wash is great too. I like Cobra Microfiber products personally, Autogeek.net sells them. Pick up a 12 pack of Cobra's "all purpose" MF's (these are great for waterless washes, removing clay lube, quick detaliling, etc), and they also have a 4 pack special of 2 ea Cobra "Deluxe" in both small and large sizes (these are VERY plush and great at removing your lsp's). I use four stars detailing clay, but have also used Zaino and even the OTC Meg's/Mother's packages, and they all seem to work ok for me. A lot of guys swear by Sonus green clay here. You can buy it at autopia's autocare site for good prices. Good quick detailer's include PB's Spray and Gloss, ClearKote's Quik Shine, and Werkstatt has a good one too.
 
I'll be trying the Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze (FTG) for the first time this spring after FPII and before FMJ on my black BMW. The polish eliminates almost all the marring, but the glaze will deal with the infinitesimal amount that's left, and the FMJ is said to bond on top of the FTG. I'll see soon enough how true that is.

Nick
 
No problem, we're all still learning around the pros here, haha. If I could give you one bit of advice, it's just to do the research but don't complicate things too much. Haha easier said than done.
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I know what you mean....that is what I have been doing for a few months on this site. I used to just wash/clay/cleaner wax/carnuba....and be done with it. The results were good, but I want to use products that will start providing a bit more protection.....such as glazes and sealants.....better products too.

Thanks for the list Nimble.... I keep trying to update/add to what I have. I've already spent $500+ at Autogeek in the past two months (love that site). My wife just shakes her head:rolleyes: , but I know she's happy when the Murano gets the treatment.

I have at this point;

Optimum Compund

Pinnacle ASR

Pinnacle AFP

Pinnacle Souveran Liquid Wax

Poorboys EXP

Klasse AIO

Megs NXT Tech Wax

Mothers Cleaner/Wax

303, armor all....etc..

and all kinds of MF towels...(several Cobra MF)



What I would like to get after help in this thread;

Optimum Polish -(need another type of polish)

Vanilla Moose Glaze - (I've heard this stuff is awesome)

DACP - (people seem to like this one for problem areas)

FMJ - (must have FMJ!!)

Another good wax like the ones mentioned below

-Poor Boy's Natty's Blue Paste

-Collinite 476S Paste

-Collinite 845 Insulator liquid

-ClearKote Carnauba liquid



Now I just need to learn (from here and personal experience) what to use and in what order. With the help of all of you, I am well on my way..:thx
 
From what I understand, the ClearKote Red is actually a bit 'better' at producing shine and filling then the vanilla, and if you buy either one, you have to try their liquid Carnauba. Note: Not the "Moose wax", that's a cleaner wax. Then the Collinite 476 paste is pretty inexpensive, so I'd grab one of those. Of course at less than $15 bucks, the Natty's blue sure does look AND smell nice. hehe



I'm not as familiar with those Pinnacle ASR/AFP combo, but aren't they like a polish? Or more like a glaze? I know Pinnacle sways more towards glazes/waxes though. The PB's SSR 2.5/1/and PwC are a nice, inexpensive trio or light compound, polish, and light polish.
 
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