A new trick I learned!

J

JustinR32

New member
I learned this from watching Mike Phillips' video that he made for Show Car Garage, and it is so good I have to share it with everyone.



When using a G-100 or PC to apply a wax, instead of carrying your wax bottle around the car with you as you work, put some wax on the pad and press it against the panel avery couple feet, renewing the wax on the pad as necessary. When you're done, but before you start, you'll have the car covered with little rings of wax on every panel. Then, as you work, you can go from panel to panel picking up the bead of wax that you've already applied, and not have to constantly stop and apply wax to the pad, or look around for where you last left the bottle!



I love this idea, it's a real work saver that fits into a part of the job that I didn't think could be compacted.





Tom
 
As long as the product doesn't dry out or is hard to remove, i do the whole vehicle or half with little beads of product. Optimum works well. NXT is another.
 
Naw, it won't dry unless you're working in the sun; since you're using a machine, it couldn't take more than 10 minutes to do the whole car, even if you're doing a Suburban.





Tom
 
I do it all the time with nxt or a sealant liquid....and sometimes with optimum car polish if its not too hot out...saves a few minutes....



another tip is when using a product that doesnt dry fast like optimum is to polish in sections, but wipe off in wholes....as in polish the hood in sections like normal, but leave it until the whole hood is done and wipe up the hood all at once...this will ensure you arent polishing the same spot over and over, and saves time switching from polisher to wipe up to polisher to wipe up....
 
Mosca said:
I learned this from watching Mike Phillips' video that he made for Show Car Garage, and it is so good I have to share it with everyone.



When using a G-100 or PC to apply a wax, instead of carrying your wax bottle around the car with you as you work, put some wax on the pad and press it against the panel avery couple feet, renewing the wax on the pad as necessary. When you're done, but before you start, you'll have the car covered with little rings of wax on every panel. Then, as you work, you can go from panel to panel picking up the bead of wax that you've already applied, and not have to constantly stop and apply wax to the pad, or look around for where you last left the bottle!



I love this idea, it's a real work saver that fits into a part of the job that I didn't think could be compacted.





Tom
Click to expand...

I have this video as well. I don't recall him recommending you cover the entire car with rings just your immediate work area.
 
Regarding the DVD... I wish they would have picked a modern clear coat/base coat car to perform swirl removal on because those swirls came out WAY too easily compared with either of my cars, especially for only using M80. It was sure nice to see a pro in action, though. Kind of reaffirmed the things I thought I was doing right, showed some things I was doing wrong, and gave me an idea of how much pressure/arm speed to use with the PC. Pretty cool.
 
Mikeyc said:
I have this video as well. I don't recall him recommending you cover the entire car with rings just your immediate work area.
Click to expand...



He did it with the 80 early, and then the whole car later with NXT. I watched it on fast forward with the sound off, so maybe he didn't say it, but he did it.





Tom
 
In the video I have, he only did that per panel not the entire car.



I usually just do ring dabs on ever panel and work from there, not the entire car.
 
Aw, now I had to go back and watch it at normal speed. I was wrong. Son of a gun, that would be a good idea though. I can't see why not, on a mid-70s day working in a garage, that it can't be done. I'd put a little bit more product in each ring so it maintains its moisture. I'm going to try it, on something big like my dad's Trailblazer, and report back.





Tom
 
Keep in mind, anything "wet" on the surface is susceptible to dust adhesion. I wouldnt go any farther then the panel Im working on with this technique. Now if your in a garage with the doors closed, well, different story.....but the way the weather has been in So Cal, that hasnt been an option. I like to take my hi pressure nozzle and blow the dust off the car several times while polishing or sealing.
 
Dry wax = swirls. Detailing on a hot day or in the sun makes wax dry faster. One time one of my detailers was working on a faded black Ford Tempo and spread/splattered wax around the the entire car. After buffing half the car, the places where the wax was stained though the oxidation and into the finish and created twice as much work for him to level it out.

When I buff a vehicle, I spray clay lube on each panel I buff to restimulate the drying polish on my pad. It allows you to work safer and longer if needed.
 
David Fermani said:
Dry wax = swirls. Detailing on a hot day or in the sun makes wax dry faster. One time one of my detailers was working on a faded black Ford Tempo and spread/splattered wax around the the entire car. After buffing half the car, the places where the wax was stained though the oxidation and into the finish and created twice as much work for him to level it out.

When I buff a vehicle, I spray clay lube on each panel I buff to restimulate the drying polish on my pad. It allows you to work safer and longer if needed.
Click to expand...





I don't think anyone is advocating it when detailing outside. I agree that one is asking for extra headache when outside.



What I do is I spray water on the panels.



I am not sure if it is old school or not, but after buffing an area you can go over it again with just water. Helps to eliminate holograms.
 
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