A cool project......FINALLY!

D

dengelson

New member
Yesterday My Truck got the full Klasse treatment. It was a big job and all was going well until the last step of wipeing off the SG. What a royal PITA! I thought I was going to dent some of the panels from pressing so hard while trying to wipe off the SG.

I used a PC and a yellow foam pad to put down the AIO which seemed to work really well as it cleaned off all the little specs and fallout then wiped off easily. I used a soft grey foam pad to put down the SG and I really worked at to get thin layers of SG because I read here that would give the best results. Well I think the reason that you are supposed to wait 24 hours between coats of SG is to keep your arms from falling off at the shoulder! btw I did use a little QD on the really stuburn areas and it helped a little bit.

Will a second coat of SG be significantly easier to remove than the first?
 
Short Cut,



Why don't you try using your PC and a terry or MF bonnet to buff off the KSG? It will save your arm.



BTW... your truck looks great!



db
 
I was certainly considering that. I did buy two MF bonnets for the PC. My concern for doing the whole truck that way was that the bonnet would only hold so much removed residue. This truck has about an acre of sheet metal so I didn't think two bonnets would be enough.



I think what I'll do if I apply a second coat of SG is to use a towel for the main wipe down then use the MF bonnet for the stuburn areas.



I'm hoping that a second coating of SG will be easier to remove. :confused:
 
Did you spritz a drop of FI or water on the MF to aid in removing the SG? It makes it much easier to remove.... I don't think I would or could have removed it all without doing that.



H
 
A damp MT works great at removing SG. Just run the towel under water and wring it out really well so that iit is damp. The SG will wipe of very easily using this method, there is really no buffing required. Then follow up with a cotton towel and presto, your done. :)
 
Yep, a damp MT is a good alternative compared to rubbing the paint really hard. That will definately cause some micro-marring...



Or just use the PC!
 
you can even spritz the panel with water and buff with the MT



if you're really into it, breath on the SG haze and be amazed just how easily it comes off with as little moisture as breath
 
I detailed my Nana's (Mom's mom) Lexus ES300 today. I really wanted to do a job that would last because I don't get the chance to do her car very often. I decided to use Klasse AIO with the PC on a white foam pad then I wanted to try something different from last time. This time I used a Viper MF applicator to apply the SG by hand and that made a <strong class='bbc'>huge[/b] differnce! The SG was so much easier to remove with my 3M MF Cloths this time because the coat of SG laid down by the Viper was much thinner than what I achieved using the grey foam PC applicator. I hope to get another shot at washing and applying a second coat of SG around Christmas that should do it for awhile since it is a garaged and infrequently used car. The shine was incredible and my Nana kept saying the paint looks new, it looks new! You know what? She was 100% correct that combination really worked fantastic.

Hmm I think I'll Klasse the minivan next this stuff is great! :bounce

<em class='bbc'>click on any picture for more info[/i]

http://store4.yimg.com/I/classic-motoring_1657_481726 http://store4.yimg.com/I/classic-motoring_1657_2346391 http://store4.yimg.com/I/classic-motoring_1657_2018042
 
I was diappointed with SG and my PC (both applying and removing with it). Did the Showroom Lincoln wet MF towel thing. Huge difference, recommend that.
 
As I also have an acre of sheetmetal my suggestion to you would be to use Zaino, seriously. I simply don't understand the need to have to wear your arms out to remove a polish. I'm a Zaino user and can literally dust the residue off my truck. No effort whatsoever. To apply and remove the product from the whole vehicle takes less than 2 hours and that includes beverage breaks along the way. If you don't want to go the Zaino route try some Nufinish. I think it goes on and comes off just as easy and the shine is almost as good.

I guess my point in all this is if it takes more than a light pass to remove a product it's taking too much effort. Not to mention the more elbow grease you put into your paint the more swirls are gonna start appearing.

Happy detailing!
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by CHEVYZ71 [/i]
<strong class='bbc'> my suggestion to you would be to use Zaino...
I guess my point in all this is if it takes more than a light pass to remove a product it's taking too much effort.[/b]</blockquote>
Thanks bud. I may try Zaino next I've read some great reports about it but right now I have two nearly full bottles of Klasse to use when I need a polymer sealant. If you will note in my previous post I just needed to find the right way to work with Klasse. Using the Viper MF applicator and applying the SG by hand made a huge difference. The product wiped right off. It was much easier and I didn't even need to use a moist towel or QD. It's a good thing I found this out though because if I had the same problem removing SG as I did with my truck that would have been my last use of Klasse. How it is I'm really pleased with my second use of the product and now I can see why so many people love Klasse so much because I do too. :bounce
 
It makes it much easier to remove. Klasse is water soluble though, so I wouldn't use THAT much water for removal till the polymer is cured.



NU finish goes on easy and wipes off easy, but makes a mess.......in my opinion. A lot of residue and dust, and try getting it off of rubber trim!
 
Glad it worked out. I too was diappointed at first, but now I love it. Was going to try Zaino on the Vette, but think Blackfire will get a try first.



So many products, so few cars.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by steez [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>does the wet MF trick work with anything else? ie: IHG/BLITZ/AIO ? [/b]</blockquote>
Those products already wipe off pretty easy so it might work but probably isn't necessary. What I have found with Klasse is that it is of the utmost importance to apply a thin, thin coat. If the coat goes down too thick and saucey looking then it will be very hard to buff off after it has set. Then you will need moisture to remove the SG.

Although initially I tried to put down a thin coat with the grey pad on the PC it wasn't nearly as thin as I was able to achieve using the MF applicator. I think the PC worked great with the AIO but my best advice is to apply the SG by hand and preferably with a MF applicator.
 
Unfortunately my area is not a place where people care for their cars. I look longingly at other posts of detailed exotics and other nice cars that are getting full corrections and wish occasionally I could get a cool project. Most of my work is trashed minivans and farm trucks. I'm thinking of changing my name to ROCKY MOUNTAIN MOBILE RESTORATION, as all my vehicles are truly thrashed. Don't get me wrong, I am happy to be working, it's just I feel like I went to a french cooking school and I am flipping burgers at McDonalds!!

Sorry, I had to vent....it can be frustrating at times. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:


Anyway I finally got a cool project and was psyched to do it and wanted to share some pics. Anyone who has done any welding has heard of Lincoln Electric. They are the largest welding manufacturer. This was one of their show trucks, I buffed out the whole thing, polished all the aluminum and even detailed all the display welders. Anyway it came out great! I didn't get any before pics as I wanted to hustle to make sure I finished as I only had 1 day.






lincolnside.jpg




check out the reflection of my ladder in this one!!

lincolndisplayside.jpg


lincolnrear.jpg


DSCN2454.jpg


lincolnfront.jpg


lincolndisplay32.jpg


lincolndisplay2.jpg


lincolndisplay1.jpg
 
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