96 Black Vette & Poorboys??

n1976jmk

n1976jmk

New member
hello all!!!

I have a customers 96 black vette i am detailing on saturday which is garaged kept and it's a show car only for him and comes out ocasionally on the weekends(nice weather), he has kept it nice, for 3 yrs owning it and only 40k miles... But waxes with old cotton t-shirts...aaarrrggghhhh, many micro scracthes,, but i am coming to rescue... and pulling out the good stuff i usually keep for myself, i plan on using clay, ssr 2.5, ssr 1, ex to end, and maybe nattys depending if he wants it.

my question is the 96 vette, a dual stage paint, base coat/clear coat and is it ok to use the above products on a fiberglass body???

i plan on doing the ssr 2.5 and 1 with the pc set to 5.5 and going slow with moderare pressure, green propel for ssr 2.5 and and maybe the ssr 2.5 with orange propel pad in the couple bad spots if the green pad doesnt do it, blue propel pad for ssr 1

and i guess ex by hand??? no pc use with ex, right??

also, is ex a carnuba and polymer syntheic blend? or just carnuba??

is this years vette a hard or soft paint, thin paint?, or should i not have a problem getting all the micro scrathes out from his bad washing and waxing techniques with the above techniques??

all, input is greatly appreciated!!!!

and thankyou so much to all!!!! in advance again
 
the Vette is clearcoated and very hard...removing all the swirls and micromarring will be quite an adventure ....go aggressive and plan on a couple of passes.
Vette's come with enough clear to really work the finish. Unfortunately during the mid -90's they did a lot a finish repairing at the factory and often re-cleared over the polishing they did, which often left cobwebbing under the clear.
EX can be applied with a finishing pad for the first coat, I'd recommend using it at about 1-2 for spreading evenly..wait an hour before removing and then apply a second coat by hand ....adding Natty's to it will bring out a great gloss and also help to hide any fine cobwebbing that won't be coming out.
 
Poorboy would be the authority on this one as far as ratios go but yes its a polymer sealant with an added carnuba that gives darker cars that "pop"..
 
Using that stuff on the fiberglass is just fine. I've used my PC with SSR2.5 on Dad's vette multiple times.
 
Well, you said that you would appreciate all input so here's my $.02...
Are you sure that you want to tackle a detail on such an expensive car as this man's corvette? It seems like you're guessing at every step of the detail about which products to use and how to use them and I'd hate to see you end up paying for a new paint job on his car to the tune of $2,000 to $3,000. That much money out of your pocket would buy an awful lot of detailing chemicals for you to learn more about the trade and become a more experienced detailer.

If it were my call, I would hold off doing his vette and practice on a few less expensive vehicles first until you become more familiar with the products you use and also develop your own system and techniques that you know work for you and give good results. I'm not trying to discourage you, but I'd rather remind you of what could happen before you wind up emptying your bank account just to try and make some guy's car nice and shiney again. Anyway, I wish you the best of luck and hope that everything turns out okay whatever you decide to do. Thanking you in advance for thanking me in advance. lol
 
Vettes are fun to do. Make sure you have a stool or something to sit on though, they sit pretty low, and you dont want to hurt your back while polishing. I have a Creeper that folds up into a seat with back support (and has wheels so I can roll around) when I polish low cars (mine is down 2 inches from factory ride height).
 
Just a comment.
You won't be working on fiberglass, you will be working on paint just like on most any other GM.
Actually, the body isn't fiberglass either. It was some type of composite plastic. I think it was called by the acronym of SMP which may have stood for sheet molded plastic.:dunno

Relax, it's just another Chevy.:)

Charles
 
a 96 vette isnt that expensive anyway. As long as your relaxed and take your time you should be alright.
 
CharlesW said:
Just a comment.
You won't be working on fiberglass, you will be working on paint just like on most any other GM.
Actually, the body isn't fiberglass either. It was some type of composite plastic. I think it was called by the acronym of SMP which may have stood for sheet molded plastic.:dunno

Relax, it's just another Chevy.:)

Charles
Click to expand...

:yeah ...

it doesn't matter what is under the paint / clearcoat:hippi
 
well,

i finished the vette today and steve it turned out great... just to let a few know that it really was a HArd hard paint, hardest ive done. i tried ssr 2.5 with green propel to start, and didnt work to well so went with ssr 2.5 and orange propel pad and it seem to do the trick after to seperate passes, and then the ssr 2.5 with the green pad to follow up to get the small amount of hazing off, then ssr 1 with green pad and ex to end with pc at 1.5.

great results and got rid of about 90% defects. took 8 hours with claying and body only, no wheels, no interior, or glass, i am sore, but worth 175 bucks and now hes got three other vettes in his club lined up for me...!!!

ps- i did the car at his place and he had a lift in the garage and made life alot easier!!
 
Vettes are FRP (fiberglasss reinforced plastic) unibodies. This process allows the body of the car to be extremely strong and light while adding rigidity to the body. If you see any fibers at all you have done something very wrong.
 
n1976jmk said:
well,

i finished the vette today and steve it turned out great... just to let a few know that it really was a HArd hard paint, hardest ive done. i tried ssr 2.5 with green propel to start, and didnt work to well so went with ssr 2.5 and orange propel pad and it seem to do the trick after to seperate passes, and then the ssr 2.5 with the green pad to follow up to get the small amount of hazing off, then ssr 1 with green pad and ex to end with pc at 1.5.

great results and got rid of about 90% defects. took 8 hours with claying and body only, no wheels, no interior, or glass, i am sore, but worth 175 bucks and now hes got three other vettes in his club lined up for me...!!!

ps- i did the car at his place and he had a lift in the garage and made life alot easier!!
Click to expand...


Yes , I told you they can be quite a bit of work, but it sounds like you achieved a very good result . if the owner was happy and you got a few referals it definitely paid off:hippi
 
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