92 Super charged MUSTANG detail*PICS*

EBPcivicsi

EBPcivicsi

GOT PREP?
Yesterday I had the pleasure of detailing this fine beast of a car. The owner of the car does custom work on Mustangs as well as other performance cars. You can see his work here www.speedofsoundllc.com, the guage pods are AWESOME!!! They had a piece of Ford vinyl sent to the factory to match the grain. They look OEM, the aluminum bezels are CNC'ed in house, very cool operation.



The car will be in St.Louis on Thusday for the Ford World Challenge. It will be in the company's booth.





Anyway, on to the detail.



The car was really clean on the inside with brand new carpet, the dash just needed to be dusted and the everything needed a quick vac. This is great for me because that means that I can spend more time on the paint!!!!



I tackled the motor first using a costco APC 10:1 and an assortment of brushes(EZ detail, etc). I then dressed the motor with Meguiars #40 cut 50/50 with water.

Before:



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After:

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I then washed the car with Meguiars NXT soap. After the car was clean, I mixed up another bucket of suds and commenced to clay the entire vehicle. The paint was base coat clear ALL original, any idea about the green on the clay?



This is what the bar looked like when I was done!!!!

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I then turned my attention to removing defects, the car was moderately swirled and really need to be polished.



Here are some of the defects: Notice the lack of depth and reflection on the paint. Also notice the spider webbing or marring/swirls.

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Full shot before, notice the dullness of the paint:



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The first thing that I noticed about the paint was that it was really dirty. I used Meguiars medallion paint cleaner first in order to allow my subsequent steps to be more effective. I applied the MMPC with the cyclo and orange polishing pads.
 
I had a 92 Ford Bronco and it did not have clear coat.

One step paint.

(If thats the case, then thats why the clay had some green in it)
 
Now that the paint was clean my swirl removers would be more effective. I next used Meguiars #83 with the rotary polisher in order to level the paint. I then switched machines back to the cyclo and used the same product (#83) with orange polishing pads. Next I used my porter cable polisher with a meguiars polishing pad to apply #80 speed glaze. Now that the paint was swirl free I started to work on the âہ“wowâ€Â� factor of the detail. I applied Klasse AIO with the PC and a polishing pad in order to provide a good base for other lsp's. I then applied Meguiars Gold class (new formula) to the car and waited 20 minutes before removing. After removing I applied one layer of liquid souveran carnauba wax. All products removed with microfiber.



Cliff notes:

Wash

Clay

Meguiars medallion paint cleaner cyclo/orange pads

Meguiars #83 dual action cleaner polish with rotary and a polishing pad

Meguiars #83 dacp with the cyclo/ orange pads

Meguiars #80 speed glaze with PC and polishing pad

Klasse AIO with PC/polishing pad

Meguiars gold class with PC/finishing pad

Liquid sourveran by hand



After:

Notice that the reflections are MUCH deeper and that all marring has been removed.

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Used up quite a few pads. J

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Also, Meguiars original formula endurance on the tires. The wheels got AIO, #20. Enjoy!!
 
jonw440 said:
I had a 92 Ford Bronco and it did not have clear coat.

One step paint.

(If thats the case, then thats why the clay had some green in it)
Click to expand...



Yeah, the paint was base coat clear though????
 
Was there any touch ups anywere? It might have been overspray.

WOW at any rate, that came out beutiful!!

Nice work. How long did it take you?
 
^ I though about touch ups as well, but the green paint showed up in more than one section throughout the car, it really wasn't isolated in one area. :nixweiss The paint *seemed* to be all original and the owner claimed that it was.???



Thanks for the kind words, I arrived on the scene at 9:00 a.m. and left at 2:15.
 
I love those LX's. My friend had one in 1992 and it was a BEAST! It looked like garabage though compared to that!



Awesome work :xyxthumbs How long did the exterior take?



Why did you do so many polishing steps? From the first pic, the surface defects didn't seem that bad.



Whatever, the reason, that green is now like liquid, very deep, darker and incredible looking :) :xyxthumbs



Nice to see Gold Class in the detail! Is it the new version?
 
Spilchy said:
I love those LX's. My friend had one in 1992 and it was a BEAST! It looked like garabage though compared to that!



Awesome work :xyxthumbs How long did the exterior take?



Why did you do so many polishing steps? From the first pic, the surface defects didn't seem that bad.



Whatever, the reason, that green is now like liquid, very deep, darker and incredible looking :) :xyxthumbs



Nice to see Gold Class in the detail! Is it the new version?
Click to expand...



Hehe, you must have read the cliff's notes. ;) :D



The exterior was about the full five hours, the interior only took about 20 minutes tops.



The marring was much worse in person, but the paint was reall dirty. As I clayed certain sections, the water was actually turning brown.



At each step I backed the car out and inspected. I used the MPPC first because I felt that it allowed me to better evaluate the paint.



I used the DACP because I felt that with the rotary it would remove the majority of the marring.



I then followed with the DACP on the cyclo to clean up any buffer swirls, there were a few a front quarter panel. :o



I used the #80 becasue what detail would be complete without it. :) Honestly I love the way #80 finishes down and leaves the finish very wet.



I used the AIO becasue at that point I didn't know if I was going to use a sealant or not. I hadn't decided and did not yet know the customer's goals for durability.



The LSP's were chosen purely for the quality of their looks on dark metallics. I toyed with topping with TS instead of LS, but it had been a while since I used the LS. The customer was not too concerned with durability, so I used what are IMO "beauty" waxes. :D
 
Wow, awesome work! Looks good for 13 year old paint. You are definitely a great detailer, not only judging by your work, but by the fact that you did a 7 step exterior detail (wash - LSP) in under 5 hours! I know the Fox bodies arent arent huge cars but still impressive work!



Any idea on dyno numbers, oe ET's in the 1/4 mile?
 
LightngSVT said:
Wow, awesome work! Looks good for 13 year old paint. You are definitely a great detailer, not only judging by your work, but by the fact that you did a 7 step exterior detail (wash - LSP) in under 5 hours! I know the Fox bodies arent arent huge cars but still impressive work!



Any idea on dyno numbers, oe ET's in the 1/4 mile?
Click to expand...



Thanks, the lack of interior work really helped me out. You are also right about the size, once you get the hood done, it is smooth sailing. The rear wing was a bit difficult to buff with the rotary becasue of the concaved shape, but I made due.



No idea on numbers, I know he just added about 100 lbs of audio before the show, so minus a few tenths there. The clutch was so heavy that it almost made my leg twitch when moving it. :eek: :D
 
IMO, a HUGE transformation.





While it could've been fine in many eyes after just claying, you truly brought back the depth, clarity, gloss, wetness, and flake pop to that paint.



Those rims are amazingly clean as well. What did you use to cleanse?



Great work Joe :up
 
^ Thanks guys!!



Sean, I used a locally available A2Z type product called "magnum." It is a non-acid, foaming wheel cleaner that I get locally, awesome product, but high alkeline. You just have to be careful with it and not allow it to dry. I pay $35 for a five gallon container and it dilutes 2:1. :eek:



I also agitated behind the wheel an EZ detail brush, the face was washed with a MF mitt. I followed up with AIO and #20.



Thanks again!
 
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