9 years old car. A little help needed (Long)

edschwab1

edschwab1

New member
Intro
I am working a 95 Subaru Legacy wagon with OEM BC/CC paint, which is dry, grippy , has mild car wash scratching (swirls) and mild to medium oxidation. The Legacy does not show signs of being cared for other than an occasional wash. The problems, I am experiencing are difficulty removing/ buffing MPPC (always has been tough to remove, but does the job well), claying (before MPPC, after MPPC, after DACP) using Quik Detailer and using DACP (which is gumming up slightly). All the products mentioned previously performed as after each the paint showed signs of improving. After using DACP the paint became easier to work with, which I think is most of the oxidation was removed, as was some bonded contaminants.

Process
1. Wash with D21
2. Clean with MPPC (M9716) with M8006.
Difficult to remove as always, but worked as always.
3. Clay CM Blue
Difficult, stopped, as clay did not budge no matter the amount of Quik Detailer used. Essentially the clay stuck to the paint and left a clay streak.
4. DACP (M8332)
Applied using PC with a brand new CMA/LC Yellow cutting pad. The new CMA/LC yellow cutting pad does have less cutting power when compared to older CMA/LC Yellow cutting pads circa spring 2002.
5. Clay
See comments for clay above.
6. 3M PI-III MG
CMA/LC Orange and PC on a quarter of the hood
7. Speed Glaze #80
CMA/LC Orange on a quarter of the hood
8. Menzerna Final polish
Applied m8006 and PC
9. ColorX
Applied using M9006 and PC
10. GC
CMA/LC Finish pad because may bottle of NXT went AWOL.

Questions/Comments
I am unable to find the post from Mike Philips posted (which was possibly on show car garage or art of polish) regarding the use of #7 before working older paint. What is Mike's process for using #7? Further, I was wondering if this would work in my situation and if #81 could be substituted?

Would body scrub, scratch X, DC step #1 or another brand of pre-wax cleaner be used as a substitute for MCCP in my process?

Has anyone experience this before? Any advice or things to try would be helpful.

I am expecting delivery of a rotary in the coming week. What should I try using the rotary?

I plan on forgoing the clay this time and clay during my next detail. Claying will happen if I find something which will make the clay bar glide over the paint.

On the half of hood, which I experimented on looked good, but good is not good enough. I would like the paint to look better, but for this car an improvement is a good thing. I am not expecting a miracle, as my magic wand is broking. Would have done more, but I ran out of time.

The two quarters looked noticeably different (to me anyhow) with the PI-III side looking slightly better than the quarter with #80. I still think #80 is a great product and will continue to use.

I plan on testing Menzerna IP, Hi-Temp Light cut (I have used and like but not on this car), possibly some Poorboy’s products, other 3M liquid abrasives and various wax and sealant combos on the roof. For the combos I am testing more for appearance and slightly for durability. Further I am going to put many layers on over the next couple of months to prepare for the winter. Once I am done with my car, then come two car and three motorcycles (waxed for winter storage).

Pictures
Pictures so everyone know what the surface looks like. The white spots are chips or dust. Once the car is complete I will post before and after pictures.
Picture #1 is after steps 1-5.
1553hood_halogen_lights.jpg


Picture #2 after all steps.
1553rainbow-resized-2.jpg


Eric
 
You might want to read over AWD330s post titled * Rotary Newb finds*>>LINK<< I think you'll find it helpful . A car so neglected like the one your working on needs a rotory and wool pads. The PC isn't quite up to the challenge of your Legacy .. Good luck and let use know how it turns out .
 
Eric,

It sounds like there is "something" on that paint that shouldn't be on there, and it is making it gummy? :dunno Usually MPPP will get it off, and the rest is easy?

I'm not sure of the process that MP posted on the use of #7, but here is the normal process with #7:
Apply a very light coat in circular motions.
Allow it to haze.
Use a good "Cotton" towel to "lightly" cut through the #7 haze.
Then come back with a fresh towel, and buff lightly.

Yes, the #81 can be substituted, and I would recommend it. The #81 has a very tiny amount of abrasive in it. As a matter of fact, for your situation, I would recommend that you apply a light coat of #81 with a finishing pad with the PC set on 3.5 - 4, and remove similar to #7.

Next, when you get the rotary, your problems will probably be solved, provided you've used a rotary before. I would go immediately to DACP, or SSR2.5 and cut some of the gummy crap (whatever it is) out of that paint. Of course, if you are going to use the rotary on it, you may want to skip the #81/#7 step. I believe the MP theory is the #81/#7 puts some oils back into the paint.................. not sure if that's the case or not?

Good luck, and keep us posted.
 
Thanks for the help guys.

Boss,
Yes the MP theory is that #7/#81 put oils back in the paint.


During the few minutes which I played with my new rotary, I found it to be a very powerful tool. I am also surprised how fast products back down when using the rotary as compared to the eternity the PC takes.


Eric
 
That's almost what I had to deal with on that Buick I did. I used a wool pad and #84 after I wet sanded. That doesn't look like it's scratched too bad, just lots of swirls, so you don't need to wet sand. After that I'd use some #83 with yellow foam/rotory and #82 with green foam and either rotory or PC. Finishing steps are up to you. If I wasn't so booked this weekend I'd offer to come up and help.
 
Shotime,
Thanks for offer to help and advice. I have one LC and two Makita wool pads, but I am not sure if the pads are cutting or polishing wool. I will have to try each pad and see which works best for my situation. What type or brand of wool pad do you recommend? Also, I am pretty sure I can I substitute 3M PI-III RC for #84 Compound Power Cleaner. If #84 is better I will purchase a bottle of #84 and anything else I may need. Never hurts to have more options available.

I am glad to hear business is going well for you.

Eric
 
I used MPPC and Clay Magic blue clay for a few years on my 1997 Subaru 2.5GT. I never experienced the issue you're describing about the clay being stuck to the paint. I used Meg's Gold Class Shampoo or #00 Hi Tech Wash as my clay lube.

I can understand having some contaminants on the paint initially, but the MPPC and DACP should have removed those for you. I wonder if the clay itself was problematic? :dunno

Subaru paint is very thin and chips easily, so exercise caution with the rotary.

[Edit: Fixed typo in second paragraph. I meant MPPC, but I originally typed MPPP.]
 
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awd330,
Thanks for the advice. The last time I detailed a Subaru I was warned by people about their paint being chip prone. On the that car I did not have problem with claying. I may puchase a Mother's clay kit to see if the clay is the problem.

Any pictures of your GT? What color was your GT?

Eric
 
edschwab1 said:
awd330,
Thanks for the advice. The last time I detailed a Subaru I was warned by people about their paint being chip prone. On the that car I did not have problem with claying. I may puchase a Mother's clay kit to see if the clay is the problem.

Any pictures of your GT? What color was your GT?

Eric
Click to expand...
My GT was a white sedan. I don't have any digital images of my GT, only 35mm film prints. I gave the car to my parents when I got my BMW, and they are still driving it today. The car was incredibly reliable, but it almost seemed like the paint would chip if you stared at it too hard. I plan to detail it when I visit my folks next month. If I remember to bring my camera, I will take some pictures.
 
awd330 said:
The car was incredibly reliable, but it almost seemed like the paint would chip if you stared at it too hard.
Click to expand...
I have heard this from other Subie owners. Also, subie owner like to think justing holding a pebble in front of the car will make the paint chip.

Reliablity is one of the reason I purchased the 95 Legacy. I plan on many driving many of miles before replacing the legacy.

Eric
 
edschwab1 said:
I have heard this from other Subie owners. Also, subie owner like to think justing holding a pebble in front of the car will make the paint chip.

Reliablity is one of the reason I purchased the 95 Legacy. I plan on many driving many of miles before replacing the legacy.

Eric
Click to expand...
Pick up some of the OEM touchup paint. You'll need it. :rolleyes:

Good luck with the Legacy. It should be a great car for your Rochester winters. :)
 
I just finished a 10 yr old burgundy red Olds. I used the PC, a polish pad, ran it on top speed and used Poorboys SSR 2.5 and in some spots the SSR 3. All but the deep scratches are gone and it looks great. Finished it with Pro Polish and EX. Started with wash and clay of course.
 
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