4" pad on PC with counterweight fights no weight Ok

U

ultrajim49

New member
:up

I've been reading the archives on Turtlewax and I understand that it's not a concourswinning wax.

But, are there serious con's about TW?

As far as I could trace it,it's the only wax available in Belgium.I could , and maybe shall, order via the Net,but the shippingcosts are rather high.

I bought the Emerold series of TW (everything...)and I'm trying it out on my genuine Japanese rice grinder (Yam.Diversion XJ600S),

and the results are (as far as I can be my own judge) amazing.



Carauba waxes need about 60-65°F to be able to bond,do synthetic waxes need that Temp allso?(It is not mentioned on the bottle Superhardshell from TW)?



:confused:
 
Any wax is always better than no wax. Use what you can get and keep up on it as the gloss and protection seem to fade. Lack of duribility seems to be the main reason not to go TW, you make up for it by waxing more often. Hope that helps you out. Happy Detailing over there in Europe :)
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by cvcaelen [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>As far as I could trace it,it's the only wax available in Belgium.I could , and maybe shall, order via the Net,but the shippingcosts are rather high.[/b]</blockquote>
cvcaelen,

You may like to give a call to Meguiar's Europe. The Europe office is in the Netherlands.

Meguiar's Europe
Laan der Verenigde Naties 40
3314 DA Dordrecht, Holland
Andre De Groot; Joost Nagtegaal
Phone: +31-78-6210268
Fax: 31-78-6166-406
Email: Info@meguiarseurope.nl
Happy Detailing

Deckard
 
Steve is right on. If you're happy with Turtle Wax Emerald Series, then by all means use it. Since its not too durable, it would be a good idea to apply a coat every 4-6 weeks. Happy detailing.
 
Thanks,



untill now I can say this about TW:they claim it goes on and off easy.

My experience is that it goes on easy, but it's picky about the cure time and temperature.You need to experiment a little to get it right,but once you get it right it's easy off.

They claim no residue, well, there is a little ,more like fine dust.After waxing a wipe with the MF takes care of that.

:p
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by cvcaelen [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I'm trying it out on my genuine Japanese rice grinder (Yam.Diversion XJ600S), and the results are (as far as I can be my own judge) amazing.[/b]</blockquote>
Can you elaborate on what you mean by "rice grinder"?
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Intermezzo330I [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>

Can you elaborate on what you mean by "rice grinder"? [/b]</blockquote>
This is a Yamaha XJ600S

yxj600s7.jpg
 
The top speed of my Diversion is 200Km/h, this is chrono!

My Divvy is slightly modifyed:K&N airfilter, new set of carburator-parts,new exhaust.Originaly the top speed was 176Km/h(chrono)



A rice grinder is what Harly drivers comonly call all Japanese bikes,

you know,rice ,those little white eatable things that usualy Chinese or Japanese folks eat.



Sometimes another word for a "Racebanana" is "powergrinder",

because of the sound they make at aprox 10.000RPM.





;)
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by cvcaelen [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>The top speed of my Diversion is 200Km/h, this is chrono!
My Divvy is slightly modifyed:K&N airfilter, new set of carburator-parts,new exhaust.Originaly the top speed was 176Km/h(chrono)

A rice grinder is what Harly drivers comonly call all Japanese bikes,
you know,rice ,those little white eatable things that usualy Chinese or Japanese folks eat.

Sometimes another word for a "Racebanana" is "powergrinder",
because of the sound they make at aprox 10.000RPM.
;) [/b]</blockquote>
in america it's more often referred to as a "rice burner" or a "rice rocket." that's what they'd call my zrx1100 if i could hear them so far behind me. i guess my aprilia falco is a pasta burner. LOL.
 
I've been detailing quite a few vehicles lately and needed to add to my arsenal of goodies a way to attack heavily marred cars quickly yet cheaply too. I ordered some 4" wool pads, 4" Surbuf pads and of course the 4" backing plate to use them on my PCXP. Today I was trying to use the 4" Surbuf to manage the scratches underneath the drivers handle but from the get go my PC was fighting with me pulling in one direction and also had its speed going in and out as if the motor was about to stall out on me. I just got in a car accident last week in which my vehicle was totalled. It was a hard hit and as all of my detailing equipment was in the back crammed into one container some of the bottles exploded. I've never had my machine fight with me and have slight stuttering problems like it was behaving today so I was worried my machine might be busted. However, I had a 5" counterweight on it with the 4" backing plate and once that weight was removed all was well. Problem is now that the counterweight is gone I'm now feeling all the vibrations from the PC and I cant work more than a few minutes at a time with the machine feeling like that. Do I need another counterweight for 4" or is that just how it is at that small size and I just need to suck it up and learn to deal with it? If so cutting with a 4" for extended time may not be best for me. I've been thinking about getting a rotary for heavy correction work so would that be a better quicker option than using the 4"? I've been thinking about the standard Makita or their new one the dual mode Bo6040.
 
Ive had my PC for about a year now and its always had the counterweight on for every detail job Ive done. I've always been using the 6.5" size pads and never had an issue with my machine until today when I tried the 4" with the weight on. I removed the 4" and reattached the backing plate for the 6.5" pads and it worked fine again so thats what gave me the idea to remove the counterweight.
 
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