3Mâ„¢ Perfect-Itâ„¢ III Machine Glaze 05937

4

40thgto

New member
Autopian's,



Has anyone ever used (3Mâ„¢ Perfect-Itâ„¢ III Machine Glaze 05937).



Here's 3M's description:



New glaze that quickly and effortlessly removes compound swirl marks and produces the high gloss, swirl-free finish that shops demand. This new glaze is optimized for today's paints and with today's refinisher in mind. The user will be amazed at how quickly it removes the swirl marks to leave a "show car" finish.



From my research on the site, some people feel it is less abrasive than Finesse-it II. Similar to 3M SMR, but without the oils. Sounds like a great product. My goal is to remove the minor swirls on my 98 Viper GTS (Metallic Silver with Blue Stripes), and not fill them. An oil free product seems ideal. Plan to use the product with a PC buffer. Any tips, insight, experiences, will be greatly appreciated.
 
That’s my understanding of 3Mâ„¢ Perfect-Itâ„¢ III Machine Glaze 05937 as well. I want to try it somewhere down the road. I have Griot’s machine polish 3 which is VERY fine and has no fillers either. Their #2 is comparable to Finesse-it II, so I’d guess #3 and perfect-it III would be as well.





Adam
 
I use it and have found it to be a fantastic product. It removed all the scratches and swirl marks on my dark red Explorer, although they weren't too heavy to begin with. I cannot really compare the abrasiveness with SMR or FI-2 because I have no experience with either of those products. I haven't needed to try anything else because the PI-3 works great!



Mike
 
My question is this - when they say "machine" - I think they mean "rotary". And the only reason I can come up with that would REQUIRE a rotary is where heat is needed to assist in the application - either bonding of some sort, or more likely, break down of abrasives.



You sure can't tell from their web site.



Does anyone have an answer to this question from 3M themselves? I would like to know, from their perspective, what are the salient differences between the "hand" and "machine" versions of their products.
 
Hmmm, good question carguy. All I know is that I have been using mine with my PC and have had excellent results, so I don't think a rotary is necessary to break down the abrasives in it.



Mike
 
When they say machine they are refering to a hi-speed buffer. Not a pc or a orbital. the reason for this is that in order for this particular product to work it has to be heat induced. The high speed buffer is the only machine that will give you the results that you are looking for and that is FLAWLESS FINISH
 
I've been using Perfect it III now for a little while, I had it for a while and started using it because I was out of SMR and have Finesse-it II but wanted to try the Pi-III. I apply it with a PC and have been able to get it to break down by "working " it at 5 to 5&1\2. I thought it did a good job of removing,(not filling) some micro marring I had on the bottom half of the doors below the molding. It left very little residue behind as compared to SMR and Fi II. I like it so far but plan on testing it some more on a car with heavier swirls and marks.
 
auto care usa



I respectfully disagree with your statement that a rotary is the only machine you can use with PI-3. I have used it with a PC and have had excellent results by spreading it on speed 2.5, working it at speed 4-4.5 and doing the final buff at 5-5.5. The PC easily broke down the product and it left absolutely no haze at all. All in all I think it is an excellent alternative to SMR for use with the PC.



Mike
 
I have been using PI-III for a while and have had good results. Its not quite as abrasiveas FI-II so it won't get out as severe marring, but after I use it I dont have any haze to clean up as I do wwith FI-II... "so I got that going for me, which is nice." P.S., the Dalai Lama said that if you use PI-III, on your death bed, you will recieve total conciouness. (Just ignore that last part if you havn't seen Caddy Shack)
 
Brad4rdHay said:
"so I got that going for me, which is nice." P.S., the Dalai Lama said that if you use PI-III, on your death bed, you will recieve total conciouness.
Click to expand...



I think you’ve been smoking too much of Carl's Kentucky bluegrass/Northern California sensimilla hybrid ;)





Adam
 
Hey Malibu the big question here is how deep the scratches are. Like anything else I could take some scratches out by hand with presta 2000. The depth of the scratches is what the question is here. No doubt surface scratches can be remove with a pc as long as they are just laying on the surface I had a brand new Chrysler sebring convertible in my shop with heavy duty scratches on the hood from someone setting a box on it. The box had those metal staples in the bottom holding it together. This customer took the vehicle back to the dealer plus another well know paint shop both places advised her to have the hood completly repainted. By chance she was at a party and one of my present customers advised here to bring it to me. By the time I was done with the hood, it was better than a paint job because we were able to keep the factory paint. Nobody but the customer ever would of known that the scratches existed. This can only be done by someone with high speed buffer experience and the right products including3m liquid compound#5931.
 
I've been using it with good results for a few months , in conjunction with Perfect-It III Rubbing compound. I have used it primarily as a 3d step after color sanding and then compounding, but it seems to give me the identical results as the F-I II did. I haven't used it a a strict swirl leveler just yet, but the final results after the 3 step process seems to be pretty much swirl free. I like is so far. May be a tad finer in grit than F-I II, at least I suspect so, but can't say for certain.
 
auto care



That's true - for deeper scratches, a rotary is the only way to go. For most light to moderate swirl marks though, the PI-III can be used with the PC. Either way it's still a great product. :up



Mike
 
Autopian's,



I don't care about the deep stratches, as I don't have any. Only minor swirling. Therefore, is PI -III with the PC (White pad) with speed starting at 2.5, and working up to 5.5 is the way to go?



I guess the real question I would like to have answered is: Which is better for my needs - 3M SMR or PI-III?



I was thinking PI-III, because I want to removed the swirls, and not fill them.



Thanks.
 
It sounds like you have swirls that SMR may take care of. I have found that if you work the SMR long enough that it does remove minor swirling and may take more than one app per panel or surface. No doubt the SMR leaves a minimal residue but it's filling qualities may be less than you would think. I have not had swirls reappear as a result of what SMR might have left behind as "fill".

On the other hand if you have your mind set on Pi-III, in my experience I found that the CMA yellow pad with Pi-III worked great together as a start, you may want to follow up with a milder polish or something like PPCL before sealing or waxing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top