hey everyone, just a quick Q...is it safe or smart to use xmt 360 as a final polish/sealant after menzerna 106? i want to use the menzerna to remove minor swirls and then the 360 to remove any hazing and to seal, then i want to use some liquid souverain...will this process be ok?
360 after menzerna 106?
- Thread starter rezbmr
- Start date
imported_DetailDan
New member
Id skip the 360 and go straight to the liquid souveran. If you have hazing after using 106FF, then you're doing something wrong. Youll get a FAR better shine from just 106 then you will from XMT 360 too. If you really want a sealant, then use something else.
LazerRed1
New member
Depending on pad used, shouldn't have any hazing. I used LC CCS orange with 106 and finished lsp ready. Didn't remove all marks, however. Depending on how bad they are, may need SIP.
SuperBee364
New member
LazerRed1 said:
rezbmr said:
I've seen alot of people post lately about trying to use Menzerna PO106FF to do basic correcting work. Using it to remove minor swirls or with an orange LC light cutting pad will probably not produce the results you want.
PO106FF is a finishing polish. As such, it is meant to remove the most minor of imperfections (such as compounding haze and marring), but it is *not* meant to have any significant correcting abilities. It's meant to polish your paint to a very high gloss.
Each product has a very specific purpose: compounds are meant to do correction work, and finishing polishes are meant to put a very high gloss on your paint NOT correction work.
Most people run into trouble when they try to cross-purpose products. Just keep it simple, and use each product for it's intended use. Use a finishing pad (ex: white LC foam or finer) with 106FF to produce your *final* shine.
Use a correcting polish (like SIP) with a light cutting pad (ex: orange LC foam or coarser) to do your correcting.
If you can see *anything* in your paint other than compounding haze, your paint is not ready for 106ff yet. Keep working at it until *all* marring and swirling is gone. Then you're ready for 106ff.
SuperBee364
New member
rezbmr said:
As you know, that ceramiclear Mercedes clear coat is very hard. I'm assuming that you'll be using a Porter Cable RO type of buffer. That being the case, I would use Menzerna's Super Intensive Polish (which is specifically formulated for use on ceramiclear hard coatings) on a 4 inch orange LC foam pad to do the correction work (removing swirls and marring). It will take a long time to do this correction, but it can be done. Just don't give up.
After you get out *all* the swirls and imperfections, I would then switch to a 4" white (stay with the smaller pad, as you need the concentrated work area, even when on the final polishing stage), LC foam pad with Menzerna PO106FF. You'll probably need to do two applications to get the final shine this polish is really capable of giving.
Correcting this type of clear coat is *not* easy with a RO or DA style buffer. You're going to be in for a long day, but it can be done.
ok...i'm using a pc and have orange and white pads...i didn't know the SIP was for ceramiclear...i was under the impression that the 106ff was gonna cover swirl removal as well as final polish...so now i guess i'm in a jam cause i don't have the menzerna SIP and will not have time to order it before my detail on saturday...anything else i can use on that ceramiclear before the 106ff? i'm guessing that the swirls will not be heavy at all as this is a brand new car and is garaged all the time...
SuperBee364
New member
If you don't mind the fact that the swirls are still going to be there, you can just go with the PO106FF; your car will be very, very shiny, but the swirls will still be there. You won't be able to get as good of a shine without removing the swirls first (the swirls -and paint defects in general- scatter light, which detracts from the shine), but you will still be able to get your paint shiny with PO106FF.
Detailers will sometimes just use a final polish on areas that, for one reason or another, are not able to be corrected anymore. Just don't expect the best results.
Super Intensive Polish was developed to *correct* ceramiclear coats.
PO106FF was developed to *polish* ceramiclear coats.
Detailers will sometimes just use a final polish on areas that, for one reason or another, are not able to be corrected anymore. Just don't expect the best results.
Super Intensive Polish was developed to *correct* ceramiclear coats.
PO106FF was developed to *polish* ceramiclear coats.
I guess i'll just use the nano with an orange pad and try and polish out as many swirls as possible and then go over the car again with the nano and a white pad to just deal as best as possible with whatever is left over...i'll post pics when i'm done (if i ever actually finish lol)
SuperBee364
New member
rezbmr said:
Unfortunately, I've seen some brand new cars that are heavily swirled from going through the car dealer's preperation process. It only takes one incompetent washing to really swirl up a car's finish badly.
Don't forget to clay the car before you start using your PC to polish it.
As for using other products to attempt to correct the finish before using the 106ff, sure, you can give it a try. Just be aware of the fact that you are working on one of the very hardest clear coats out there. They are so hard that menzerna developed special products with a far greater amount of abrasives specifically to aid in correcting and polishing these clears. Also remember that you are using a PC, not a rotary, to correct that paint. PC's don't have anywhere near the correction ability of a rotary. Now also consider stepping down from a ceramiclear polish (like SIP), to a non-ceramiclear polish (like the products you mention), and you lose even more correcting ability. Using a PC to correct a ceramiclear coat with a non-ceramiclear polish is not something I would consider doing unless I had a great deal of time on my hands to do it....actually, probably not even then.
