3 month old black car, ideas on what it needs....

5

5.0GTCS

New member
Hey guys, on 08/21/11 I picked up my new 2012 Mustang GT. Of course the dealer "detailed" it lol but I know better that what they did was probably garbage. Anyway, I havent done any detailing at all to it besides about 5 washes. What steps would you guys recommend that the car needs? Should I do a clay bar and start all over from the beginning or most likely doesn't need that yet? I plan on using BFWD but not sure where/when or after/before which product in the process it goes on.



Also, I live in NY so the winter is soon approaching. So maybe you can recommend a better product for winter protection? The car will NOT be driven in the snow or salty roads, but it will be sitting outside in my driveway exposed to the elements (under a cover though)



Any help is greatly appreciated as I am confused with a lot of the steps and products. Thanks!
 
5.0GTCS said:
Hey guys, on 08/21/11 I picked up my new 2012 Mustang GT. Of course the dealer "detailed" it lol but I know better that what they did was probably garbage. Anyway, I havent done any detailing at all to it besides about 5 washes. What steps would you guys recommend that the car needs?
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I suspect that it needs a "full detail". Starting with the decontamination that the dealer probably failed to do.



When I read "black car" I can't help but think the paint is probably marred (swirled/etc.) up and will need a good polishing.



Then it'll need some kind of good protection.





Should I do a clay bar and start all over from the beginning or most likely doesn't need that yet?
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You can do the "baggie-test" to see if it has any significant above-surface contamination, but again..I myself would do a decontamination with something like ValuGard's "ABC". I'd probably consider the clay the very minimum in this regard.





I plan on using BFWD but not sure where/when or after/before which product in the process it goes on.
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That's a "Last Step Product" ("LSP") and goes on after you clean/polish/otherwise prep the paint.



You might oughta do some more research and get a good handle on the whole detailing process before you start. Or better yet, find an Autopian in your area who can either prep the car for you or help you get started the right way.



Also, I live in NY so the winter is soon approaching. So maybe you can recommend a better product for winter protection?
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On a black car, I'd lean towards Collinite paste wax, either their 476S or their 915.



The car will NOT be driven in the snow or salty roads, but it will be sitting outside in my driveway exposed to the elements (under a cover though)...
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I'd be worried that the cover will move/flap/etc. and severely damage the paint. Plus, sitting unused in the elements will be hard on the car both mechanically and cosmetically.



I'd do whatever's necessary to find some indoor storage. And I do mean "whatever's necessary".



Any help is greatly appreciated as I am confused with a lot of the steps and products. Thanks!
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Sorry that I've been a bit skimpy on the details of how to do this stuff, but it's kinda like trying to explain how to build a house to somebody who's just bought a piece of land. I *REALLY* think you oughta try to hook up with somebody who can school you on this stuff as that's the best way to get up to speed quickly with a minimum of frustration.
 
Here is a detailing overview I wrote up a while back, it covers the basics.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...osting-how-i-wash-cars-threads-here-mine.html



I agree with Accumulator, a car cover is likely to do more harm than good. Black is not the color you want under a cover or exposed to the elements since it is so unforgiving. I would never recommend someone who doesn't have a garage own a black car unless they are willing to spend 2-3 hours a week just keeping it clean, an additional couple hours at the end of each month renewing the protection and the ability to use a polisher to take care of the inevitable marring, swirls, etc you will get.
 
The Ford MotorCraft ABC system, as required in all their service manuals, is the same as the ValuGard ABC, as Automotive International produces it for Ford under private label.

Grumpy
 
Not sure about your location - city, rural etc. but when my little black GTI lost the garage slot to my daughter's new car, I bought one of those aluminum shelters that cover 2 sides and has gable ends, 20x20, really helps keep the car out of the elements.
 
+1 for finding a garage for the winter and the cover situation.



I have had customers purchase new cars and want them brought to perfection after being hacked by the dealership. In most cases I talk them out of it (I know... dumb from my own financial standpoint) and recommend a one step correction instead, especially for black. Since there is a limited amount of clear coat to work with for the life of the car I recommend making the best use of your full corrections. It also allows for some time to determine whether the owner is capable of maintaining a perfect finish. Most people have the best of intentions when they buy a new car, but after a few months the time necessary to maintain the finish can become too much and become a lower priority.



My recommendation would be to clay, and seal the car for the winter. When the weather breaks in the spring would be the right time to go about the full correction, if desired. In the meantime I recommend doing some research. This site can provide just about every bit of information you could possibly need and then some.
 
Thanks for the help guys. So marring seems inevitable even if not touched by anything? And its better off without a cover then with it? I'm gonna do more research on stuff but theres so many different opinions and stuff on which route to take.
 
5.0GTCS said:
So marring seems inevitable even if not touched by anything?
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If you are parking it outdoors during the winter it is going to be touched. Snow, ice, sleet, dirt in the wind landing on the paint then dragged across by melting snow and ice, people coming in contact, etc. Now, if you could find a garage to park in where it would be unmolested, that's another story.
 
Paint it silver J/J
5.0GTCS said:
Thanks for the help guys. So marring seems inevitable even if not touched by anything? And its better off without a cover then with it? I'm gonna do more research on stuff but theres so many different opinions and stuff on which route to take.
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5.0GTCS- There's gotta be *some* cheap way to store it...private garage, monthly storage place that's desperate for business...*something*. I always rented space back when I was a kid (before I had my own facilities), and believe me I wasn't spending an arm and a leg on it.
 
There have been some great recommendations made, but I would like to ask how much time per week do you have to dedicate to the car? If you just want it to look "nice" there is nothing wrong with claying it, using a light polish and regularly using something that fills like NXT and Ultimate Spray Wax. There is no 1/2 perfect on black, you either use product that fill and enjoy or you slowly go mad trying to keep it truly perfect.
 
black is a scary color when it comes to car detailing enthusiasts. so my first advice would be not to become a car detail enthusiast :)



second advice would be do the traditional wash, clay, polish, seal, and then just be prepared to repeat every 6 months, possibly more if your car lives outside at all times.



another bit of advice would be not to touch your car, especially when dry. that means with your hands, a cloth, paper towel, microfiber cloth, or anything else you can think of. don't let other people touch your car. don't park your car under things that will fall and touch it. generally just consider your car's paint toxic and that any touching (aside from washing and waxing) will be detrimental to your health and others around you. that should be a great start :)
 
tuffluck said:
another bit of advice would be not to touch your car, especially when dry. that means with your hands, a cloth, paper towel, microfiber cloth, or anything else you can think of. don't let other people touch your car. don't park your car under things that will fall and touch it. generally just consider your car's paint toxic and that any touching (aside from washing and waxing) will be detrimental to your health and others around you. that should be a great start :)
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I have to constantly explain this to customers. They love to rub right through dirt to show me stuff in the paint.
 
JuneBug said:
Not sure about your location - city, rural etc. but when my little black GTI lost the garage slot to my daughter's new car, I bought one of those aluminum shelters that cover 2 sides and has gable ends, 20x20, really helps keep the car out of the elements.
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Do you know where I could find one of those, or a link showing what they look like?
 
A lot of good advise passed on already.



I will just add for LSP you could also consider also 2 layers of FK1000p and perhaps it is a good idea to treat the rubber seals from time to time.
 
5.0GTCS said:
Can u recommend a good product for rubber seals and trim?
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Some exterior rubber trim responds surprisingly well to some LSP-based approaches (e.g., Collinite 845, KGS).



But for the type of stuff you want to keep soft and pliable, look into Wurth Rubber Car and the 1Z Gummi Pfledge (sp?) stick.
 
5.0GTCS said:
how bout the 303 protectant, I read it can be used on rubber seals.....
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It's a good treatment for rubber, period.



BUT...I don't like dressing-based approaches like that for exterior rubber because it can wash off/run in the rain and needs redone pretty often. The LSP-based approach has worked well for me despite what some say about "don't use petroleum distilates on your rubber!". I've done it for *decades* on my Jag with no problems and it's never caused issues on any of my other vehicles either.



The Wurth Rubber care is a bit different from dressings like 303 in that it seems to penetrate better and is relatively immune to stuff like running in the rain. It's great for stuff you need to keep pliable such as, well...some of those rubber seals. Seems to better resist getting washed off every time too.



But again, it's not like you'd go *wrong* with 303; I have it and I use it. I just like/use other stuff most of the time.
 
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