3.5" Backing Plate Failed

harleysuperduty

New member
I was using it for the second time tonight for about 45 minutes with two breaks. I used #80, SSR2 and SSR1 with 2 orange mini pads and one white one. I didn't notice any excessive heat and I don't bear down hard on the PC. The vendor advertises this as the one that "European Car Makers recommend" and "stands up to repeated vigorous uses". I was using it on single stage black paint on my '03 Mercedes Benz C320 Sport 4matic. Things went very well until I heard a wierd sound and thought the pad was coming off, so I shut it down just in time. Fortunately it didn't come all the way off and gouge my paint.



Is this a freak occurence or has anyone else seen this happen?
 

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That's pretty insane. Today we did a whole WRX w/ ONLY 4" pads... 5 times or so the pad SHOT OFF. Fortunately it was never under much pressure so we didn't end up slamming the velcro into the paint!
 
I figured they'd stand behind it, but I've emailed them twice and called once and haven't heard anything yet... The phone is ringing... It's THEM!! They literally called as I was typing this. They are sending me another one ASAP. They said try to cut the speed down to 4 - 4.5. I was using 5.5 - 6. I hdn't mentioned the vendor, but since they are standing behind it, I will. It's AutoGeek. They stand behind their products!

Mike
 
imacarnut said:
what speed were you using it at?



was just going to ask the same question. glad you stopped it in time, that could have been much worse.



edit: you should never have to turn the speed up past 5. velcro and backing plates WILL fail at that speed. dont they include this type of stuff in the directions?
 
Eeek I just ordered these spots pads last night...I got the low profile pads with the same backing plate.....I hope I don't have this issue :S
 
I'm using the same plate and almost ALWAYS use speed 6 for all polishes.. maybe I'll have to drop to around 5 when doing 4" pads.
 
there is no reason what so ever to use speed 6. if speed 5 isnt getting the job done, youre either not using the proper technique, or that job is out of the pc's league. if its the latter, its time to go purchase a rotary. you should never have to max out the speed on a buffer.
 
jeen said:
there is no reason what so ever to use speed 6. if speed 5 isnt getting the job done, youre either not using the proper technique, or that job is out of the pc's league. if its the latter, its time to go purchase a rotary. you should never have to max out the speed on a buffer.



Idk. I definately prefer speed 6 over 5 with most products on the 6.5" pads.
 
I also like 5.5 - 6 for about everything but wax. It definitely helps on scratch and swirl removal. The lower speed will work but will take a lot longer.
 
I 100% use speed 6 on every polish. Moving speed of your arms dictate how the polishing goes, but I want my polisher to be doing as much as it can on each pass. Otherwise it is just wasting my time :sign



However, since I've tried the 3.5" backing plate and 4" pads, I notice that 6 is a bit extreme, causing the pad to spin a bit too vigorously, and it does look like it could spin off.. I use 5 for 4" pads, 6 for 6" pads.
 
I also use 5.5 - 6 when removing defects and scratches. I'm using the larger 6.5 LC VC pads and you have to use them that high. I'll try a lower speed with the new 6" Edge 2000 pads.
 
correct me if im wrong, but the megs pads are also 6.5 inches? if you have to set the machine higher than 5, you arent using the right technique. use more pressure, a slower arm speed, and you should get the results you want. if you call any detailing company that distributes the g100/pc, they will tell you the same thing. it seems that way too many people are making this mistake, and attributing failure to the manufacturer. once youve got the right technique down, youre set.
 
jeen said:
there is no reason what so ever to use speed 6. if speed 5 isnt getting the job done, youre either not using the proper technique, or that job is out of the pc's league. if its the latter, its time to go purchase a rotary. you should never have to max out the speed on a buffer.

Jeen, in spite of the fact you joined just a couple days ago, from reading your post it's obvious you're not a beginner ot detailing. That said, if you read here for awhile you'll see that a lof of folks here with a lot of personal and professional experience, including a few who develop, manufacture and sell products, find that speed 6 is quite appropriate for dealing with some situtations in correcting paint defects.
 
velo, the problem with people upping the speed past 6 is that the parts tend to fail when pushed that hard. i have no doubt at the potential of some of the people here, many great detailers, but the problem with the pc is that it has limits. it is much more of a finishing tool, than a cutting tool. when people push the machine up past speed 5, there is a chance for backing plate failure. i really dont mind if people use it on their own, but i just think that telling enthusiats to up it to speed 6 is just a recipe for trouble. some of these people then have their backing plates fail, and assume it was the manufacturer. not only that, but it could also cause damage to the paint.



as the person said, when they contacted AG, they had mentioned not to turn the machine up past 4.5-5. the reason being is if you are applying the right amount of pressure, and your arm speed is slow enough, you shouldnt need more than speed 5 for light paint correction. if you cant get a job done with speed 5, a light cutting pad, and a compound/polish, then the defect cant be safetly removed via the pc, and you should move up to a rotary, or call it quits.



as i said, i dont mind what experienced detailers do, but spreading this information to somebody new to the business, or to an enthusiast, could yield very bad results. theyll think that you can safetly use the pc up to speed 6, when that isnt the case, and no doubt theyll start off using the wrong technique. the pc is fine for light defect removal, but in reality, it should really be used as a finishing tool. ive learned quite a bit from this board, so in no way am i trying to bad mouth anybody, but there none the less, there have been some posts that have shocked me. to each their own eh?
 
PC, 3M FCRC, Yellow Pad

b2.jpg


after2.jpg




Would this just be considered "finishing work"?
 
indeed it would. left over holograms, and swirl marks from compounding would be considered finishing work.



edit: ill go take a picture of something that the pc could not tackle. i need to hit it with a rotary.
 
jeen said:
indeed it would. left over holograms, and swirl marks from compounding would be considered finishing work.



edit: ill go take a picture of something that the pc could not tackle. i need to hit it with a rotary.



Lol... you should have seen my paint in person. The body guy that got a hold of my car raped the entire car. I'll wait for your pics.
 
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