2 the guy who only uses wool pads

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imported_sonyexec

New member
I am wanting to give wool pads a shot with my rotary -- which 2 pads would you suggest I get and from whom (mfg & re-seller)?? Im not a pro and just going to use for my personal cars, all my cars are in good condition paint wise so there won't be a need for any type of major paint corrections ect. I just polish out the car about every 3 months to get rid of the light swirls that appear and to slap on some wax.



Thanks for your help.
 
I've got the perfect pad for you. I was introduced to this pad by Superbee364 when I was polishing my hard corvette clear. Since then, I have turned many people on to it and they all love it as well. It has great cutting power yet it finishes LSP ready. This is my go to wool pad.



Foamed Wool 6.5 inch Polishing/Buffing Pads



THIS PAD ROCKS



Patrick
 
sonyexec said:
I am wanting to give wool pads a shot with my rotary -- which 2 pads would you suggest I get and from whom (mfg & re-seller)?? Im not a pro and just going to use for my personal cars, all my cars are in good condition paint wise so there won't be a need for any type of major paint corrections ect. I just polish out the car about every 3 months to get rid of the light swirls that appear and to slap on some wax.



Thanks for your help.
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If you have to use a polish once every 3 months to get rid of swirls, you really should work on learning how to not scratch your finish.



I dont even have to polish that often on my black daily driver that sits outside 24/7. Its all about not putting back in the swirls you just took out.



As far as wool, superbee is the guru of edge2000 wool. I use it as often as he does, however, he finishes down with edge white (their finest) wool whereas I always follow with foam.
 
I do like the Edge wool but on dark colors I just can't seem to get a LSP ready finish - close but not quite. I always seem to finish up with either 106 or 85RD on either a black or white foam pad and it brings it up another level. I do like the wool for correction since heat doesn't build as fast as heavy cutting foam pad.
 
Sometimes I have to remind myself that most people on this board simply do not know how to inspect paint.



YOU CANNOT FINISH 100 PERCENT with wool, period. You will ALWAYS have wool marring from the fibers spinning across the paint. Think about it...



If the wool increases the cut of the polish (which it does) then it has cut. If it has cut, then it will not finish LSP ready, unless your standards are low.



The other thing that might make it "appear" LSP ready is if your product "fills". My favorite combo is SIP/Purple Wool, but it fills. The other night I finished a 5 million dollar car with that combo. Looked perfect. The next morning, wool marring.



The only true way to ensure that you have no micro marring when you are finished (and its not filled) is to finish your polish out completely and use a pad with zero mechanical cut.



I know.. I know, SIP doesn't fill... Even though I have a PM box full of (or atleast I did) messages from top detailers on this board who have all experienced this.



Also, be careful on who you trust, I know a couple guys on this board who are respected, but have heard from relaible sources that their work is sub-par. Polish your car with wool and your polish, then wipe clean with pre-sol and inspect under halogens at a slight angle. I promise you will see wool marring, and if you don't, you have no business polishing a car IMO.
 
ron231 said:
If you have to use a polish once every 3 months to get rid of swirls, you really should work on learning how to not scratch your finish.



I dont even have to polish that often on my black daily driver that sits outside 24/7. Its all about not putting back in the swirls you just took out.



As far as wool, superbee is the guru of edge2000 wool. I use it as often as he does, however, he finishes down with edge white (their finest) wool whereas I always follow with foam.
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Not as a personal attack on superbee at all, but polishing your car and a couple of your friends certinaly doesn't qualify anybody as a guru. I know super is looking into doing this part time (he mentioned he isn't) and I'm sure he wouldn't qualify himself as a guru as well.



Its funny how my opinion on a lot of DIYers opinions changed when I started polishing 1-2 cars on a daily basis, as opposed to one car a week or less...
 
sonyexec said:
I am wanting to give wool pads a shot with my rotary -- which 2 pads would you suggest I get and from whom (mfg & re-seller)?? Im not a pro and just going to use for my personal cars, all my cars are in good condition paint wise so there won't be a need for any type of major paint corrections ect. I just polish out the car about every 3 months to get rid of the light swirls that appear and to slap on some wax.



Thanks for your help.
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Wool is great for cutting, light polishing, ect... You will not finish LSP ready (to most standards, though some on here don't know how to correctly inspect finishes) to the highest level.



I personally like LC's 100 percent twisted wool for cutting and LC's purple foam wool for light cutting-meduim polishing.



Edge makes great wool as well, allowing people to select their level of cut based on the fiber blends.
 
Great info Todd. It's definitely a different territory between daily drivers and million dollar show cars. IMO wool is safer for cutting than foam on a rotary which it is harder to burn sharp edges(been there, done that).



As to finishing with a pad with no cut-if your finishing polish has some cut then why use a pad with no cut? Will a LC blue or red finish better than a LC black (foam pads)? How do you rank the Megs Tan pad?
 
TH0001 said:
I know.. I know, SIP doesn't fill... Even though I have a PM box full of (or atleast I did) messages from top detailers on this board who have all experienced this.
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I guess that is the downside to using a polish that was designed only for Mercedes's Ceramic clear and not conventional paint.
 
wannafbody said:
I think the issue is that almost all polishes contain some type of oil-most list mineral oil as an ingredient.
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That is not it.



If you correct with lets say.... OP. The finish looks perfect after an IPA wipedown or 2 and you clean the paint afterwards as well with something like PS.



If you come back next day, it will still look perfect.



The issue is not with sip's ability to fill imperfections. According to Menzerna, these 2 polishes will make the paint swell - giving you a perfect finish untill things settle down.



It will not happen on Mercedes paint. Once the paint it corrected, it will stay corrected.



That is my understanding.
 
The original quuestion was about wool pads - I think, got side tracked there - anyway, I switched to 3M pads, their system is fairly simple. You have a wool compounding pad, a foam compounding pad, a polishing pad and a finishing pad. That's it - 4 pads and you're set. For products I use 3M 3000 Extra Cut, Menzerna IP, and 3M Ultrafina SE. I still use my LC pad and grey with the PC for LSP's and Glazes, but that's just cause I have a ton and decided to keep them for those chores.
 
TH0001 said:
YOU CANNOT FINISH 100 PERCENT with wool, period. You will ALWAYS have wool marring from the fibers spinning across the paint. Think about it...



If the wool increases the cut of the polish (which it does) then it has cut. If it has cut, then it will not finish LSP ready, unless your standards are low.



The only true way to ensure that you have no micro marring when you are finished (and its not filled) is to finish your polish out completely and use a pad with zero mechanical cut.
Click to expand...



Great advice Todd. I've been saying this about wool for a while. A polishing/finishing foam pad will always improve a wool padded finish. Do you ever come across certain silver or white vehicles that you can *get away* with finishing out(~90+%) with a foamed wool? Sometimes it's real hard to notice marring when you use certain polishes on these light colors.
 
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