2 Lexus GX and 2013 Hyundai Elantra Opti-coat weekend

Alexshimshimhae

New member
Ok SO Let me preface this with the disclaimer:

By no means am I to even remotely considered an expert; this is simply the approach I took with what limited knowledge that I retained. Any guidance and tips would greatly be appreciated as I'm still eager to learn. Also, I tried, but many of the pictures didn't come out right what with fatigue and a camera phone that I dropped one too many times, but I salvaged what I could. I suspect the paint is still not perfect...didn't help that by the time I got corrections done I didn't have a good light source either. So let us begin





Girlfriend and her mother bought a new car this year. Her mother picked up the White Lexus GX, my girlfriend bought the Black Hyundai Elantra (2013). Her sister picked up the Black (with metalic gold specs?) about a year and a half ago and her fiancee didn't want anyone to touch the car saying he would do it...she came back from deployment (air force) and it was trashed so had her come over.



This is what I ordered up. I restocked on the pads and mitts because I've been out of practice for a while and forgot how beatup my current stock was. The valu-guard I ordered seeing as I saw some good reviews by people I trust. I also ordered two opti-coat kits but only ended up using one--I suspect the White Lexus didn't get anywhere near enough opti-coat but we'll get into that later.

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2013 White Lexus GX

ABC Decontamination

Spot Claybar

Opti-Coat

I didn't personally opti-coat this myself. I did the hood and had my gf do the rest while I worked on her car as forecast said rain and I figured I'd have to rush.

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I was surprised at how dirty this car was--it was garage kept but when I did my initial rinse--the water turned an odd shade of brown--I actually thought the hose water was rusted...

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Before ABC.

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After ABC. I should note that I found myself smiling when I felt the paint after the ABC wash...even lightly running across the paint it literally squeaked (talk abuot squeaky clean)

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Wheels weren't bad but still soaked them with P21s Wheel gel 4:1 water:WG

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2013 Hyundai Elantra.

Though I told her not to let the dealership wash/prep/"detail" her car, they did it anyways. DISO is always good -_-;

ABC Decontamination

Spot Claybar

LC White - HT Polish

HT Tangerine - Po85RD

P21s Wheel Gel

P21s TAW

ONR

Opti-coat



Interior:

Stoner's Invisible Glass

303 aerospace

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I assume that a power washer would have loosened more dirt off the paint--but with hose on blast..it seemed the dirt was there to stay

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No beading..I think w.e. lsp they put on lasted I think a few days...

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Blurry but dirty

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Wasn't sure if this scratch was out of the dealership or if this was from the parking lot (forget what my gf said) but either way having this before you have it a week has to be infuriating.



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After ABC

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Took off the sunroof visor and we decided to keep it off--but it left scratches in the paint already. Compounded with HY Cyan and OPT Hyper Compound. Polished down with LC White and OPT Hyper Polish followed by HT Tangerine with PO85rd

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Looked Like etching...not quite sure what it was but it was a shame that a new car would present something like this

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At least the other side matched...

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Spiderwebs. There was a section that I was able to see pigtails but I guess the photo didn't save

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This is part of the write up where we talk special effects...just wish it wasn't on the paint..Enjoy the hologram show

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.

After ABC spot claybar (I found that I usually didn't have to clay bar after abc as the paint was really clean) Taped up trip and got her ready to go!

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Trying to find a combination I got frustrated (hence the panic post I made earlier: btw thanks guys) because I was left with some RIDS but the light swirls seemed to be left by the white and opt polish and just wasn't finishing down right. After getting flustered and frustrated, it dawned on me that when working with the PO85rd I wasn't letting the polish break down. I think us newbies and novices forget that point: before jumping ship remember to work in the products that need time to break down. I was hesitant to use po because I feel it's oil heavy, but in the end I'm glad I did as the final wash took off the oils anyways and the finish seemed to be the best I could get it afaict

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there was a marked improvement in the finish. I think this was a failed attempt at a 50/50

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Another failed attempt at a 50/50 shot

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I sectioned off the bigger panels to try to remind myself to limit my work areas as the sun (for the short time it was around) made it hard for me to work the PO85rd. The Opt presented less issues in direct sun use.

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so this scratch that I presented earlier:

HT Cyan - OPT Hyper Compound

LC White - OPT Hyper Polish

HT Tangerine - PO85RD

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After. There was a slight recess where the scratch was but it was hardly noticeable and I didn't want to go to aggressive as I wanted to preserve as much of the clear as possible. I had a "do the least amount of damage as you can". I found that sometimes I have a tendencies to jump to the harshest method that I know will take it out, but I'm betting more times than not, it would be overkill, so this time I hope I wised up some.

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The final wash I put 2 oz of Acid Neutralizer ("A" in the ABC system) 1oz of CG Citrus Wash, 2 oz of P21S TAW, and 1oz of ONR. Why you ask? because I was stupid tired and just wasn't thinking...but I WILL tell you that it got the job done :peace:

Like the A and B part of the ABC system, I let this sit on the paint for about 5-10 minutes touching up with more solution in areas that started to dry (keep all surfaces wet!)

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by the time I got the car dry, it was night so I pulled the car into the garage and proceeded to opticoat the car. Following the instructions on the syringe I primed the pad and then reapplied onto the pad as needed. I am a bit concerned that the pad(not being all that soft) may have added marring to the paint but the next day I didn't notice any. I'm not sure about the "couple drops" as the syringe stated as I pretty much put on enough product so that when I wiped on I saw the product actually coat the paint. I tried to wait till i applied it to the next panel before I "knocked down" the panel I applied product to before.

The photo below is my attempt at hosing the paint the next morning. It kept sliding right off so took this picture with a hose steadily spraying onto the paint. I purposely left the few water beads to dry on and PA has hard water (I'm sure many here will cringe and *facepalm*) ONR solution and mf towel....problem solved.

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Was hoping for some sun to inspect my work the following day but it was a cloudy day.

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Lastly Lexus GX (Not sure what black this was--but black knights armor pearl?) as I worked on the car I noticed the sister looking on intently and asked if she wanted to give using the Flex a try--she looked like a kid on Christmas morning.She picked it up fairly quickly but for the sake of time I finished up most of it. The contaminants bonded to the paint so a full car claybar was needed even after ABC



ABC Decontamination

Claybar

Spot Compound:

HT Cyan - OPT Hyper compound

HT Tangerine - OPT Hyper Polish

P21s Wheel Gel

P21s TAW

ONR

Opti-Coat



Engine bay:

P21S TAW

Meguiar's Dressing





Interior:

Stoner's Invisible Glass

303 aerospace



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The car was riddled with RIDS and scratches etc...(why her fiancee took this to his job knowing his parking lot was a disaster is beyond me)

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sorry for the bad quality but many of the light scratches and RIDS were removed or greatly reduced with compound and polish

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The drivers side had some bad marring from what seems to be a runaway shopping cart

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I was able to clean some of it up, but the rest were through the paint.

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1.5 years of driving did this

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unfortunately by the time I got to her car I started running low on P21s WG and forgot to pack the gallon (her parents used it on their dd's too =/ )

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Finished

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I should note that in terms of form, I approached it with a modified KBM



Especially since I haven't been detailing for a long while I forgot a lot of things, and were rusty with the rest (and man my body made sure I remembered that fact) but hopefully I did the cars some justice and gave them at least a halfway decent pampering.



Special thanks to the guys on forum who took time to calm me down and talk me off the ledge--you know who guys are. I know you're all busy scrambling with your own lives but still took some time out to help =].
 
Depends on which one--there were a lot of them xD I will probably explain in greater detail when I do the write up but I usually just used cyan pad with the opt compound and a pseudo KBM ... I was contemplating on using m105 and possibly the lc orange but I figured a)the HT cyan seemed to get enough of it leveled where you'd have a hard time seeing it and b) the ones that it didn't take off...well they were either through the clear/paint..ergo moot or they would probably need a wetsand which i wasn't willing to do.



and thanks!
 
who makes the.cyan pad? and what is psuedo? lol sorry..im used to the stuff.i use and it all does agreat job..im just looking into expanding my knowledge!
 
cyan is from Lake country I had the hydrotech pads laying around and decided to use those



Pseudo isn't a product--I just meant that I used a somewhat modified version of the Kevin Brown Method (there should be an article on forums) I can't say for sure if it was the best route--but it seemed to work
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
cyan is from Lake country I had the hydrotech pads laying around and decided to use those



Pseudo isn't a product--I just meant that I used a somewhat modified version of the Kevin Brown Method (there should be an article on forums) I can't say for sure if it was the best route--but it seemed to work



thanks...i love the hydro pads..best ones i used yet..tho thwy do dust a bit more. i get best results from.them.
 
The write-up is done now but yea--the HT worked well for me--I remember being told there were other pads from one of the detail sites (not autogeeks or detailedimage) but I couldn't remember for the life of me what they were--so I just stuck with what I knew.



I didn't use the MF system because I wasn't sure if it was going to be all that helpful--read foams still finish better so figured I'd save myself the extra work
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
The write-up is done now but yea--the HT worked well for me--I remember being told there were other pads from one of the detail sites (not autogeeks or detailedimage) but I couldn't remember for the life of me what they were--so I just stuck with what I knew.



I didn't use the MF system because I wasn't sure if it was going to be all that helpful--read foams still finish better so figured I'd save myself the extra work



im always looking for new pads to try. .and i do wanna try the mf system..looks good. eventually i will.
 
I bought the Meg's one back when it first came out--the problem I'm having is that the backing plate doesn't work with the Flex3401 and they said there was a conversion thing that came with the kit but mine didn't and I was too lazy to send docs to have one sent to me (by now i'm sure it's too late anyhow)



It also tends to get really hot and it makes me nervous (then again i don't use their recommended backing plate for the reason above)



lastly on soft clears which seem prevalent these days, it doesn't seem to finish the way I want it to.
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
I bought the Meg's one back when it first came out--the problem I'm having is that the backing plate doesn't work with the Flex3401 and they said there was a conversion thing that came with the kit but mine didn't and I was too lazy to send docs to have one sent to me (by now i'm sure it's too late anyhow)



It also tends to get really hot and it makes me nervous (then again i don't use their recommended backing plate for the reason above)



lastly on soft clears which seem prevalent these days, it doesn't seem to finish the way I want it to.



i gotcha...question...how do u know what clear is soft and whats hard?
 
I'm sure the better versed gents (and ladies) have better ideas--but for me, I usually think of it this way (but I actually expect to be horribly wrong)



Asian cars-typically soft

Germans-typically harder unless it's ceramic(then really hard) or black (soft)

American- not really sure--the one american I remember working on was the hummer..and those things are in the ballpark if hard.



For me though it kind of just boils down to trial and error..but I do believe sometimes you can look it up by checking out the info on the car--usually a sticker that tells you the OEM paint composition including clear?
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
I'm sure the better versed gents (and ladies) have better ideas--but for me, I usually think of it this way (but I actually expect to be horribly wrong)



Asian cars-typically soft

Germans-typically harder unless it's ceramic(then really hard) or black (soft)

American- not really sure--the one american I remember working on was the hummer..and those things are in the ballpark if hard.



For me though it kind of just boils down to trial and error..but I do believe sometimes you can look it up by checking out the info on the car--usually a sticker that tells you the OEM paint composition including clear?



i know i did an altima. a couple weeks ago..n there was just some scratches that didnt want to go..looked to be in the.clear..not the paint. but my.maxima was easy.it was 1.2.3 done...my camaro is black so it took ne a lil bit longer to do.
 
I'm actually thinking the Flex was part of the problem in this situation---perhaps if I went with Griots or some other less aggressive DA I might have had less trouble...
 
Well in the past I've had trouble finishing down on soft paints with my flex--I remember I nearly pulled my hair out when I worked on a SS porsche and my friends jetblack bmw...makes me want to buy a new da xD (maybe I see how the HD one fares)
 
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