2 coats KAIO and Fk1000p?

marinesoup

marinesoup

New member
Or 1 coat KAIO and 2 coats FK1000p?
Usually I can get an answer from Accumulator, but he's not been on.
This is the duo I am using to ready up the paint for our Canadian winter.


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I can't recall the rule on that but Ron Ketchum has discussed what's appropriate in the past. I'm sure Accumulator will know.
 
FK1000P layers right away in the functional sense; it was developed as a mold-release wax and they just put on coat after coat almost immediately when using it for that. BUT, "functional" doesn't always equal "attractive" and the problem is with solvent-action and uneven curing causing things to look bad.

So, Ron always said you can layer FK1000P right away, and that had been working OK for me UNTIL it didn't and then I got some pretty nasty pseudo-holograms (presumbably from solvent-action). Ron said it was all my fault and that I should've buffed it off differently but he was *also* telling me to buff it off with cotton (!) which isn't touching *my* paint, so I basically blew him off on that one.

The idea is that you need to get max air-exposure on the FK1000P, so you use a relatively coarse buffing medium (hence the cotton towel idea) with multiple passes- first break the haze, then buff more, which is what I do anyhow..he kind of lost me there as I couldn't figure out what he'd change about my technique other than the cotton towel thing. Eh, it was just one of those things were Ron and I weren't gonna be on the same page so I decided to just wait between coats.

Waiting solves the problem for me. BUT somebody else might not even have to wait at all (hey, I didn't for many sessions until it bit me). I'd just do one coat now and another after each of a series of regularly-scheduled washes. But a day's wait between coats would probably work fine too. Maybe even just 12 hours..but I'm afraid to try it. At least with this product one coat is plenty for a long time, so it's not like you have to hurry up with the second one as when using something like an AIO or even a Collinite wax.
 
So I applied my KAIO and then FK1000p after 12 hours and I must say that I'm more impressed with the results than I thought I would be.
The KAIO went on smooth with a somewhat wet look and then after the FK it made it it more glossy looking rather than wet.
I do like the final results on my black metal paint.
I am now debating wether I should apply a second coat of FK after my next wash. If time and weather permit I think I probably will.
I did a thin layer of the FK1000p only using a small amount from my sample tin.
b4be58bc337f91d38a5694ac009a3d70.jpg

Not sure what method you applied your FK with Accumulator, but I used my DA with a 5" LC white pad and it worked fine at 3-4.


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marinesoup- Glad it's going well, and if that sample tin is as small as mine was then you're using a good, minimal, amount of product.

I've never tried it by machine, but the more good reports I hear from people doing it that way the more I think I might.
 
marinesoup said:
So I applied my KAIO and then FK1000p after 12 hours and I must say that I'm more impressed with the results than I thought I would be.
The KAIO went on smooth with a somewhat wet look and then after the FK it made it it more glossy looking rather than wet.
I do like the final results on my black metal paint.
I am now debating wether I should apply a second coat of FK after my next wash. If time and weather permit I think I probably will.
I did a thin layer of the FK1000p only using a small amount from my sample tin.

Not sure what method you applied your FK with Accumulator, but I used my DA with a 5" LC white pad and it worked fine at 3-4.


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Click to expand...

marinesoup, you had me wondering where all the wax went...thought it was a full size can!

Accumulator, I do a 30 ft boat hull every year with FK...4" LC white pad fits right into the tin. Have also done several cars the same way but the cleanup doesn't seem worth it.
 
I have used a GG 6" DA to put the Fk1000p on and use a plastic knife and smear it on a waxing pad. It save a work out on the fingers trying to hang onto the pad and the arms smearing it on. Of course thin is the key but I am from the younger days of Turtle Wax where if a little is good a lot is better. I work it in good trying to use a minimal amount and seems to come off decent if you can get it at the point it begins to haze. Seems if I waited too long before removing it then it seemed to get a little difficult to remove.
 
skibik- Much as I harp on the thin *thin* *THIN* applications, I don't really have a problem with people slathering product on as long as it doesn't compromise the results. The BUT here is that with the FK1000P too much *can* lead to issues, especially if you're trying to layer. I also have *ZERO* problem with "working the LSP in" but again, if layering FK1000P you gotta be careful that you don't do a solvent-action number on whatever's already on the pait (including prevously applied FK1000P).

I you want to *work* a LSP, especially by machine, you'd love M16. But that's another one that can bite you if you put it on too thick (so just keep working it to spread it out).
 
skibik said:
I have used a GG 6" DA to put the Fk1000p on and use a plastic knife and smear it on a waxing pad. It save a work out on the fingers trying to hang onto the pad and the arms smearing it on. Of course thin is the key but I am from the younger days of Turtle Wax where if a little is good a lot is better. I work it in good trying to use a minimal amount and seems to come off decent if you can get it at the point it begins to haze. Seems if I waited too long before removing it then it seemed to get a little difficult to remove.
Click to expand...

I use one of these Buff & Shine dual pads to apply FK1000p by hand. It's a snap--much faster than the DA--and doesn't put stress on the fingers. The foam is the same euro foam from their red pad which is soft but the pores are dense so it doesn't soak up allot of product.

buffandshine_red_notched_applicators_01_2214_thumb.jpg
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Well I just completed my second thin coat of fk100p with no problems. I waited about 10 days between coats, no solvent action.
I did notice that the second coat was a more sterile shine, but still looks awesome.
I think I'm going to stick with the one coat KAIO and 2 coats of FK1000p.
Thanks for all the input.


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I just ordered a tin of fk 1000p I use 845 but as we know its a pain to work with in colder temps. Shawnf350 loves it :dance1 so I am going to give a try, if its as good as 845 I to will be dancing in the streets. :headspin
 
I have the 845 also but only use it on my wheels which it does a great job.
I did try it on my wife's minivan to see how it does, better her old van than my car


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Tpr1634 said:
I just ordered a tin of fk 1000p I use 845 but as we know its a pain to work with in colder temps. Shawnf350 loves it :dance1 so I am going to give a try, if its as good as 845 I to will be dancing in the streets. :headspin
Click to expand...

Start dancing..BETTER than 845 in every way I can think of but sometimes a different look.
 
marinesoup said:
I have the 845 also but only use it on my wheels which it does a great job.
I did try it on my wife's minivan to see how it does, better her old can than my car


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Click to expand...

I bet you'll find the FK better on wheels too.
 
hercar said:
Start dancing..BETTER than 845 in every way I can think of ...
Click to expand...

But the FK1000P isn't as trim-friendly as 845. I've used it on exterior black plastic trim and even some rubber bits, but it can go haywire so I basically consider that approach to be "don't try this at home, kids!". If you try it, apply even thinner than usual and buff it off before it flashes.
 
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