1997 Eclipse

T

turbochargedv8

New member
This is my brothers Eclipse as you can see in the first two pics I did a test section near the windshield washer nosel on the hood

I buffed that section once over with an orange pad with ssr2.5 then white with 1 however i was left with red paint on both pads.

After getting paint on the pads i thought maybe it was to agressive so today i decided just to go with the white pad with the ssr1 for the hood and fenders followed by a hand wax

Now that its all said and finished i think i should have continued to do the entire hood and fenders with the orange2.5 followed by the white with ssr1 because i still got red paint on the white pads and in the sun it still seems to have a slight fade to it although it does shine a lot bettter

what are your thoughts im still learning here and im enjoying this
thanks

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What I would do in that situation is first buff it with PB PP and a white pad. This will remove your oxidation chemically instead of with abrasives. You might have to go over it a couple of times to get the oxidation off. It sounds like the paint is single stage (no clearcoat). Then from there you could try the SSR1 and a white pad. If you don't like the results you could step up to the 2.5 but be careful the paint could be very thin from all the oxidation.
 
ok i have a bottle of poorboys professional polish its a thin white liguid is that it? So i should use this then the ssr1 thats not working backward? I thought you always work your way down.

are you saying i should go back over the hood and fenders with pb pp and then ssr1
or do the rest of the car like this

use pb pp with white pad then to ssr1 white pad? if so i'll give that a try in a few days im letting my only two white pads dry and next time i can have some time with the eclipse i give it a go
 
here a pic from the test section i did as you can see the paint left behind made me a little nervous to use the orange pad again do you think this car has no clear coat?
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You can put your pad on the PC hold it firmly gradually turn the speed up that will dry it quickly and dry it enough to buff properly. Pro Polish is the thin liquid you are right. You are right usually the PP would be after the SSR but you are strictly using it to remove oxidized paint first. By doing this not only are you removing the dead or oxidized paint but now you can see what you are working with better in terms of swirls and light scratches. You will learn that PP is extremely versitile and can be used in many different ways. You can folow your SSR 1 with the PP after to deepen the shine a little if you like. I know it can get confusing but you will get the hang of it.
 
turbochargedv8 said:
here a pic from the test section i did as you can see the paint left behind made me a little nervous to use the orange pad again do you think this car has no clear coat?
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My guess would be no after seeing those pads. Most likely, it has had a repaint with a single stage paint.
 
turbochargedv8 said:
that makes sense do you think i should go back over the hood and fenders or leave them alone considering i already hand waxed them?
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If you're satisfied, then no. Being a perfectionist, and seeing how there looks to be room for improvement from what I can tell in the sunlit hood shot, I'd say yes it needs more polishing. And I mean that in a very constructive way (not trying to be a smart alec).

I'd be concerned about the paint. Seeing as how it appears to be a single stage (and I believe those cars had a clear coat, because I saw a lot of the around here with CC failure) my main concern would be the thickness of the paint. Maybe try and find out (if you don't know) the history of the paint.
 
I think no one mentioned this but you want to strip the hand wax job off you did, before you polish them. I always use a Dawn Wash first before I polish anything to make sure all of the old waxes are off before I begin to polish. Their are some other commercial products out their that will do it, but it doesn't sound like you have them, and most people have Dawn under their sink. You don't want to be fighting with the old wax while you are trying to chemically remove the oxidation.
 
i dont think it would be a bad idea to wash with dawn first the cars so small wouldnt take me but 15 minutes

I guess its safe to conclude this car has no clear coat. With this being said would it be better for me to use my black and blue pads or will these not work at all, I only have 1 black and 1 blue and with the paint coming off like it is I think i should be washing these pads after a few passes once i get they start to look like above? no?
 
turbochargedv8 said:
i dont think it would be a bad idea to wash with dawn first the cars so small wouldnt take me but 15 minutes

I guess its safe to conclude this car has no clear coat. With this being said would it be better for me to use my black and blue pads or will these not work at all, I only have 1 black and 1 blue and with the paint coming off like it is I think i should be washing these pads after a few passes once i get they start to look like above? no?
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Personally, I think a Dawn wash is overrated. And over prolonged use of time, it probably contributes to drying out of rubber and plastics. I've done them before, and I'll probably do them again, but like I said I think the long term cons outweigh any kind of benefits.

I'd also polish with your polish pads. You're going to be hard pressed to remove marring with a finish type pad.
 
lots of great advice here ... use you white polishing pad with the Professional Polish ... don't worry about the paint coming off ... it is taking so little off with a polishing pad ... keep polishing until you see the shine popping though ... then buff and see where you are at ... you may want to stay away from the orange pad if you don't know who painted it or how much paint is left ... also the PP will remove any old wax without an extra step ... like I said ..lots of good advice above ;)
 
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