1979 930turbo Megs MF correction

Concours.John

Auto Detail & Restoration
This particular vehicle was a promotional vehicle for the Ronald McDonald house charities. It was on display at a local Porsche museum and at multiple shows and events. The vehicle was repainted several years ago. It used to have multi-colored hand prints all over. These were removed before it was purchased by the current owners. There were still “shadows” of some of them when I received it. I have been fortunate to work with them on other projects in their collection.

The vehicle is covered with shrinkage pretty deeply, swirls and scars from the hand print removal. Whatever was used to remove the handprints has tinted the clear. With this being a repaint over the original paint and primer between, a common sense approach is necessary. I will not be able to gauge the clear coat except by using the experience of following behind multiple painters habits of spraying. Careful judgment and visual inspections were used throughout.

The Goal is to save this vehicle from a repaint if at all possible. The outside of the vehicle came in clean other areas received a good wash/rinse where components were removed.
PROCESS

Underside and wheel wells were washed with Simple Green and Griots car wash 2oz. to 2gal.
After washing areas where components were removed the vehicle was fully clayed with Griots Speed Shine and Griots Paint Clay.
The majority of the vehicle was sanded w/ 3M 2000 grit followed by 3M Trizact 3000 foam sanding disks.
I wanted to see what the Megs MF Correction System was really capable of compound wise. Menz. PO85rd was used with the finishing disk.
Compounding PC7424xp 4800opm per instructions
Polishing PC7424xp just below 4800opm the Po85rd seemed to like it here
70% ISO clarity checks were done between each step before a final burnishing with the Po85rd
A final ISO wipe down before sealer was applied this is why I chose not to use the D301
OBSERVATIONS

The D300 required a few extra passes but did remove the sand marks with the aid of the Trizact. Keeping the pad clean is a must. Compressed air worked best but made a mess. A test spot to compare speed was done with LC orange and Menz. Power Finish on a rotary at around 1800rpm. The rotary accomplished this with fewer passes. This would have been followed with LC black and Po85rd to insure gloss. My main objective was to show what the Megs system can do in comparison. This would also be less aggressive with less chance of error. Speed=rotary Safe correction=DA Meg system.
This paint was relatively hard also.

All final pictures including outside were before sealer. Any high quality sealer would work. If you use the D301 an ISO wipe down is necessary to remove the built in wax to insure a good bond.

All edges were taped then back taped before proceeding to next panel. All black foam components were protected. Tape was removed for documentation and wipe downs.

PAINT CONDITION

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UNDERSIDE

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PREP AND PROCESS

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YOU CAN SEE THE DIFFERENCE IN SHADE HERE, FENDER DONE HOOD NOT

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SHRINKAGE THAT WAS REMOVED GOES TO EDGES IN PLACES

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AFTER

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ROOF

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BOTTOM

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SUN PEEKING THROUGH CLOUDS

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THANKS FOR LOOKING.

I read Todd's great write up on the Veyron while waiting for pictures to load. I definitely have alot to learn about doing this.
 
awesome job,
I think we all need to learn from Todd on his write up! haha

Do you have a comparison of the rotary/da or can you not tell the difference? (being number of passes as the only real difference)

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This looks like a tongue...haha
 
awesome job,
I think we all need to learn from Todd on his write up! haha

Do you have a comparison of the rotary/da or can you not tell the difference? (being number of passes as the only real difference)

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This looks like a tongue...haha

The rotary will always be quicker. I chose the PC and MF system to remove paint in smaller increments. I'd not want to go past defect removal before the next step.
Yes Todd is the master of write ups.
 
Thats all i figured was the difference. When I go through the Hyrdo pads I just got im going to try the MF system out. Seems to be all the rage.

Im not a volume producer so do not care too much about the time savings except when im doing headlights

We should come up with some kind of template to use for these reviews
 
Awesome work, John! :rockon

The rotary will always be quicker. I chose the PC and MF system to remove paint in smaller increments. I'd not want to go past defect removal before the next step.
Yes Todd is the master of write ups.

Indeed! When dealing with vintage cars especially, slow and steady wins the race :bigups
 
Have I told you lately that I love you?

You're my hero!

On a hetero note... Very nice work as usual, Sir.
 
John!!!!:yay Great work. I love 930's, and the work you carried out on it is amazing. Doing a full sand on a car is a BIG job to do correctly, and you knocked it out of the park!

Give the MF system a chance, like anything else, the more you have experience, the better you will become. I agree that in most cases the rotary will do heavy correction faster, but as we all know, in this game there are so many variables that no rules apply ;)

I'm getting off topic, great work once again!!!!
:rockon:bigups
 
I can't multi quote on my phone but thank you for the compliments everyone.
Gary and Charlie you are cracking me up!
Todd Ive been playing with this system and must say I'm pretty impressed.
Thanks again all!
 

For some reason I was expecting it to start with:

"Hey, Rod Stewert here... Premium Custom Detailing"

"Today I'll be using my PCxP to apply Opti Coat to a Fender Stratocaster while simultaneously using Leatherique Pristine Clean to add highlights to my hair." :lol2:

What? Not like I Rickrolled you or something :inspector: :yay

Yet. :eek:

TL
 
Great job John. I've wanted to try out the MF system but I'm a little worried

I saw somewhere that it was only suggested for factory paint but this car was a repaint. It didnt cause you any problems did it?
 
Great job John. I've wanted to try out the MF system but I'm a little worried

I saw somewhere that it was only suggested for factory paint but this car was a repaint. It didnt cause you any problems did it?

The only real limitation is that you wouldn't want to use it on a fresh repaint, but once the paint is cured it's usually fine. Even if you do get some hazing a quick hit with a foam finishing pad and some fine grade polish like 85RD will knock it out in a hurry.
 
The only real limitation is that you wouldn't want to use it on a fresh repaint, but once the paint is cured it's usually fine. Even if you do get some hazing a quick hit with a foam finishing pad and some fine grade polish like 85RD will knock it out in a hurry.

Perfect answer!
 
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