1964 Chevelle Malibu Exterior Detail

Dellinger

Dellinger

New member
A very nice gentleman gave me a call about 2 months ago with a general uneasiness of how his Chevelle appeared in the sun light. The car is a relatively fresh build in a resto- mod style (LS3 V8, 4L60E, tubular A-arms... general upgrades so that the car drives and handles a bit like a newer car.) Paint system is PPG Deltron 4000, Tabasco Red to be exact and was painted almost 8 months ago.

Now, the gentleman and I had some scheduling issues... some of it was on my end (busy and just experienced the birth of my first child) and some on his (unforeseen issues with front suspension and steering when he thought all he needed was an alignment.) So, the two months of May/ June evaporated quickly and that is really a tough pill to swallow in the Pacific NW because you only have 3- 4 *good* months of decent weather of which to take the car to shows and cruise-ins. Anyway, I will get to the particulars...

(Sorry, no real prior shots to really show the heavy trails in the paint but it was overcast the day the car was dropped off.)

The car was rife with buffer trails, heavy swirling, and some deep scratches from someone bending over the tops of the front fenders and some minor sanding marks from the refinishing process required removal.

Car was relatively clean, used D114 for a rinseless wash followed by a fine clay bar to remove any amount of bonded stuff. Steam and D114 was used on wheels/ wells/ jambs to clean.

I ended up cutting with Rupes 21/ Car Pro MF 5.5" pad/ M205 with water spritz.
Refined with LC Orange low profile pad on Rupes 15 with HD Adapt
Finished with traditional 8mm stroke D/A, LC Black pad, Car Pro Reflect.

Pneumatic sander/polisher used in conjunction with a 2" pad for really tight, scalloped areas (tops of fenders, body lines on rear quarters, and below rear deck lid, above bumper.)

All stainless was taped off and wiped down with window cleaner, following. Chrome bumpers (which were basically new) received a very mild polish and sealant.

Some minor spot sanding was required on the hood 1,500 & 2000 grit by hand on Jason Killmer blocks.

LSP was Brite Max Vantage which was forwarded by the graciousness of ShawnF350 (I think that is his screen name.) This is a really nice wax which it is a blend of polymers + carnauba; as of now this wax is what will replace HD Poxy for me because Poxy seperates, after time, and I don`t like that. Again, I am not a LSP junkie, so this will be the only wax I keep on my roster along with two other sealant products.

And as a side note... I tried the Brite Max Pro Max (light compound) and was not impressed with it... will try to post a separate review to illustrate my reasoning, this was also a gift included by ShawnF350.

And on to the photos...


B-pillar, prior to polishing:



B-pillar, after 2 steps, prior to finishing polish and hybrid wax

_DSC3818

Hood prior to polishing...

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Hood after 2 steps (appologize for the dust)

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Close up of typical defects...

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Defects removed. Finish after two polishing steps.

_DSC3800

Rear deck lid, prior to polishing.

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Rear deck lid after polishing with 2 steps.

_DSC3828

No before picture here (pressed for time both then and now, lol!) Showing lip of front fender and transition areas polished to a high degree.

_DSC3852

Same with pic below... some minor dust is present.

_DSC3846


After photos:

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_DSC3984

_DSC3982

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While this `64 is largely not a very *technical* car as far as polishing goes... I spent the necessary time ensuring all transitions contained ZERO micro marring that can be prone to poor technique with a D/A. Consider the below.

_DSC3969


_DSC3907


_DSC3927

And if video is your thing...




Anyway, thanks for checking out my post and hope everyone is well.

Best regards,
-Gabe
 
:drool: that video , great save, it looks beautiful! So, the stainless trim around windows/grille and on doors was wiped clean only?
 
Migue said:
:drool: that video , great save, it looks beautiful! So, the stainless trim around windows/grille and on doors was wiped clean only?
Click to expand...

Migue- sorry, I should have clarified. Window stainless trim (front and rear) were taped and tape residue was removed with window cleaner. Then I treated them with Vantage but it was hand applied to these parts. As for the grille and the trim down the sides of the car and on the hood... they received a spray polymer.

My reasoning is this- the more you touch stainless... the more it mars. So tape it off. It really has to be removed from the car in order to correct the marks in the stainless and it is always oxidizing... it doesn`t matter what you do. You can hand polish to your heart`s desire but it will need it weekly and then you have marred it. This stainless was relatively new and the owner and I discussed this and were on the same page... touch as much as absolutely necessary but no more. That I did.

Hope that helps.
-Gabe
 
Dellinger said:
Migue- sorry, I should have clarified. Window stainless trim (front and rear) were taped and tape residue was removed with window cleaner. Then I treated them with Vantage but it was hand applied to these parts. As for the grille and the trim down the sides of the car and on the hood... they received a spray polymer.

My reasoning is this- the more you touch stainless... the more it mars. So tape it off. It really has to be removed from the car in order to correct the marks in the stainless and it is always oxidizing... it doesn`t matter what you do. You can hand polish to your heart`s desire but it will need it weekly and then you have marred it. This stainless was relatively new and the owner and I discussed this and were on the same page... touch as much as absolutely necessary but no more. That I did.

Hope that helps.
-Gabe
Click to expand...

Thank you for that response, it does help.
 
Gabe !
Beautiful work on a beautiful color on a classic GM car !!
Love those early Chevelles !
You did a great job !
I know what you mean about the little "window" to work with in the Pacific Northwest very well.. :)
Thanks for all that hard, Detailed, work !
Dan F
 
Dellinger:
Would you care to elaborate and enlighten me on what you mean by "micro marring than can be prone to poor use of (improper techniques with) DA"?

Micro marring is "difficult" to see to the untrained eye without the proper lighting and even more difficult to photograph. I would just like to know what its root causes are and how to avoid it.

My "experience" with micro marring comes from wiping off M105 compound that has dusted excessively.

Was this paint clear coated or is it a single-stage??

Whatever LSP you applied, I think it underscores what most good detailers know: its all in the prep work that gives the vehicle that head-turning shine. Your machine polishing methodology and workmanship is outstanding. (Helps to have the right machines/tools at your disposal along with the ability to use them properly.)

I never thought about brushed stainless steel trim used on older vehicles as being "marr-able" or "scratch-able." I always think of stainless steel as being very "hard", like chrome, BUT I have "marred/scratched" soft (AKA cheap or thin) chrome with the wrong use of cleaners and clothes. Maybe using stainless steel appliance spray cleaners applied with a chamois-like microfiber needs to be added to my detailing arsenal.
 
You made her look brand new. Red is my favorite. Thanks for the review.
Congrats on your little boy B)
 
That was my first brand new car. 1964 Chevelle Malibu SS, 283 cu. in., 4 on the floor, posi, in Crimson Red. I loved that vehicle. Thanks for posting those images. It brought back some fabulous memories.

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Lonnie said:
Dellinger:
Would you care to elaborate and enlighten me on what you mean by "micro marring than can be prone to poor use of (improper techniques with) DA"?

Micro marring is "difficult" to see to the untrained eye without the proper lighting and even more difficult to photograph. I would just like to know what its root causes are and how to avoid it.

My "experience" with micro marring comes from wiping off M105 compound that has dusted excessively.

Was this paint clear coated or is it a single-stage??

Whatever LSP you applied, I think it underscores what most good detailers know: its all in the prep work that gives the vehicle that head-turning shine. Your machine polishing methodology and workmanship is outstanding. (Helps to have the right machines/tools at your disposal along with the ability to use them properly.)

I never thought about brushed stainless steel trim used on older vehicles as being "marr-able" or "scratch-able." I always think of stainless steel as being very "hard", like chrome, BUT I have "marred/scratched" soft (AKA cheap or thin) chrome with the wrong use of cleaners and clothes. Maybe using stainless steel appliance spray cleaners applied with a chamois-like microfiber needs to be added to my detailing arsenal.
Click to expand...

Lonnie, I will try to answer your questions...

Concerning the D/A haze- I believe I referred to it as `poor` technique... not `improper` technique. As much as I would like to say that I am an expert at all things detailing; I am not, so the words I choose have to mean what they say. Thus I chose the adjective- poor. It is above my pay grade to call the following or anything I am about to say- improper because I noticed a while back with my own results and thus, I at once, did use poor technique so I am no one to judge another. But as they say- we live and we learn!

So, yes, micro marring. Specifically to my point: you can get micro marring from a number of things and thus is not solely a result of a poor combination of pad/ product. A thick polishing pad can cause micro marring on a radius, cove, transition, etc. A uber soft polishing pad can cause micro marring because of the lateral distortion of the foam and X amount of pressure being used. The side profile of a pad can encourage micro marring depending on bevel or pure 90 degree horizontal/ vertical transition from the side to the face of the pad. Size of a pad can contribute to micro marring (ie- trying to get the pad to conform to a contour or angled area.

Specifically, I was alluding to the fact that I made sure when I was polishing the transitions (where the sheet metal changes, angle, contour, form, etc...) that I made sure to use the best suited diameter of pad instead of trying to cram a 5.5" where a 4" or 2" would be better suited. Also, you need to keep a razor eye on that vertical or horizontal or angular transition "line" with a D/A, as any pad overlap with tend to create a faint marring on the "other side" of that transition line and vice versa.

Now, all the above hinges on some other factors- your polish, your pad, your machine, how you *handle* the polisher, how easy the paint is to work with, etc... and I am a eon away from a Kevin Brown but these very rough ideas that I have laid out above are things that come from the fortunate but short years I have been able to work with paint. It also takes a little intuition that only comes from hours of polishing.
With my diatribe almost complete, we would all probably not have this micro marring problem so much if we finished with rotaries but… I haven’t figured that one out just yet (can work a wool pad and foam for cutting but….) And I try to be methodical as I can, so when I feel I have this D/A thing down; I will then move to really figuring out finishing with a high speed.

The Chevelle was base/ clear- PPG Deltron paint system.
Stainless- Lonnie you actually hit the nail on the head for me! This was all re-pop trim… thus from China… thus lower quality. Thus mars horribly and even if it was original GM trim… you still have to tiptoe around the tulips because it’s that much more valuable!
I am not versed in the metallurgy of what GM used in the 60’s vs. what is available on the aftermarket, so all could very well play a role in how hard/ soft the material is. Either way, oxidation is such a bear.

Maybe not the exact answers you were looking for but it should give you some food for thought. Maybe?

Best regards,
-Gabe
 
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