Concours.John
Auto Detail & Restoration
Without further delay the Laguna Blue Beige leather interior Split Window Corvette. I've been a little busy.
I was contacted to do this vehicle for sale. It has 1600 miles on its restoration. It has been wiped down over the past few years but does not appear to have had much water taken to it. It was very dusty in the engine bay. There were swirls and rids pretty much equally around due to the wipe downs. There were also some buffer swirls and DA marks here and there on multiple panels but they were not too severe (buffer swirls).
The Agreed Objective:
Clean engine bay
Clean Interior
Clean Wheels and Wheel wells
Remove browning on tires and treat
Moderate correction to remove swirls and moderate rids
Clean old wax residue in cracks
I tend to reserve full corections for when I know more of the history of the paint. I also prefer to do them knowing how the paint will be cared for after. I think it is important to talk with an owner and know how they plan to care for the paint. At that point the vehicle can be "mapped" where heavy correction occured. There are some RIDS here and there which could possibly be removed safely but without the information care wise it's best to play it safe. I was not asked either to 100% correct the vehicle.
Products:
Sprayaway glass cleaner
M105/M205 via PCXP Also used to polish chrome bumpers
Megs cutting/finishing MF disks
Multiple brushes
Gary Dean's
Suds O Bubbles
Infinite Use Detail Juice (interior,exterior)
Tuned Performance Tire Gell (tires)
Friggin Awesome In and Out Cleaner(1:1, 2:1, Straight)(interior,exterior)
Dressed to Impress
Leather Feed
Preptimus Prime
Eye Candy (LSP)
The Evaluation
Paint Condition
There is an area of prior burn through (left of flash) that had to be touched up. Its only seen when the headlights up. It does get touched up but this is why it is important to document before polishing.
During Process M105
Its important to tape and back tape edges. another thing is to tape up felt and crevices where polish dusting can accumulate.
Whatt appears to be a scratch in the middle of the picture is a bar up in my ceiliing.
Here is a 50/50
After M105
Note the three RIDS near peak they were worked a little more with 105/205. They are still there but not as noticable except in certain light. I wanted to show that you can't always go 100% unless you know for sure what you are dealing with.
Yes the Gas door was brought back in and finished.
After M205 before final wash
Finals Engine Bay Shots were before Final Wash
When dealing with vehicles with shim and paint marks it is important to know that many of these marks are done with a grease pencil. to heavy of a cleaner will remove them. Soap and water only used here.
2:1 Gary Deans Friggin Awesome In and Out Cleaner (Factory uncoated porus Wheels)
Engine bay was cleanred with mild mix of APC and soap. Paper inspection stickers were covered with tape and a slightly larger peice of paper like a band aid to seal from water damage. Aluminum was polished enough to just remove spots but still leave correct patina.
I was contacted to do this vehicle for sale. It has 1600 miles on its restoration. It has been wiped down over the past few years but does not appear to have had much water taken to it. It was very dusty in the engine bay. There were swirls and rids pretty much equally around due to the wipe downs. There were also some buffer swirls and DA marks here and there on multiple panels but they were not too severe (buffer swirls).
The Agreed Objective:
Clean engine bay
Clean Interior
Clean Wheels and Wheel wells
Remove browning on tires and treat
Moderate correction to remove swirls and moderate rids
Clean old wax residue in cracks
I tend to reserve full corections for when I know more of the history of the paint. I also prefer to do them knowing how the paint will be cared for after. I think it is important to talk with an owner and know how they plan to care for the paint. At that point the vehicle can be "mapped" where heavy correction occured. There are some RIDS here and there which could possibly be removed safely but without the information care wise it's best to play it safe. I was not asked either to 100% correct the vehicle.
Products:
Sprayaway glass cleaner
M105/M205 via PCXP Also used to polish chrome bumpers
Megs cutting/finishing MF disks
Multiple brushes
Gary Dean's
Suds O Bubbles
Infinite Use Detail Juice (interior,exterior)
Tuned Performance Tire Gell (tires)
Friggin Awesome In and Out Cleaner(1:1, 2:1, Straight)(interior,exterior)
Dressed to Impress
Leather Feed
Preptimus Prime
Eye Candy (LSP)
The Evaluation
Paint Condition
There is an area of prior burn through (left of flash) that had to be touched up. Its only seen when the headlights up. It does get touched up but this is why it is important to document before polishing.
During Process M105
Its important to tape and back tape edges. another thing is to tape up felt and crevices where polish dusting can accumulate.
Whatt appears to be a scratch in the middle of the picture is a bar up in my ceiliing.
Here is a 50/50
After M105
Note the three RIDS near peak they were worked a little more with 105/205. They are still there but not as noticable except in certain light. I wanted to show that you can't always go 100% unless you know for sure what you are dealing with.
Yes the Gas door was brought back in and finished.
After M205 before final wash
Finals Engine Bay Shots were before Final Wash
When dealing with vehicles with shim and paint marks it is important to know that many of these marks are done with a grease pencil. to heavy of a cleaner will remove them. Soap and water only used here.
2:1 Gary Deans Friggin Awesome In and Out Cleaner (Factory uncoated porus Wheels)
Engine bay was cleanred with mild mix of APC and soap. Paper inspection stickers were covered with tape and a slightly larger peice of paper like a band aid to seal from water damage. Aluminum was polished enough to just remove spots but still leave correct patina.
