1957 Ford F-100

[Rob Tomlin]

I got over to my friends new house, which has an 1800 s.f. shop, to detail his 1957 Ford F-100 pickup. It was nice having such a big shop to work in, plenty of room and decent lighting (he may add some more lights).



Anyway, he bought this truck from a father and son who had it as a joint project. They painted it themselves...unfortunately. My friend went ahead and had just the lower portion of the two tone paint repainted to a gunmetal metallic (it was an ugly light blue before). He left the top paint (cream) as he plans on doing a total restoration down the line, so he just wanted it to look "decent" for now (until he finishes his Chevy).



The cream color paint was a HUGE mess. This stuff looks like it was applied with rollers!



As you can see from the before pictures, there was virtually no gloss, reflection, depth, or clarity to the paint. It looked like someone had taken sandpaper to it. There were lots of water etching as well.



We didn't expect miracles, but I thought I could get it looking quite a bit better with a good rubbing compound using the Makita. It seemed to be a perfect candidate for my new M105.



The M105 actually turned out to be somewhat of a PITA for me to use. Very big learning curve with this stuff! I started out using a yellow LC cutting pad (6.5"), and was pretty disappointed with the initial results. It wasn't bringing the paint back much at all. I increased the speed to about 1800 rpms, which seemed to help some. But the biggest problem was the working time (less than 15 seconds), and the "flashing" (I believe that is the term for it: the 105 would dry on the paint and not come off with the buffer).



After going over the hood with the 105 and yellow foam a couple times, and still being disappointed, I switched over to the purple foamed wool. Wow! What a difference this made! I was finally getting better correction AND a much better finish! The main reason I used the yellow foam to begin with was that I only had 2 PFW pads available to me, so I thought I would do the majority of correction with the foam first.



After this "experiment", I can say that I will never use foam again for cutting. Wool all the way. I probably could have used something with a little more cut than the PFW, but the PFW worked pretty darn good in terms of both cutting and finishing.



The 105 was still a bit difficult to use, even with the PFW though. The working time didn't increase, and I was still getting the flashing, but to a slightly less extent.



So, a quick summary of my process:



1) ONR wash



2) Clay using blue clay from ExcelDetail (ONR mixed per their recommendations for clay lube)



3) Yellow LC foam with m105 on cream portions of truck, followed with PFW and m105, 1800 rpms.



4) PFW with SIP on cream portion of truck



5) 106ff on gunmetal paint with white finishing pad (paint was in pretty good shape, with just a few swirls)



6) Alcohol wipe down.



7) DWG via PC at #5 with black pad



8) FK1 1000p LSP



9) FK1 425 final wipe down



10) FK1 108 on tires



First, the before pictures. Gloss? Depth? Shine? Where are you? (BTW, the Chevy in the background will be detailed in the next few weeks too)

 

[Rob Tomlin]

And the after shots.



Despite the difficulties I had using the M105, the final results were very good. I don't know when I will have the opportunity to work on a vehicle that had paint this bad, but when I do, I will keep trying to fine tune my process with the M105. My friend had some 3M Perfect-It II, which I tried briefly. It was much easier to work with, but the results were not as impressive, so I kept using the M105.



Sorry that the color balance is off in some of these pics. There was a combination of natural and flourescent lighting (and halogen from the side) which my D70 had a hard time handling (any digital camera would).

As you can see in the following picture, the paint is certainly still not perfect. In fact, the drawback to buffing it out is that you can now see more paint defects that were inherent in how the truck was painted. Still some RIDS remaining too, but much much better than before.

I have to add that I am now a big believer in DWG.



The paint looked noticeably glossier and wetter after application:

The 106ff with white pad worked well on the gunmetal paint and removed the minor swirls that were present:

It was about 9 hours of work! Yet, I did enjoy it. It helps when you see noticeable improvement after working that long! Of course, working on classic vehicles like this and hanging out with friends doesn't hurt either!



I have a dark green metallic Denali, and the 56 (or is it a 55?) Chevy lined up for my next details.

 

[Way2SSlow]

What a restoration job that was Rob. It's great to see that kind of improvement when you're working. Really pumps you up to keep going. Sweet truck and shop too! Ya also gotta love being able to help a friend out.

 

[mgproudfit]

Excellent work, thats a beautiful truck.



_Matt

 

[David703]

:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow



I scrolled down so fast after i saw the befores because I couldnt wait a second longer to see your results!!!





OUTSTANDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[imported_fishbonezken]

what a turnaround!!! Superb job!!!

 

[Rob Tomlin]

What a restoration job that was Rob. It's great to see that kind of improvement when you're working. Really pumps you up to keep going. Sweet truck and shop too! Ya also gotta love being able to help a friend out.

Exactly. I mean it really does give you a feeling of accomplishment to get improvement like this, but doing it to your best friends truck makes it that much better!

Excellent work, thats a beautiful truck.



_Matt

Thanks Matt!

:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow



I scrolled down so fast after i saw the befores because I couldnt wait a second longer to see your results!!!





OUTSTANDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks David. After the first half hour of polishing I really didn't think I was going to get anywhere close to the results that were finally obtained. I wasn't going to give up that easily though, and it paid off.

what a turnaround!!! Superb job!!!

Thank you.



I am pretty sore today!



As an additional note to my original post, I have to add that it was very humid here when I did this detail. It was also much cooler than normal. This certainly may have had something to do with the M105 acting the way that it did.

 

[detaildoc]

Amazing turn around. So I see that you ended up liking the DWG.

 

[Rob Tomlin]

Amazing turn around. So I see that you ended up liking the DWG.

Very much so! But my personal opinion, based on my experience, is that it really needs to be applied via machine with a black pad to be worked into the paint. Hand application didn't seem to do much for me.

 

[Pats300zx]

Great job Rob. The before and afters on the paint are amazing.:goodjob

 

[SuperBee364]

Very much so! But my personal opinion, based on my experience, is that it really needs to be applied via machine with a black pad to be worked into the paint. Hand application didn't seem to do much for me.

That's my experience with DWG too, Rob.



That is some *outstanding* first rotary work, Rob. And on paint that was such a mess! Then throw in the M105 on top.... wow, what a way to break in the new Makita, huh??



One technique that seems to work pretty well with M105:



Apply about a three inch strip to the paint



cover the strip with the PFW. Move it in a *little* circle before turning on the buffer. Just enough of a circle to coat the pad.



Turn on the buffer, go straight to 1.5k RPM, and immediately spread *and work* the compound *at the same time*. DO NOT PRE SPREAD THE 105 AROUND BEFORE YOU WORK IT. It'll already have flashed over before you even get a chance to work it. You *must* spread it as you work it. Keep the buffer head moving slowly, and always into a fresh area. *Don't go back and rework the same spot more than one very brief additional pass*. If you're going to do a second pass, do it *immediately* after the first. Don't go into a new area yet, just go back on the area you just did, make a second pass, then move on to fresh paint. Slowly start counting to ten as soon as you turn on the buffer. When you hit ten, *regardless of where you are at*, STOP. You are *done*. Grab some QD, spritz in on the work area and use an MF to remove the 105.



I'll see if I can make this a bit more clear.... let's say that the area to be polished consists of three "rows". Apply the strip of polish to the start of row one. Put the PFW over the top of it, and gently move it in a small circle to spread the polish around the pad. Spin up the rotary, and start counting to ten. Move the buffer head through row one. If row one needs another pass, *do it now* before moving on to row two. After second pass of row one, start moving through row two. Once you have come to the end of row two, do a second pass through row two, if it needs it, now. Then start on row three. By now, you'll be getting darn close to your ten second limit. No matter where you are when you hit ten, stop. You want to finish *before* it starts to flash over. Ten seconds is a good place to stop. Remember, you don't need to break this stuff down, so STOP!



To get an absolute time, do a test area, and work it til it flashes over. Count the whole time. Remember the number you got to when it flashed, then subtract a few seconds. That's your working time for the polish for the day. Never exceed that number.



Even if the polish hasn't flashed over, you still should use a QD to remove the residue. The abrasives in 105 don't break down, so it is still highly abrasive when you remove it. The additional lube in the QD will keep you from marring the paint when you remove the residue.



The best success I've had with 105 so far has been to only do one pass through each row, with a ten second work time. Then, after removing the residue, do a visual inspection. If an additional pass is needed, start a new application, and again do one pass through the work area. Second applications/passes are seldom needed. In that one pass (ten seconds worth), you will have removed as much clear as a full minute's worth of buffing with M95. It's also much better to take your time and evaluate whether a second pass is needed when you're not on a ten second decision clock. Don't get in the habbit of just doing a second pass without determining if it needs it first. Don't let the one pass, short work time, and great finish fool you; you just removed a boat load of clear in that one pass.



OK, one last thing to clarify... as you do each row, keep moving the buffer head the same direction: toward the end of the row. If you're going to move left to right through your row, keep the buffer head moving to the right *all the time*. *Don't* go back to the left unless you have determined that you *need* a second pass. If you do need a second pass, then once you have reached the end of the row, move the buffer head back toward the start of the row, again without ever changing direction. Keep it moving to the left. DON'T EVER MOVE YOUR BUFFER HEAD IN ANY DIRECTION EXCEPT TOWARD THE END OF YOUR ROW. Anytime you go back over paint you just buffed, you just doubled the amount of clear removed. You'll end up with not level clear if you inconsistently move the pad back and forth. Start at the beginning of row one, then without ever changing direction, go to the end of row one.



Well, by now I either helped, or totally confused you. Hope I helped.

 

[DaGonz]

Excellent job! :2thumbs:

 

[a.k.a. Patrick]

Nice Rob! Tell your friend nice shop also!

 

[Rob Tomlin]

Great job Rob. The before and afters on the paint are amazing.:goodjob

Thanks Pat!

That's my experience with DWG too, Rob.



That is some *outstanding* first rotary work, Rob. And on paint that was such a mess! Then throw in the M105 on top.... wow, what a way to break in the new Makita, huh??

Yes, it was a perfect candidate for my first try with M105 and the rotary. The paint was so bad that my buddy wasn't concerned about the possibility of burning the paint.

One technique that seems to work pretty well with M105:



Apply about a three inch strip to the paint



cover the strip with the PFW. Move it in a *little* circle before turning on the buffer. Just enough of a circle to coat the pad.

Yes, after applying the polish to the pad and having less than stellar results, I finally remembered this technique, and it definitely worked better. Unfortunately by the time I tried this method, my pads were getting pretty gummed up.

Turn on the buffer, go straight to 1.5k RPM, and immediately spread *and work* the compound *at the same time*. DO NOT PRE SPREAD THE 105 AROUND BEFORE YOU WORK IT. It'll already have flashed over before you even get a chance to work it. You *must* spread it as you work it. Keep the buffer head moving slowly, and always into a fresh area. *Don't go back and rework the same spot more than one very brief additional pass*. If you're going to do a second pass, do it *immediately* after the first. Don't go into a new area yet, just go back on the area you just did, make a second pass, then move on to fresh paint. Slowly start counting to ten as soon as you turn on the buffer. When you hit ten, *regardless of where you are at*, STOP. You are *done*. Grab some QD, spritz in on the work area and use an MF to remove the 105.



I'll see if I can make this a bit more clear.... let's say that the area to be polished consists of three "rows". Apply the strip of polish to the start of row one. Put the PFW over the top of it, and gently move it in a small circle to spread the polish around the pad. Spin up the rotary, and start counting to ten. Move the buffer head through row one. If row one needs another pass, *do it now* before moving on to row two. After second pass of row one, start moving through row two. Once you have come to the end of row two, do a second pass through row two, if it needs it, now. Then start on row three. By now, you'll be getting darn close to your ten second limit. No matter where you are when you hit ten, stop. You want to finish *before* it starts to flash over. Ten seconds is a good place to stop. Remember, you don't need to break this stuff down, so STOP!

In hindsight, after experiencing the M105 and trying different things, the above makes a lot of sense! It was difficult getting used to such a short working time. I don't know if I will ever get past it, to be honest. I need to get a smaller bottle to put the 105 in so I can have it right there to add more....every 10 seconds!

To get an absolute time, do a test area, and work it til it flashes over. Count the whole time. Remember the number you got to when it flashed, then subtract a few seconds. That's your working time for the polish for the day. Never exceed that number.

Yes, great advice. I didn't *consciously* do this, but it became rather obvious what the working time was after a few (small) sections.

Even if the polish hasn't flashed over, you still should use a QD to remove the residue. The abrasives in 105 don't break down, so it is still highly abrasive when you remove it. The additional lube in the QD will keep you from marring the paint when you remove the residue.

This I didn't do, but I should have....and will in the future.

The best success I've had with 105 so far has been to only do one pass through each row, with a ten second work time. Then, after removing the residue, do a visual inspection. If an additional pass is needed, start a new application, and again do one pass through the work area. Second applications/passes are seldom needed. In that one pass (ten seconds worth), you will have removed as much clear as a full minute's worth of buffing with M95. It's also much better to take your time and evaluate whether a second pass is needed when you're not on a ten second decision clock. Don't get in the habbit of just doing a second pass without determining if it needs it first. Don't let the one pass, short work time, and great finish fool you; you just removed a boat load of clear in that one pass.

Good advice. The paint on this hood definitely required more than one pass with the 105, and then needed to be finished with SIP.

OK, one last thing to clarify... as you do each row, keep moving the buffer head the same direction: toward the end of the row. If you're going to move left to right through your row, keep the buffer head moving to the right *all the time*. *Don't* go back to the left unless you have determined that you *need* a second pass. If you do need a second pass, then once you have reached the end of the row, move the buffer head back toward the start of the row, again without ever changing direction. Keep it moving to the left. DON'T EVER MOVE YOUR BUFFER HEAD IN ANY DIRECTION EXCEPT TOWARD THE END OF YOUR ROW. Anytime you go back over paint you just buffed, you just doubled the amount of clear removed. You'll end up with not level clear if you inconsistently move the pad back and forth. Start at the beginning of row one, then without ever changing direction, go to the end of row one.



Well, by now I either helped, or totally confused you. Hope I helped.

Very helpful, as usual, and I appreciate it.

Excellent job! :2thumbs:

Thanks DaGonz!



Have a great Memorial Day everyone! :usa

 

[Rob Tomlin]

Nice Rob! Tell your friend nice shop also!

Thanks Patrick.



Yeah, I've told my friend "nice shop" plenty of times already! In appreciation for detailing his truck, he said I can feel free to detail any other vehicles in his shop, even if he isn't home. How cool is that? :up

 

[Bigpikle]

superb work Rob - looks to be some complex curves and angles to deal with on that body :2thumbs:



I used 105 very briefly at a detailing meet this weekend, but didnt have the issues you mention, although only working on scrap panels. I hope I dont have to do a car that needs THAT level of correction for a long while



Looks like an amazing transformation you should be proud off

 

[Rickrack]

Looks much, much better Rob! Your friend must have been pretty pleased with the results. It looks like a different truck now that you have worked your magic on it!



I am really loving that 55' in the background though! Can't wait to see the pictures of that after you detail it. Sweet car.



That is one sweet garage! Very clean and clutter free.



Nice work!!

 

[Bruce B]

Nice job Rob ! Now I have "shop envy" !



BTW, it's a "55" chevy. I was wondering why you didn't try wet sanding the hood to level it out before compounding ?

 

[Rob Tomlin]

superb work Rob - looks to be some complex curves and angles to deal with on that body :2thumbs:



I used 105 very briefly at a detailing meet this weekend, but didnt have the issues you mention, although only working on scrap panels. I hope I dont have to do a car that needs THAT level of correction for a long while



Looks like an amazing transformation you should be proud off

Thanks. I'm happy to hear that you didn't have the issues that I had with M105. It was very humid that day, so I think that may have been part of the problem.

Looks much, much better Rob! Your friend must have been pretty pleased with the results. It looks like a different truck now that you have worked your magic on it!



I am really loving that 55' in the background though! Can't wait to see the pictures of that after you detail it. Sweet car.



That is one sweet garage! Very clean and clutter free.



Nice work!!

Thanks Rick! Yes, my friend is very happy with the results. He didn't have high expectations, so he was really surprised that it turned out as good as it did.



Yes, I am really looking forward to detailing the 55 Chevy! The paint on that car is in pretty decent shape, but it definitely has some swirls in it, and the paint is quite rough to the touch, so it definitely needs a good claying and polishing. No M105 on that car though!

Nice job Rob ! Now I have "shop envy" !



BTW, it's a "55" chevy. I was wondering why you didn't try wet sanding the hood to level it out before compounding ?

LOL at the shop envy! He's always wanted a shop like this (since working on cars in high school). They just moved in a couple of weeks ago, and I think he is already spending more time out there than in the house!



Yes, this paint was definitely a candidate for wet sanding. The main reasons we didn't were we weren't sure how much paint was actually remaining, and I have not wet sanded a car since high school. Also, I wanted to see what the M105 would do without wet sanding.



If things had not gotten better, (and at first they didn't look good) we probably would have gone down and bought some sandpaper to give wet sanding a try.

 

[Holden_C04]

There is quite a noticeable difference in gloss and wetness in the after picture. Great job! It looks like there is a grainy texture to the paint that would require a wetsand to remove, though.