#16 following NXT??

A

ACURA95

New member
I have read several posts with people having good results using two or so coats of nxt tech wax followed by #16. To me, this sounds like the best of both worlds having a synthetic wax and then coating with a carnuba "ultimate protection".



My question is after you coat with #16 can you continue to coat with nxt for maintainence? By doing this does it make the application of the #16 pointless?



Too look at it from another prospective, after following the same process, (nxt, then #16) can you just apply the nxt booster over the #16 even though the tech wax is underneath?



The last process i am considering is to simply apply the booster over the nxt every couple of weeks and reapply nxt every two months or so. Seems the most simple but might not have the best results.



I read both products are great for black cars in bringing out a deep finish but I dont want to waste my time either.



Sorry if this sounds kind of confusing, and any advice or interjection will be more than appreciated. TIA
 
Good questions,



I will try to apply a coat of #16 over a coat of NXT Tech Wax and then capture the difference, if any, with my camera.



As far as the products and what you propose to try, I would suggest trying it and see what kind of results you get. A lot of people will say that the cleaners in the Tech Wax will simply remove the coating of #16.



I would say "Maybe". Maybe some of it, probably not all of it. It depends on how you apply it. Aggressively, using your application material and pressure, or gently using a clean soft foam applicator pad and gently apply a coat of the NXT Tech Wax.



So try it, see what you get and see if you like what you see.



As far as using the NXT Spray Wax over the #16 PPW, you might consider using the Meguiar's Quik Wax instead as it contains some Carnauba wax and the Tech Wax contains only synthetic ingredients. (Besides the water).



I'm working on a "How To" article for using Meguiar’s Spray Waxes which should be done by tonight/tomorrow/Sunday. I have to wait for the sun to go down to apply the products and take the pictures because it's about 94 degrees outside right now.



Mike
 
thanks for the advice bob, Maybe you or Mike can help me with this one.

I began the first few stages of my car detail restoration yesterday. A friend of mine helped me because I was using a rotary for the first time and was afraid of burning the paint.



I used Dacp with a wool pad and it took off all the oxidation and dead paint (single stage) and when I followed with #80 with a 3m variable contact black foam pad. I also used it on the rotary.



After finishing, I could see all the major swirls were gone but there are marks from the rotary pad up and down the hood and other areas. I did some reading about using the PC which I also have but have not used yet because of a lack of pads. I would think maybe I need to foam pad it with the PC but I dont know which pads to order. Would the Meguiars pad kit work?



Just to make an observation, the rotary did such a nice job, do I really need a PC now? I talked to a couple of painters and they said it was a waste. Not to add to this mess, but I might still get a fresh paint job with a clearcoat in a few months.
 
I can't use a rotary for crap, but if you have rotary-induced marring, you probably want to either practice a bit more, use less speed and a less aggressive pad, or try the PC to remove them. If they aren't real deep, the PC should work fine to remove rotary holograming. I've done this to remove holograming from the local paint shop (when the 200SX got rear-ended) and it has never come back after a wash.



The Meg's PC pad pack is nice because you get 2 polishing pads and a finishing pad for $25. I like the quality of Meg's pads (I've never had the velcro separation some people have had, though).



The PC might also be useful for maintenance stuff. Once the paint is restored and corrected, you wont' need a lot of action to keep it nice. The PC is easier to use and doesn't sling as much, so you could use it for the regular polish/wax sessions instead of a rotary. I think even Mike (who's rotary skill is amazing! :bow) uses the PC for stuff like liquid wax application.



I'm not a rotary person by any stretch, but hopefully that's sort of helpful? :)
 
Bob, what you said is helpful and I was very nervous using the rotary the first time but since my car is a single stage after market paint job, I wasnt that worried about burning through the paint. Its got a lot of layers on it.



If I was buffing a factory paint job or maybe one with a fresh clearcoat I would be extremely nervous and I guess is where the PC comes in.



Do you have a picture or link to hallowgramming so I can see if that is what it is?
 
Hmm, no. I think 2HotFord might have posted one, though? Or somebody did...



It's like millions of tiny little swirls very very close together. You have to shift your angle of viewing and lighting to see them. What you'll see, though, is that they form sort of a pattern that traces out the path the buffer took. You can literally see where the buffer went back and forth over the panel. But the pattern is made up of millions of tiny marks.



Edit: I did a search for "picture rotary hologram*" and got this:



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15574&highlight=picture+rotary+hologram*



That shot by Intel, not 2Hot (mehh, they are both Ford truck guys...) is pretty good. It's hard to capture it, though, as you have to shift back and forth a bit to see it run down a panel (hence the "hologram" term). So a picture only gets a little bit of it.
 
Bob,



The picture in that thread is very similar to what looks like the problem Im having. I dont know if there hollograms or not but It would be great to get rid of them. Its the picture that intel submitted. What do you think?
 
Rebuff the panel using the #83/Rotary Buffer/foam polishing pad.



Wool pads cause swirls. Each one of the fibers in a wool pad, whether it's a cutting pad or a finishing pad instills buffer swirl, also called holograms.



Remove the wool from the equation.



After using the rotary buffer, redo the area with a W-8006 foam polishing pad and the #83. Then you can apply a pure polish or go straight to wax.



Mike
 
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