1500->2000 without buffing?

Brenton

Brenton

aka PEI Detail
A wetsanding question.

When I've had to go to 1500 grit, I usually do 1500, buff, 2000, buff. But I saw a guy on TV Saturday go 1500, then 2000, then 2500, then 3000, and finally buffed.

Am I doing it wrong? Or is that guy wrong.

And has anyone done enough wetsanding to know whether you can finish with 1500?
 
PEI Detail said:
A wetsanding question.

When I've had to go to 1500 grit, I usually do 1500, buff, 2000, buff. But I saw a guy on TV Saturday go 1500, then 2000, then 2500, then 3000, and finally buffed.

Am I doing it wrong? Or is that guy wrong.

And has anyone done enough wetsanding to know whether you can finish with 1500?
Click to expand...

I start with the least aggressive then buff a bit and check the results....this is on paint only...fro plastic headlights I start out a little more aggressive then reduce down until I have a fine hazing then buff like a mad man
 
Beemerboy said:
I start with the least aggressive then buff a bit and check the results....this is on paint only...fro plastic headlights I start out a little more aggressive then reduce down until I have a fine hazing then buff like a mad man
Click to expand...
Have you ever melt the the lens on the headlights? I did a small area on a bumber once directly behind the rear license plate ,it wasn't noticable because i caught it in time,btw i was using a PC at the time when this happen..
 
joe.p said:
Have you ever melt the the lens on the headlights? I did a small area on a bumber once directly behind the rear license plate ,it wasn't noticable because i caught it in time,btw i was using a PC at the time when this happen..
Click to expand...

no never melted the lights but I have wet samded threw the clear coat...thank god it was my car:)

That's how I learn to wet sand
 
Beemerboy said:
I start with the least aggressive then buff a bit and check the results....this is on paint only...fro plastic headlights I start out a little more aggressive then reduce down until I have a fine hazing then buff like a mad man
Click to expand...

To clarify:
-plastic not paint
-this is after a 2500 or 2000 check

I just tried doing 1500 then 2000 without buffing after 1500 on a blue Toyota, and no problems visible. Is this okay? normal?
 
Unless you are wetsanding orange peel or paint runs, its not neccesary to wetsand with an aggresive paper. Usually 2000 does the trick in 99% of the time.

I find it a good practive to finish wet sanding first then buff, however depending on the job , you have to wetsand, buff a small area to see the results and go from there.
 
You only need to buff once man. I'll normaly use 2-3 different grits and then buff at the end. Your wasting your time buffing between each grit. If your unsure of yourself and thats why you need to buff inbetween each girt find someone who knows what they are doing and get a few lessons.
 
Definitely only need to buff once. The omnipresent 'they' say to start with lighter grit and work your way down;however, I have found through personal experience I can start at 1500 and often times that is enough. The trick is knowing what grade(s) is going to accomplish the desired results. I think 'they' want you too start with 2000 to be on the safe side so as not to be overly aggressive.
 
"They," ya, they are always out to get us!!!

This was deep scratch repair, so 1500 had to be tried. I used 1500 then 2000 then buffed, and was pleased with the result. I found it a little more difficult to bring back on the bumper, but I'm pleased.

Thank you for the results. Has anyone tried 2000->2500?
 
On plastic,I sand with 1500 unigrit, buff with powergloss and a wool pad. It honestly takes 15 minutes to tape off, sand, and buff. I also spend another 30 seconds or so going over the area with a light compound and polish if I am polishing paint as well. 20 minutes and I make $50. I've never heard of buffing between sanding steps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top