AIO vs. SG

HondaMan

HondaMan

2004 Civic EX magnesium
Just curious....the SG bottle says to use about 2 oz. per car (about 1/8th of the bottle)....does anybody find that they're using MORE or LESS of AIO for a single layer? I think I used closer to 1 oz. when I used AIO a few weeks ago...I haven't used SG yet so I don't know about the viscosity, etc and how much pours out. I just remember I was using about 1 oz. of product for all my stuff (AIO, UPP, etc) and was curious when I saw that 2oz mention on the back of the SG bottle.

FWIW, I re-did my car with QD+ over the weekend after my brother in law re-stained it with the shore hose (spots on the hood again). This time, in yesterday's rain, it did NOT stain. Must have been the sap from the tree last week and dirty minerals in the shore hose that left the marks.
 
AIO and SG are tow different things. I use PB P-w-C as an AIO and I have never really measured the amount of product that I have used. I'd have to guess that its about 1 to 2 oz per car. I have never used the Klasse SG but have read great things about it. I do have Klasse AIO and found it to be OK, the smell was like someone was cutting cheese:lmfao I use it in the door jambs now trying to finish up the bottle
 
I use more AIO per vehicle than SG. AIO can be layed down thicker and removed easier. SG is a final sealant glaze and needs to be applied very thinly. Otherwise, it is a PITA to remove. Works great though. Leave a very reflective shine and is extremely durable. When I use SG, I like to top it with a good carnauba to give it a more deep natural shine.
 
I was puzzled by the 2 oz. suggestion per car. I have used it three times now and did not in any way use that much per car. In fact, I put it on too heavily the first time I used it and still it wasn't 2 oz. I thought it strange such instructions.
 
I was curious about this a while back and I measured how much AIO and SG I use by putting the product in some of those little plastic "ketchup" containers they give you in some fast food places. FWIW, the ones I found hold exactly one ounce....

On a Lexus 430:

Almost exactly one ounce of AIO did the whole vehicle. I was able to do the windows (all around) by using what was left in my foam applicator and wiping the last bit out of the plastic container.

Just under one ounce for the SG.

BTW, Beemerboy, if you wanna send me your AIO I'll put it to better use than on the door jambs!

blue skies,
Andrew
 
Aos, others, tell me: if you had 2 idential cars, and one had just been AIO'd and the other SG'd, would you guys be able to tell the difference between them, look- or feel-wise?

SG is basically AIO without the polishers. It's pure glaze.
 
Oh you can definately tell the difference when SG has been applied. It is extremely glossy. And SG is it's own formula, not just AIO without the cleaners.
 
HondaMan said:
Thanks, Ace ! What year is your Vette?
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No prob Honda, and it's not my Vette, it's a customers. It is a 2004 C5 custom Corvette. Believe it or not, the owner won this car in a raffle at the Corvette Museum. He was allowed to pick and choose any Vette model he wanted with whatever options he wanted and this was it. After a good wash and clay, I hit this baby with VM by PC @ 4.5 and followed with UPP. Turned out great. Now I have to go set it up for the winter storage with some Klasse. He'll have it up on blocks soon for that. Truly a sweet car and a real rewarding experience.
 
Ace Of Spades said:
... and followed with UPP. Turned out great. Now I have to go set it up for the winter storage with some Klasse. He'll have it up on blocks soon for that.
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Why switch from UPP to Klasse for winter storage? I've been using UPP and while it doesn't seem quite as durable as my old AIO/SG combination, it doesn't seem to lose it that much quicker.

umm, UPP=Platinum Ultimate Paint Protection, right??

Is there something I'm missing?

thanks,
Andrew
 
Isn't UPP a followup to AIO or AIO+SG? They're all acrylics or resins, so they layer easy.

I did my Civic with AIO + 2 UPP and it came out great. Does anybody STOP detailing a car at the SG stage? I know you can theoretically do that (I used to Liquid Glass my Vette but that was before I knew the difference between sealants, waxes, etc) but I thought SG was never supposed to be a car's final layer.
 
hook said:
Why switch from UPP to Klasse for winter storage? I've been using UPP and while it doesn't seem quite as durable as my old AIO/SG combination, it doesn't seem to lose it that much quicker.

umm, UPP=Platinum Ultimate Paint Protection, right??

Is there something I'm missing?

thanks,
Andrew
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Andrew, I'm just going with what I know, and what the customer wants. SG is the most durable sealant I've used to date, and this guy wants that (and he's paying the bill).

BTW, just because a company names a product Ultimate Paint Protection doesn't mean that it "is" the ultimate paint protection. This is not a slam on UPP, I have a couple of bottles of it and love it. I use it all the time including on my own vehicles.
 
HondaMan said:
Isn't UPP a followup to AIO or AIO+SG? They're all acrylics or resins, so they layer easy.

I did my Civic with AIO + 2 UPP and it came out great. Does anybody STOP detailing a car at the SG stage? I know you can theoretically do that (I used to Liquid Glass my Vette but that was before I knew the difference between sealants, waxes, etc) but I thought SG was never supposed to be a car's final layer.
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I wouldn't say UPP is a follow up to AIO+SG. UPP is a high quality sealant in it's own right. I could see topping AIO with UPP. But not SG. Personally I've never topped an Acrylic sealant (SG) with a polymer sealant (UPP). I don't know if you'd have bonding issues or not. Maybe someone else here has tried it and can speak up. And why can't SG be the final layer? It has a great shine and is very durable. I've done it in the past and I'll do it again.

Hope this helps.
 
Honda, if I use SG it is always my final step (with the occasional exception of using a carnuba topper to finish off the look) what do you follow SG up with? And why can't it be the final step, it provides great durability and protection?
 
Ok I'm confused...or was confused.

When I first came to this site, I wanted to learn all the steps in sequence. What I did on my family cars was:

(1) Wash and dry
(2) Clay
(3) AIO
(4) UPP coat
(5) 2nd UPP coat next day

I didn't have UGE which I understand can replace the 2nd UPP coat.

NOW....I thought AIO was a combination sealant AND cleaner (the all-in-one name)....since I didn't stop at that sealant phase, now that I have SG (I didn't a few weeks ago), I didn't think it'd be my final layer now.

Remember, I asked about Liquid Glass, another sealant, and said that I used to use it as my final layer 15 years ago because I didn't know better. I didn't know about acrylic or polymer finishers then, and I wasn't using a (carnuba) wax. So then, the sealant was final.

I realize you don't hurt yourself with the sealant as the final layer, but I thought the sealant "seals" -- that is, protects the clear, washed, and clayed paint below. Then, you want something to PROTECT that sealant -- hence why you use (1) UPP or a polymer (2) wax (3) extra layers of sealant.

The only "no-no" I thought of was that you can't layer (carnuba) waxes and mix them with acrylics or polymers. Since I added one a few weeks ago, I am sticking with that for a few weeks/months, before I "strip everyting" with another claying/AIO and then use my SG for winter protection.

But now I'm not sure if on top of the SG I'll go with UPP/UGE.....I think I will, unless you guys say otherwise....at a minimum, it's cheaper than applying another layer of SG for extra winter protection.

BTW, I also have Poorboys EX-P (I think that's the pure sealant), I presume anyplace I use SG (not AIO) I could also use EX-P
 
I think part of my problem is the terminology: I thought UPP was a polymer substitute for (carnuba) wax, not another sealant.

I think the bottom line is: I have too much damn stuff from our sponsors!!! : )
 
Honda man,

Sealants are the sealant. They don't need to be layered to be protected. There are many different sealants. Best I know of are UPP, Klasse SG, EX-P, Wolfgang, NXT. These are all synthetic products, and all polymer/resin based except the Klasse SG which is acryllic. All of these products are designed to be used as a final layer offering great shine and ultimate protection. If you decide to layer these products, use the same sealant to layer the first. You can (and I often do) add a layer of carnauba wax on top of the sealant just for a different look. Hopefully this clears things up for you.
 
HondaMan said:
Ok I'm confused...or was confused.

When I first came to this site, I wanted to learn all the steps in sequence. What I did on my family cars was:

(1) Wash and dry
(2) Clay
(3) AIO
(4) UPP coat
(5) 2nd UPP coat next day

That's the same basic procedure I follow. Instead of the clay, which I don't think I need, I use Meguiar's #9 Swirl Mark Remover.
1. Wash & dry
2. Meg's #9 (only a couple of times a year)
3. AIO (about every 3 months)
4. UPP (every month)

I didn't have UGE which I understand can replace the 2nd UPP coat.

Here is where we part company. UGE is a quick detail product. It will clean fingerprints, bird crap, minor dust, and leave a great shine. (That's why it's called Gloss Enhancer) It is not a wax and won't do much if anything to protect your paint. IMO, A second coat of UPP would be much more beneficial.
UGE is basically an appearance product, not a protection product. (I think)

Charles
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Thanks Charles and AoS...I think I got it now (whew! finally!).

One last thing...I know I can't throw in carnuba waxes into my 5-step process and then go back to acrylics or resins. AoS, you said keep layering the same product -- if I stayed with what I typed above 1-5, would that be OK? Is putting UPP on top of AIO or AIO/SG ok? They're all synthetics -- that's the common denominator, albeith slightly different products and different manufacturers.

I realize this might not be cut and dried and maybe somebody keeps using common sealants and somebody changes types, but unless someone tells me I'm definitely wrong -- like applying synthetics to NXT or carnubas or other non-layerables -- I would like to stick to my 1-5 process.

Of course, I realize now I can just add multiple layers of SG (not AIO, which isn't a pure sealant, right) and eliminate the UPP steps.
 
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