Wetsanding guru's come inside PLEASE.. 56k warning!

Steve
Down and back would be one pass. Just till you get a feel for how much paint you are removing. Take it slow bettrer to be safe than sorry. When your paper gets old it will not cut as fast. Save these pices you can use them on youe rounded edges. If you use the 3M paper cut it in half it will be eaiser to manage. Good tip from tpgsr dont use alot of pressure its not a pice of wood you are sanding.
Good luck.

Ron

Rons Dents & Details
 
Jim
I would like to know how the seminar went. Please post some info when you are back.
Tell berry I said HI. Ask him wich polish he is using on his teeth. Ha Ha.

Good Luck

Ron

Rons Dents & Details
 
wifehatescar said:
reflection of the owner on the rear 1/4

WHAT THE HECK ARE THE LINES IN THE PAINT ABOVE WHERE HIS HEAD IS?
Click to expand...

Those lines are what are called Shrink-back or Die-back. It's when the paint sucks back into the prep-work sanding and scuffing marks as it dries, it can take weeks to happen.

We recently buffed out a 1970 Corvette that had a lot of Die-back in the finish and the owner told us it didn't show up till a year later.

My own 73 Blazer has Die-back and it not only looks horrible, but the only way to fix it is to re-paint.

Mike
 
kimwallace said:
Unless I had painted this car myself and knew how much paint was on it, I wouldn't take on the job.
Actually if I had painted it myself, I would have wet sanded the paint and sprayed on another coat.
The other problem is ... the car is black and as you know it will show every imperfection that is in the paint.
Just my opinion ... sorry :(
Click to expand...

I agree with Kim, I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole.

It's a horrible paint job to start with. It should have been sanded a day or two after it was painted, depending on the painter and the paint system he used.

The only way I would take this job is if I could contact the painter and ask him how many coats of paint did he apply and what type of gun did he use.

If he only applied 3-coats of paint, (normal), then I would walk away. You might get luck in the easy to sand and buff areas like the hood or deck lid, but as soon as you get into the tighter areas, or around body lines and edges, you're going to go through. It's so easy to do, even if your good at this type of thing.

I don't know what you're charging, and if your customer is the kind of guy that won't expect for you to pay for a repaint should you burn through, then maybe go for it. But from what I can see in the pictures, and the way you've described the situation, I wold walk away.

Mike
 
Well, lots of talk about nothing, hehe. Through much deliberation of the situation, I decided to talk myself out of wetsanding. Then I talked the customer out of wetsanding ;)

For what he wanted (toy for the wife, not a show car), it just wasn't worth the risk *to me*.

I was so nervous on the way to his house about the wetsanding I forgot my MF and pads :wait :lol Had to turn around and go back for them.

I did a test spot on the trunk, used:

SSR2.5 on rotary with light cutting pad x 2
SSR2.5 on PC speed 5 light cutting pad x 1
SSR1 on PC polish pad x 1

It took out all the light oxidation and 80% of the scratches (look like brush-washing scratches). It did not really touch the OP. I took some pics but they did not come out:( I showed him the difference and he was "satisfied" with the improvement---that's good enough for me! I may go JUST a bit more aggressive over the rest of the car.

I'm doing a thourough inside and out for him this weekend for a total of 10 hrs.
The car is a 73' Mercedes 450SL 2 door.

When I was done he wiped the trunk with a dirty old towel..... :rolleyes: ...I told him I would leave him some MF when I was done I'll post pics on Sunday.

uh, thanks for all the wetsanding advice :D:D:D
 
Mike Phillips said:
Those lines are what are called Shrink-back or Die-back. It's when the paint sucks back into the prep-work sanding and scuffing marks as it dries, it can take weeks to happen.

We recently buffed out a 1970 Corvette that had a lot of Die-back in the finish and the owner told us it didn't show up till a year later.

My own 73 Blazer has Die-back and it not only looks horrible, but the only way to fix it is to re-paint.

Mike
Click to expand...
Thanks for the explaination! I'll make a point to tell the customer so it sounds like *I* know what I'm talking about :D
 
Update to the saga :rolleyes:

The customer calls and is no longer happy with the test spot on the trunk and wants me to sand just the trunk lid. I agreed...after I basically told him I would not pay for a repaint. The paint is not that soft so hopefully that will help a bit. He *swears* the car has "too much paint on it"

So, I'll have wetsanding pics Sunday afterall Wish me luck...I'm only going to use 3000 grit, no less.

PS - If he asks me to wetsand any other part of the car, I going to tell him to stick it you know where :angry :duel
 
This sounds like a pandora's box
Is there anyway to walk away from it??
Because this sounds like your gonna get sucked in even further

"J"
 
Just a tip,

When sanding the deck lid/trunk lid, don't sand to close to any edges, in fact keep about 3/4" away.

Here's a good rule of thumb,

"Don't sand where you cannot buff"

After sanding, as you move you buffer over the panel, your buffer will always tend to creep a little, even if you have massive arm muscles. You don't want to have to buff to close to any edges because if your buffing pad/compound creeps to close over an edge, too many times, you risk burning through. This is especially true when working on cured paint because you'll have to push harder and be more aggressive to get your sanding marks out.

Also, remember that your compounding process will remove paint, for this reason, if you remove most, (not all), of the orange peel with your sanding process, your compound process will remove even more and possible give you the result you want.

Point is, you don't always have to completely sand out all of the orange peel to get the look your after. Your compound process will do some of that for you.

Be careful, focus on the task at hand, follow up with a good polishing with a less aggressive cleaner/polish, apply two good coats of wax, and try to leave him happy.

Mike
 
Last year two people approached me and asked me to wet-sand, cut and buff their new cars to remove the orange peel look.

I turned them both down. Factory paint too hard, too thin. Instead what I told them is, because this is a new car, and requires no body work, take it you a good body shop and have it repainted, and tell the painter you want extra coats of paint applied and then you want the finish wet-sanded to remove the peel.

They both thought I was crazy.

I have a car coming up I have been asked to do the wet-sand, cut and buff on, it's a car build by Boyd Coddington called "Chezoom". Before they paint it, I have asked to meet with the painter to discuss time lines, type of paint, number of coats, etc.

Mike
 
Mike-

Every word is like gold to me, I understand what you are saying and I appreciate it!!!! :)

jay-

The deck lid will draw the line for me. Only reason I agreed is it should have decent paint on it and it is FLAT. He's friends with alot of other good possible future clients so I want to impress them and do a good job, meet the customer expectations, etc.
 
the car may have been repainted with a single stage paint. in that case, i wouldnt go to drastic with the wet sanding. the lines in the pic are the paint laying in the body filler scratches before sanding. the car was definitely not prepped right before painting. nothing you can do to get rid of them except minor touch up bodywork
 
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