Any chance here? (removing a scratch)

MattS

MattS

Oh no, another engineer!
Just need to ground myself on this scratch (see picture). Can feel the scratch with my finger, not sure if it goes past the clear coat or not, but my first guess is yes. Any recommendations on a) removing the scratch or b) signficantly diminish appearance. Because of the location relative to the lexus badge and the spoiler, gonna have to be by hand. I have a pretty good sense to get it "hide" it if it goes all the way down but looking for recommendations to try first.

Thanks
-Matt

PS ... hope the image works, sorry if it doesn't.
 
Hey, it's worth a try.
My van was recently scratched, (keyed?), and the PC with Meguiar's Scratch-X, and some Meguiar's #9 removed or at least diminished them to the point that I really have to look for them in the right light to find them. That was 3 or 4 weeks ago and I have used AIO on that area since so I think it did more than just fill them. If it had just filled them, wouldn't the AIO have removed the fillers? Anyway, the combination worked for me.
 
By hand?

Charles,

Thanks for your feedback. I will not be able to get a PC head in there, nor would I want to risk the closeness to the emblem. Do you think I will have moderate success at this area by hand? I will be detailing this vehicle this weekend, so it will be a good try, no significant harm can come from trying by hand anyways. The owner is not "super" picky, so if I can get it to moderately disappear from reasonable range, he will be happy. I will post the after picture for everyone's benefit.

Thanks again!
-Matt
 
Its kind of hard to see the scratch but what I do is. Try a heavy cut liquid compound first. If that dose not work, then you could try 2000 grit sand paper.

I know this sounds scary but its really not that hard. Take a small section of the sand paper, wet the area down with water and LIGHTLY sand the area. You will see the area get a dull finish and have real small scrathes. Then use your compound to rebuff the area. I have done this on my BMW countless times and never had a problem. I use the 3M products for the compounds and they are great. If you want e-mail me and I can send you pics of a black car that I did this on before and after.
 
Compunds by Hand

Beemerboy,

What applicator would you use for the compounds. I need reasonable control and have to stay way from the emblem, tricky place. I am okay with the sanding, most people dont realize wet sanding with high grit is how other industries polish :)

Thanks for the feedback, I am actually looking forward to the challenge this weekend.

By and by, would you know where I can get the 3M stuff in a local capacity? Any major chains carry the stuff?

Thanks
-Matt
 
Don't want tyo get the web master in an up roar about product promo's but. I use Perfect-it 11 liquid rubbing compound by 3M. Then finish that with polish and then wax. Because its a small area you can do all this by hand. You can also tape the emblem area off if you have concerns about wax or hitting it.

Sen me an e-mail and I will send you pics of the car that I did, you could not see the scrathes at all.
 
Beemerboy said:
Don't want to get the web master in an up roar about product promo's but.
Click to expand...
Beemerboy:
You might want to cut Dwayne, (Webmaster), a little slack on his product promo policy. All he asks is that people don't come to the site and attempt to sell their products. If you want to tell someone about a product, there isn't a problem with that.

The following text is from a recent post from Dwayne.
___________________________________________
I feel the need to clarify our policy for links.

"As long as it is simply detailers helping other detailers to find ways and products to make detailing easier, we encourage links that make this possible.
Our only concern is that distributors, vendors, and individuals do not see Detail City as a way of direct or indirect advertising for products and or services that are in competition with the sponsor of Detail City."
____________________________________________

So, post away with suggestions for products and sources.:) I can use all the help & hints I can get.:p
 
The emblem can prolly easily be removed, and worth a little time and effort to save the cost of a relacement.

Usually theyre only retained by some small clips at the back of the panel.

That'll allow you to really get at the scratch properly.

Now, onto the scratch.

If it really is thru the clearcoat, I wouldnt bother trying to sand it out, but maybe get some clear touchup and fill it in.

Sanding is VERY dangerous as its so easy to make the damage look 10 times worse.

'Feather sanding' works by flattening out the edges of the scratch to make it more of a 'dip' that doesnt look so abrupt.
It takes alot of experience and skill to do it correctly tho.

I use 1500 grit and soapy water until im happy it looks as good as its going to get, then buff out the sanding marks with a PC and Diamond Cut.
Even something as abrasive as that took 3 or 4 passes to get all the marks out.
Then finish off as normal.


Just my 0.02.
 
Here's My Plan

Great input guys!

Here is my plan of attack:

Wash, clay .. blah blah ....
Tape Off Emblem for Protection (unless it really is easily removed)
Meg's #9

If that does not work, I will try something a little more agressive, all by hand though.

If it is through the clear coat, I have touch up for this car and will take a REALLY fine brush and put a few very light coats in until I get just above the surface and then I will wet sand smooth

AOI
UPP
Sleep
UPP

I am looking forward to it now, love a nice little challenge, plus I have a few scrathes on my car that are similar that would require the same effort. (Not that I want to practice on a customer or anything.)

I am very encouraged as Beemerboy sent me som pics of a car that had very similar scratches and he did a great job of cleaning them up!

Keep em coming!!!

Thanks
-Matt
 
WAIT....odds are the Emblem is held on by an adhesive...many manufacturers stopped using emblems that have 'posts' going through the sheet metal years ago. Actually though, that's a good thing because it eliminates a rust hazard and with the 'post held' emblems, if one post breaks, the emblem will swing back and forth, destroying the finish in the area.

I agree with taping off the emblem, and using 1500 + grit paper to make the scratch less pronounced. But after a few light passes with the 1500 & compound, if it's not improved, odds are it can't be. Quit while you're ahead.
 
hehe call me a fool. A scratch like that STARTS with 1500 that does not work then i go to 500! keep wet sanding till it is gone or at ther VERY first sight of color come out stop. If ou JUST barely get all the way through the clear it can still come out perfect. Trust me i've done it. But it's not easy or very safe. Just saying most anything is posible. This is also not the preferd method. But when it comes to this or repainting a pannel in the body shop we resort to this sometimes.
 
No disrespect to the webmaster at all just did not want to mention ant products that might compete with the sponsors
 
Beemerboy said:
No disrespect to the webmaster at all just did not want to mention ant products that might compete with the sponsors
Click to expand...
Hey, I didn't say anything about showing him any respect, just cut him a little slack. Have to give that respect thing some thought.:D

Actually the entire "City" is pretty laid back and not really into the ego thing. Kind of nice for a change. :)
 
You said it charles. That's the only reason i'm here! The people on this board like you and many others are not about showing off and selling stuff. It's all about helping others out and learning. It's one of my favorite forum i'm on!
 
Detail City Is the Best!

I AGREE!:D

This is the best site around. Everyone gets along & we try to help each other. That is what it is all about.

"Detail City" is the best
 
Koop said:
You said it charles. That's the only reason i'm here! The people on this board like you and many others are not about showing off and selling stuff. It's all about helping others out and learning. It's one of my favorite forum i'm on!
Click to expand...

Darn it!

I guess you guys won't put up with me if I start doing the hard sell to get my Bimmer soon!

LOL

I agree with you guys! Detail City is here for you, the members! Of course I will be here if you need me but only when you need me.
Otherwise I will be waxing my truck.
 
I love classics and all their emblems have posts.

:o

Oopps.

Never mind.

If its glued on, i guess taping it off works :)

As for attacking it with 500 grit - :eek: :eek:

But yeah, itll cut it down fast, and bodyshops get really good at avoiding repainting panels at any cost.

My buddy used to fix cracked plastic bumpers with a soldering iron ;)

They came out awesome too .... then the shop would charge the customer for a new bumper.

Thats business I guess.
 
I'm with charles on that one! if we fix it you get charged for a reapir! I'm going to have to try that soldering iron trick though! that sounds like a great idea.
 
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