Let's discuss how strong SSR3/yellow pad/PC combo is

wifehatescar

wifehatescar

My L5-S1 is killing me!
I just did my first full detail to a 2001 Accord.
It had real bad etched waterspots on the horizontals and bad scratching on the trunk lid.
I did 2 passes on the trunk lid with SSR3/yellow cutting pad/PC on speed 6.
It looked better (and by the way did not haze/micro-mar from what I could see) but the water spots (etched I'm sure) and heavier scratches were still there. I followed up with SSR2/yellow pad and then topped it with EX-P.

Anyway, it seemed, since there was no hazing/micro-marring that this SSR3/yellow pad combo is not as aggressive as I first thought... Although it might not be best to use it all the time.

Anyone else use that combo much? What is your opinion? I'm guessing if it doesn't take care of the defect, then a rotary would be required.

Also, how many people go stright from SSR2 to a wax/sealant? After SSR2 (to me) it doesn't look like SSR1/PP makes a difference at all?
 
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Looks good Steve........Just an FYI though - If this a paying customer or any others than your own, you may want to blur out the license plate......and.........is a that a job description (plate #)
 
I did get haze with SSR3/Meg's red cutting pad so I think it's more of the pad you use than the product. That was at 5.5
 
Fr0zen said:
How strong is SSR3 how much stronger then DACP. ?

Nice work
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SSR2.5 is supposed to be like DACP so SSR3 would be a bit more abrasive than that. I can't say 100% as I don't have SSR3.
 
I would say that SSR 3 compares to Meguiars #84 Compound Power Cleaner.
I used SSR 3 the same as you guys (yellow Meg's Pad) to try and remove some stuborn scratches.
It removed the scratches and did leave some hazing, which in my opinion is perfectly acceptable because of the work the product was doing. It also left some micro scratches (for lack of a better term) probably because the PC didn't have enough action to break down the product completely.
Here is what worked extremely well for me to remove those micro scratches ......
I Used SSR 2 and a Meg's Cutting pad working the product in on about 5 and then as the product started breaking down I cranked up the speed to 6. The micro scratches came out and the hazing turned into a mark free fantastic shine. I then followed up with SSR 1 on the yellow pad and WOW.
I also used SSR 3 to remove some 1500 grit wet sanding marks followed up with the SSR 2 as above. Awesome results (SORRY NO PICS)
It might be me but the SSR 2 and the cutting pad combo came real close to duplicating the results of a rotary.
Next time I might just start with SSR 2 and the Cutting Pad
 
When you get some sun, please repost some of the defects that are left. I've got a black beast that I'm betting have etched H20 Spots in it too and would be interested in how far you were able to get with your approach (I definitely don't use a rotary).

The pics above look great. :cool

Can't wait for your response to Elortt's question. :LOLOL
 
Well it was my mother-in-laws car, she's in DE, I just visited there from MI a week ago.
P-STAR sort of refers to my wifes old horse "Pockets". I think it's kind of a stupid plate though :)
In the future I will block the plate though

The car def has the water spots still there, on close inspection they *look* like they ate through the clear though so SSR3 won't help that...maybe since the car is dark green any marring SSR3 caused was not apparent. I didn't even bother to use SSR1 after the SSR2 and cutting pad it looks good to me (and to the old MIL ;) )

Thought I would mention too that I was not careful about getting the SSR's on black trim and it did not stain any of it. I followed up with TR though it looked good (lower black trim/mud guards/wheel wells)
 
elortt said:
Looks good Steve........Just an FYI though - If this a paying customer or any others than your own, you may want to blur out the license plate......and.........is a that a job description (plate #)
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I don't understand the need to blur out the license plate. Why is that adviseable? Thanks.
 
IMO nowadays alot of info can be obtained just off of a simple license plate number, license plate--> drivers license----> home address-----> social security #...etc.... NOT THAT I THINK ANYONE ON DC WOULD DO THAT!!!! But would you put up your social security number? Alot of images that people put up on sights and forums can be copied, just take a look at google images, I would guess that alot of the people pics that are on there, are there with the actual person having no knowledge of it. Also if you are doing business with a customer and you post their car pics, and in the way off chance something does happen then you are liable (unless they sign a waiver, maybe?). Then again maybe I am just overly cautious....... :dunno

Eric
 
Why would you want a stranger's social security number? I work for a law firm that deals with consumer protection and identity theft. Most Americans have such messed up credit that I don't think I would want to even try ripping off some schmo's SSN for kicks. You run the risk of going to prison for identity theft and you might have stolen an identity that is more messed up than your own. lol If people want to steal my identity then there are a lot easier ways to do it than going off my license plate. For less than the cost of tracking you down with your plate number, all I need is your name and state and I can tell you what your social security number is. The internet is a mighty thing..... I could probably hand you your age and address right now for free with a very simple search.

I'm not saying that its not good to be cautious, but with my experience there are a lot easier ways to get what you want with a lot less risk than with a license plate number. Anyone who would know how to do it with plate #s would be able to do it the other way. Its not as easy as Gone in 60 Seconds makes it look to track people down. ;)

Anyway, back on topic... The car looks really nice. I'm usually not a fan of black cars in low light because it doesn't really show anything. However, in this situation you posted before and after pictures that I find very helpful. Black (or really dark colors like that accord) reflect in any light no matter how dirty or swirled or oxidized they may be. You posting before and after pictures in similar lighting shows how much better it can reflect when polished properly. That is very nice to see. :bigpus You very nearly got the pictures from the exact same angle and exact same lighting. Very impressive indeed. :bow :bow
 
elortt said:
IMO nowadays alot of info can be obtained just off of a simple license plate number, license plate--> drivers license----> home address-----> social security #...etc.... NOT THAT I THINK ANYONE ON DC WOULD DO THAT!!!! But would you put up your social security number? Alot of images that people put up on sights and forums can be copied, just take a look at google images, I would guess that alot of the people pics that are on there, are there with the actual person having no knowledge of it. Also if you are doing business with a customer and you post their car pics, and in the way off chance something does happen then you are liable (unless they sign a waiver, maybe?). Then again maybe I am just overly cautious....... :dunno

Eric
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Not in my book. I think the same way.

Why risk it?
 
I have never gotten hazing from using Poorboy's. I used to get hazing all the time with Griot's when I first started and blamed it on the product but found out I was not working the product in enough. Also, I think it could be the pad. I was using SSR2 on my car with the yellow pad and switched over to the white pad and got better results.
 
I think that most of the hazing we see from products does come from not working the product long enough to allow the diminishing abrasives to actually break down. In some cases I think the products require more friction or being worked than the PC can provide ... an example being SSR 3; I used this with the PC and it left a haze with is normal when you are removing defects (wet sanding leaves a haze) ... However I also had some micro scratches ... when using the same product and pad on my rotary, there were no scratches even though there was some hazing.
When I used the SSR 2 on the cutting pad with the PC... It was only after cranking it up to 6 and working the product that the surface became shiny and mark free.
Years ago, the products did not break down ... so you had to step down in abrasiveness to restore any shine to the paint. These newer products with diminishing abrasives has been a learning experience for me and each day it seems like I learn something new.
 
fyi, the car is a very dark green metallic.

I'm sure there are still swirls and scratches since I was in a hurry, I just thought the biggest difference was how much clearer and shinier the car was afterwords.

I'm not sure if everyone else feels the same but, for a car that has never been polished and has the usual daily driver defects, why not use SSR3/cutting pad EVERYTIME as a first step? This seems to me very safe and would quickly remove most of the defects that can in fact BE removed. i.e. on a car that has never been polished (and will not be polished often) SSR3/cutting pad should (?) be a no-brainer as the starting point (unless the car was maintained very well and is in great condition for some reason)
 
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