I just can't seem to get that perfect pristine look on my black car. Anything i use seems to leave light marrs on my black paint. I cannot get it as smooth looking. 3m SMR, meguiars SFP just doesn't seem to leave my black finish marr free. It looks glossy, shiny under some lights but under direct sunlight i see those very light hazy looking scratches all over the car. How do you guys do it? Do you guys follow something else after any smr's before goin to your waxes or sealants? or it is only possible to get that look by hiding those marrs by a sealant or glazes? I can only see that marks under very high sunlight. what am i doing wrong? I work the product long enough for it to break down to its finest stage but it still doesn't leave a finish like it was from the factory. can someone help me please!!!
Can't get that perfect look!!!
- Thread starter Dtail
- Start date
JimS
Adopt a shelter pet!
I don't have the expertise to help you but I'll bump it back to the top of the new page so you can maybe get some help.
Are you using a PC or doing it by hand? Exactly what process have you followed? How old is the car? I'm sure these questions, and maybe more, will need to be answered prior to making recommendations.
Knowing what I know now I"d call Steve at Poorboys as he has many years experience as professional body shop owner and detailer. www.poorboysworld.com and get his phone number.
Are you using a PC or doing it by hand? Exactly what process have you followed? How old is the car? I'm sure these questions, and maybe more, will need to be answered prior to making recommendations.
Knowing what I know now I"d call Steve at Poorboys as he has many years experience as professional body shop owner and detailer. www.poorboysworld.com and get his phone number.
groebuck
New member
Let's see 
- since I don't know too much about your tools and technique
Sounds like you are using a PC or some type of buffer - 3M SMR for Dark Cars (I am guessing that is what your using) - is a light abrasive with fillers but does a good job at hiding getting rid of swirls.
For technique - are you working in small sections? 2'x'2' ro 3'x2' max. It is best to work in small sections. Start (if you are using a PC) by running the pc at 3 to get coverage with the product. Then switch to 5.5 and work in directions (left to right horizontally, right to left vertically then diagonally from lower left to upper right, then lower right to upper left). Use light to medium pressure on the PC (I use one hand on the back end and the other with my palm on the bend part just behind where the pad is). Use steady even passes - with each pass in the directions above you should see the product go through stages. By the last pass (the lower right to upper left) it should be powder/dry/removing. Stop there and remove the remaining residue with a clean MF towel. Inspect it for results (if you have to take it out of the garage and in to the sun to be sure). If it's what you want cool, move on, if not try another pass using the same method or possibly move up to a more aggressive product.
Hope that helps (OH P.S. since it is swirl marks be sure to use a polishing pad - a cutting pad would be way to aggressive any may add swrils).
- since I don't know too much about your tools and technique Sounds like you are using a PC or some type of buffer - 3M SMR for Dark Cars (I am guessing that is what your using) - is a light abrasive with fillers but does a good job at hiding getting rid of swirls.
For technique - are you working in small sections? 2'x'2' ro 3'x2' max. It is best to work in small sections. Start (if you are using a PC) by running the pc at 3 to get coverage with the product. Then switch to 5.5 and work in directions (left to right horizontally, right to left vertically then diagonally from lower left to upper right, then lower right to upper left). Use light to medium pressure on the PC (I use one hand on the back end and the other with my palm on the bend part just behind where the pad is). Use steady even passes - with each pass in the directions above you should see the product go through stages. By the last pass (the lower right to upper left) it should be powder/dry/removing. Stop there and remove the remaining residue with a clean MF towel. Inspect it for results (if you have to take it out of the garage and in to the sun to be sure). If it's what you want cool, move on, if not try another pass using the same method or possibly move up to a more aggressive product.
Hope that helps (OH P.S. since it is swirl marks be sure to use a polishing pad - a cutting pad would be way to aggressive any may add swrils).
groebuck
New member
doesn't sound like to big of an area (2'x3' is about the size of a door unless you drive a honking big car).
lol. Actually i drive a very tiny car. Mazda miata. I dunno what im doing wrong. I do work the product with enough time but couldn't get the result im looking for. The car looks good and glossy but when taking out on sunlight it looks hazy. I just couldn't get a good result on any meguiar' polishes and compounds. I've heard good things bout poorboy's ssr's and pro polish. If you've used both meguiars and poorboys which one would you prefer for ease of use and better results? I do have menzerna IP and FP but i don't want to use the IP often since its too abrasive for just very light swirls. I did have a very nice result using IP and FP but wanted to give meguiars SFP a try and did not get the same results.
dr_detail
Beautification Specialist
Tried and true method that works for me on Black...
On a clean vehicle that just needs light machine buffer polishing, start with* Auto Magic BC-2 using a foam cutting pad similar to Buff and Shine's 920G. Follow that up with a pass using 3M Perfect-It polishing glaze for dark cars using 3M Perfect-It Foam (waffle) Pad. Finish it of with a thorough rinsing, chamois dry, then apply coat of 3M Imperial Hand Glaze using a good old fashioned diaper....
It might sound like a time consuming method... and I'm sure many of you will let me know of some regional products that work better... but this is what works for me every time (my resume )!!
*If the car needs a little more work, instead of the BC-2, use 3M Finesse-It II
On a clean vehicle that just needs light machine buffer polishing, start with* Auto Magic BC-2 using a foam cutting pad similar to Buff and Shine's 920G. Follow that up with a pass using 3M Perfect-It polishing glaze for dark cars using 3M Perfect-It Foam (waffle) Pad. Finish it of with a thorough rinsing, chamois dry, then apply coat of 3M Imperial Hand Glaze using a good old fashioned diaper....
It might sound like a time consuming method... and I'm sure many of you will let me know of some regional products that work better... but this is what works for me every time (my resume )!!
*If the car needs a little more work, instead of the BC-2, use 3M Finesse-It II
I just polished my car with the menzerna FP, and WOW what a difference! buffing out the SFP off the car feels like removing gum from my paint. it was a pain to remove. So when i used FP it was a breeze. after buffing one panel with FP i also found the increase in gloss. I took it out of the garage to see how it looks like under the sun and the marrings are gone. I think i'll just stick with menzerna polishes since i cant get the desired look im after from meguiars polishes. Even the IP left a more smooth surface than the SFP. The menzerna twins are also easier to use. Thanks for all your help.
KleanFreak
I need more sugar!!!!!!
use your seler last
#1 cleaner
#2 finighing wax
#3 selaer
#1 cleaner
#2 finighing wax
#3 selaer
Zube
New member
like charlesw would tell me.. #9, aio, and upp and you'll never look back... best combo i've ever found.... but i just tried menzerna power gloss for taking out swirls and scratches and its awesome.. not sure which one is better but i can tell you if you use either combo, the black ride will never look better.. i know my granada black acura legend probably couldn't look any better.
I may try the meguiars hand polish since it has very little cut and mostly polish. It may work to remove hazing left by compounds. I just couldn't get the desire look just after a smr. I guess the only way to please me is to follow it with a finer polish to get the perfect look im looking for. Maybe i should also try meguiars #9 since the SFP is so hard to work with. DACP is even a lot easier. SFP gets gummy and a pain to remove on the paint. I really have to put pressure to buff of the remaining residue.