Name your top three finishing/jeweling polishes.

Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish is all I use for awhile now (I have a large bottle) and it always leaves a very glossy, reflective surface.

If AIOs count, Essence is lovely and so is Pinnacle Jeweling Wax (I think same abrasives as my first choice above).
 
acuRAS82 said:
If AIOs count, Essence is lovely and so is Pinnacle Jeweling Wax (I think same abrasives as my first choice above).
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As somebody who simply *LOVES* using AIOs/leaves-stuff-behind products for burnishing, I appreciate your mentioning that (just in case I don`t really have a lifetime supply after all ;) ).
 
Decided to resurrect this 4-year-old thread topic.

Does Jescar`s Micro-Finishing Polish count as a jeweling polish??
Also, could my fellow Autopians list their specific pad manufacturer and foam type/color they are using with a jeweling polish AND the buffing machine they are using. Just a request to know how jeweling (OK, Accumulator: burnishing) is being done these days.

Still waiting to hear if anyone is using P&S Renny Doyle Double Black Envy Jeweling polish (P&S-EJP) to determine if it is worth the $62.00 for only 16 ounces.

By the way, if you are wondering about how much gloss polishing produces, you have got to check out Loach`s Detailing-PhD-worthy epic thread on gloss meters (which he did after it was requested of his post #31 within THIS resurrected thread about listing your top three jeweling polishes):
https://www.autopia.org/forums/pain...rement-thread-waxmode-testing.html?highlight=
 
This kind of depends on the paint you are working on but for normal paint, Zaino ZPC leaves a very nice looking finish. Mothers Ceramic 3 in 1 also works well as a finishing polish. Neither will remove heavy defects.
 
Carpro`s gloss pad is a unique pad in my limited experience. One of the youtube guys i watch/trust said it was the softest pad on the market. Can`t remember who it was to quote someone.
 
Lonnie said:
Just a request to know how jeweling (OK, Accumulator: burnishing) is being done these days...
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Thank you, you made my day :D

If I were gonna burnish something, I`d use the Cyclo and my (very) old 1Z Hi-Gloss...just because I still have plenty. But some of the other products being mentioned do pique my interest!
 
I used a Cyclo to burnish too. Gee,that`s one tool that *never* gets mentioned. Such a shame because it`s such a pleasure to use.
 
Bill D said:
I used a Cyclo to burnish too. Gee,that`s one tool that *never* gets mentioned. Such a shame because it`s such a pleasure to use.
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And their newer versions oughta be even more user-friendly what with the balancing system and adjustable speed.

I suspect that people think their heavy/unwieldy/etc., but they sure are *NOT* IME, easy-peasy even with just one hand.
 
Accumulator or Bill D:
Is the Cyclo considered a dual-action counter-rotational rotary (WOW, there`s a title for an acronym D-AC-RRCy!)??
The new owners who bought the patent rights to make/manufacture this machine, Rupes SpA, says it is not and call it a "Dual Head Orbital Polisher" (DHOPCy?!). The patents were issued in 1953 after the military gave its approval for use to polish aluminum sheet metal skins on aircraft and missiles. Apparently, AirStream took notice and used this "tool" for polishing its iconic aluminum-skinned pull-behind RVs/campers later on.
I did not know that there were design updates to this particular buffing machine. The new design has a blue powder-coated metal housing, eschewing the original polished bare cast metal housing to provide better corrosion resistance and eliminating the manufacturing steps needed to product the previous high-luster finish (AKA, it was cheaper to paint it!).

Anyone still using their Cyclo`s if they have one???

I am still waiting to hear what buffing machine Autopians use for jeweling/burnishing. It has been an assumed detailing standard methodology that rotary buffing machines were/are the preferred machine for this process. Tell me else-wise if this is true or not.
FYI, this is the thread I started in August of 2016 on this very subject:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/mach...-polishes-jeweling-burnishing.html?highlight=
 
I would agree with the manufacturer and call the Cyclo a dual head orbital polisher. That`s what makes it unique. I believe this polisher`s action mimics that of the human hand only much,much faster. I feel like Superman every time I use it. :D.

I only use it because it`s so smooth and does a good job buffing. I wouldn`t attempt to do much correction with it, even with cutting pads, due to two of my cars having hard paint. It never helped much to me in that regard. For correction I`d always use a traditional DA or rotary first then finish off with the Cyclo. Now correcting airplane surfaces may be a different story. The Cyclo has been used on them for so long that it must be doing something right
 
Bill D said:
I only use it because it`s so smooth and does a good job buffing. I wouldn`t attempt to do much correction with it, even with cutting pads, due to two of my cars having hard paint. It never helped much to me in that regard. For correction I`d always use a traditional DA or rotary first then finish off with the Cyclo. Now correcting airplane surfaces may be a different story. The Cyclo has been used on them for so long that it must be doing something right
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Haven`t seen many Autopians speak about the Cyclo so good to know you like it. With regards to airplanes, I don`t think there is as much to correct since they don`t drive airplanes through swirl-o-matic car washes. :)
 
dgage said:
Haven`t seen many Autopians speak about the Cyclo so good to know you like it. With regards to airplanes, I don`t think there is as much to correct since they don`t drive airplanes through swirl-o-matic car washes. :)
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dgage,

All Airplanes are either painted over the metal or bare metal and they all need correction if you want them to look great.
A lot of Airplanes sit outside their entire lives in all the weather and it leaves a lot of embedded fallout, dirt, etc., in the paint.

Yes, they use the hardest paint known to man, it used to be Urethane based, I dont know what it is now, but I do know that the painted ones definitely look 1000% better when properly corrected and then put some kind of a sealer on them..

It also will take 60+, 5-1/4" - 6", purple foam wool pads, 25+ foam polishing pads, the hardest compound you can find, ( I used Meguiars 105) and (I used Meguiars 205 to polish), a really good Rotary, mad skills, and a lot of hours to paint correct even a medium sized Cessna.. The huge amount of pads, you will wear down completely and throw them away.. All the rivets in airplanes also help destroy pads very fast, so you have to be mindful of them..

There are people that just Detail Airplanes for a living, and after my experiences with a couple, I do not ever want to do that job... :)

The killer for me about Airplanes was that just when you think you got all the surfaces done Perfectly, (and they were), you remember - Oh, I have to do all the Undersides of those Wings and the Horizontal Stabilizers back there.. :( :)

Daily clean up of all the compound dust, wool foam pad fibers, everywhere also takes hours to do, depending on how big the hangar is and where the airplane is located in it.

The rich people that own the airplane/s, do not want to walk into the hangar, get compound dust all over their expensive hand made in Italy shoes, and get into their Airplane and track compound dust in there.. :)

Dan F
 
Thanks for the education Dan! It doesn’t sound like something my almost 50 year old body could handle anymore. And I’m not sure I could charge enough even if I could. :)
 
dgage said:
Thanks for the education Dan! It doesn’t sound like something my almost 50 year old body could handle anymore. And I’m not sure I could charge enough even if I could. :)
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Amigo !

Tks for your reply -

Yes, it is extremely hard on the upper body for sure.. But, if you get through it, you Will be much stronger for the work.. :)

Airplanes are right up there or even harder than Detailing Boats...

But at least Boats do not have as much upper side and an underside like Airplane wings, etc..
The Gelcoat they use on Boats is really hard to work on, but it can be done with a Rotary... And Boats will absolutely kill all machines you use, unless you get the very best which currently is the Yellow Dewalt Rotary, and even they give it up after so many zillion hours of grinding on that boat gelcoat..

I have a great friend in the Pacific Northwest that has the absolute best skills for making Boat gelcoat come out like a mirror; no swirls, no holograms, just perfect, clear, deep, gloss.. He is especially great on Black Boats..

This is also another line of work that I do not want to get into either... :) Yes, the money is also great ! They get $thousand+ on a lot of them, but again, the time spent holding that 10+lb big Dewalt Rotary for hours and hours, all the way around , all those little places, those steps, those stickers, those snaps, etc., yeah, we do not know how great we have it to Detail vehicles! :)

Happy New Year !

Dan F
 
noorth said:
Carpro`s gloss pad is a unique pad in my limited experience. One of the youtube guys i watch/trust said it was the softest pad on the market. Can`t remember who it was to quote someone.
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Pads! Good question since we are talking finishing/jeweling:

I like Rupes D-A series, white & yellow or Buff & Shine Uro-Tec series, white & yellow on a DA polisher.

Is there a pad(s) you find better to consider???
 
Lonnie- As Bill noted, the Cyclo is just a dual-head RO. They say it`s "long-throw" and OK...it does correct a *lot* better for me than either of my PCs ever did. BUT, it`s no Flex3401 and I suspect that today`s (single-head) Long-Throws are a lot more aggressive too. IMO it`s best for burnishing and LSPing. Although, yeah...you could fit it with their wool pads and ramp up the cut if you didn`t have a better option.
 
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