FK1000p Beginner questions

definitely keep it off the trim. If it`s just a light smudge, you may have luck quickly wiping it off with a MF towel. Certainly do not let it dry on the trim.
 
Yeah, if you apply super thin, let it dry all it wants. I taped the last time but won`t next. Tape if you can`t be precise or you have something with texture. Wipe within a minute if you hit something you didn`t want to.
 
I keep a clean MF and a bottle of FK425 handy just in case I get some on the pebble plastic--a quick wipe before it drys only take a few seconds.
 
It sounds like I`m the only guy here who`s deliberately used it on trim. No, no....Don`t try this at home, kids! It sure *was* tricky to pull off and if tried on the wrong trim I can imgine it going terribly sideways.

Yeah, a MF slightly dampened with FK425 to wipe it off immediately oughta take care of any !oops! if you`re applying as thinly as you oughta. To be honest, IMO if you`re applying it as carefully as you should it won`t happen anyhow.
 
I`m using a Jumbo waffle weave microfiber towel to buff this stuff off. It is great! A single towl can do a whole large car even with how thick I apply it. And it washes up almost perfect with just a 20min soak in soap powder.

However applying this stuff just takes sooo long for my liking , it really is annoying.


I have noticed the beading up after applying isn`t that significant, on the roof & flat paint panels after a lite drizzle it was very fine drops, & on windscreen in heavy rain it just doesn`t look like much beading is going on compared to side windows. Although I have nothing to compare to, perhaps I was expecting more? I wonder if polishing the glass with M105 & D/A to remove previous hard water spots has anything to do with it?
 
Not sure - I`ve got a couple shots on my phone of some impressive beading after a fresh application of FK.

How long did the FK cure on the car before the rain? FK is one of those sealants that really needs the full 24 hours to cure before exposing to moisture.
 
Huh, the beading I get from it is quite impressive, even compared to M16/Collinite, and most of the water (and any dirt) rolls right off the vehicle with any driving. I get tiny, spherical beads that last for months and months.
 
According to this four month trial the FK1000P was the least durable:
Linking to non-PBMG detailing sites not permitted. Link removed.
 
I dont understand tbe difficulties, now it is difficult to apply ?
I find it is like applying water, that easy well no quite but close).
 
Long time fk1000p user and I had challenges when using yellow pads, but it might be the ones I have. Switched to fat red ones that had a stiffer surface and all was resolved. Still went thin and sill I let it dry.
 
I got excited by reading all the good reviews on FK1000 and living in Darwin Australia (Hot and Humid) i wanted to try this go to sealant. My Yellow Muscle car Pings already but here are the results so far. Roof - Applied PS21 cleanser then Autoglym Super Resin Polish waited 48 hours then applied thin FK1000 buffed off then waited 24 hours to do a 2nd coat of FK1000. Result; a beautiful slippery Mirror reflection; but still not done - 48 hours later applied PS21 Wax to one half of the roof and Polish Angel CiterineWax to the other just to see if there was a difference. Yes some more depth and still a beautiful reflection. Hood - Did a compound with Concours Precision and a polish with Adams Finishing Polish (the Adams fought my paint its a (medium grade paint with clear coat) Adams rep advised maybe used to high a setting on my DA 5/6 mmm. Still a nice finish then applied FK1000 after the polish then waited 48 hours this time to apply second coat (i think 24 hours in a warm climate is plenty of time). Result -Mirror reflection and slick to the touch. I had no application or buffing problems (megs yellow foam applicators used and quality MF cloths) temps were around 30 degrees Celsius and humidity probably at 65-70% so not a real humid day. Have not applied a wax to the Hood just yet but will probably use AutoGlym HD wax it has worked really well on this yellow color. The FK1000 is a top liner and i cant wait to get it on the rest of the car including glass. Just to let you know i was hesitant about using it because i am a wax preference guy but wanted to try this product as a much better and longer protection alternative to just wax. The added bonus of FK1000 is its great gloss effect then use a wax to add depth . Well i am not disappointed. 10/10 all round.
 
According to this four month trial the FK1000P was the least durable:
Linking to non-PBMG detailing sites not permitted. Link removed.
Wonder what they were comparing it against. Also wonder about the testing protocol. Just because it`s the most durable of what *I* have tried that sure doesn`t mean something else isn`t better.

I *am* a bit surprised that it was beaten in a 4-month test though, it`s always lasted a lot longer than that for me.
 
DannyZZ- Welcome to Autopia!

Your first post here sure got my attention! Between your environment and your use of FK1000P + AutoGlym SRP I found much of interest. I had just mentioned SRP on another thread here the other day where we were discussing All-in-Ones.

You and I might be the only guys here who even *have* any SRP! I`ve only done one test panel with that combo so far, but will probably... eventually... use that on my wife`s car.

I`ll be looking forward to hearing how well the FK1000P lasts for you, though it might be hard to tell once you top it with a wax.
 
EdLancer- Could you give us a Cliff`s Notes Summary of that test? Like just the names of the LSPs that beat out FK1000P?

Just curious... I can`t really recall any, uhm.. Official Test Results... regarding LSPs that have ever mirrored my first-hand experiences, but I`d still like to know as it does sound interesting for those of us who think the FK1000P is All That.

There was some Japanese wax a while back that people said was really something, but by the time I looked into it...and got mired in a zillion product choices from the same maker....others had reported that it wasn`t anything great after all.
 
Thanks Accumulator for the Autopia kind welcome this is my first forum and i have really enjoyed reading the posts and I can clearly see why your posts are highly regarded. Re the SRP i have used this lots and I rate it highly as a gloss polish and i think it may not get the Kudos it deserves as the slick higher profile brands take the center stage (maybe its the silicone). Very similar to FK1000 not being appreciated for the great job it does. Maybe if FK1000 was marketed like "Even the Devil banned FK1000 from Hell because he couldn`t apply enough natural Heat to make it Melt" would get some attention LOL.On your post; you prompted me to have a little rethink and on my next panel i will still do the SRP topped with FK1000 and then to a smaller section of the same panel not apply wax and that will be the basis for the comparison. I can then let you guys know how it stands up. In Unity Danny .
 
Mr. A, I`ve got a situation with FK that might interest you - puzzling to me anyway.

I can get 4-6 months no problem on my car, the metallic silver `15 hyundai elantra I`ve referenced in the past. Paint has been clayed, but never polished. I do have some slight wash marring over the last couple years, but nothing too horrendous the metallic silver doesn`t hide well enough for this DD. I do plan on polishing now that my wash routine is sorted, but thats a topic for another day...

However - on my wife`s car, 2005 Camry in a dark green metallic, FK won`t stay on it more than a month. I clayed, Iron deconned, compounded and polished the hood a while back, and got it respectable enough considering 12 year old original paint. Final polish was done with HD speed. I waited a day, did another wash with PB SSS, and then applied 2 coats of FK in my normal "apply, wait a week, wash, apply second coat" process. It lasted maybe a month before all beading or indication of protection was gone. The water during the wash was absolutely clinging to the hood like nothing was on there.

Ok, head scratcher for sure. Maybe the FK didn`t like the Poxy in the HD speed? I then did a "strip wash" to the best of the chemicals I had on hand. PB Bug Squash mixed strong and left to dwell, then washed with the PB SSS shampoo. Clayed again just to make sure the lsp was gone, then washed again to make sure the lube (Blackfire clay lube) wasn`t the issue. I repeated the application process for FK noted above, and got the same results. No more than a month, maybe a month and a half tops.

I`m not sure what`s going on, but wanted to provide this scenario for your "FK not giving the experiences we all rave about" story collection. I still absolutely love FK, but I am going to have to find something that plays well with the wife`s car until we punt it and get another vehicle.

Nick
 
DAnnyZZ- I bet you`ll prefer the *look* of the topped FK, but we`ll see...I`m just all about being able to add more FK1000P after a while. And I liked your "Even the Devil.." comment :D

NickClark08- That *is* a head-scratcher, huh?!? Somebody else here has the same issue, FK1000P just doesn`t last on one of his vehicles, and we never did figure it out. Some stuff defies explanation, much as I hate to admit it. Two thoughts:

Maybe it *is* the Speed. Although FK1000P has worked fine for me on top of various things, AFAIK all the underlying products I`ve used are *all synthetic*, and I don`t know if that`s true about the Speed...somehow suspect it`s not, but I just don`t know. Maybe that`s one combo that just doesn`t work.

-OR-

The rear bumpercover of my wife`s A8 simply doesn`t "take" LSPs. No matter what I use, it`s dead in short order. Must just be whatever paint they shot it with the last time, no other panel on any of our other vehicles is quite like it, and I have *presumably* the same (re)paint on a few of `em. Hope your situation isn`t that hopeless.

I`d try redoing with nothing under the FK1000P and see if that matters. And if not, gee...I dunno!

If that happens and/but you do find something that *does* last on it, I`d sure like to hear about it, if only so I can offer a "if the FK1000P doesn`t work, try..." suggestion should it come up again.
 
I appreciate the response!

Further notes:

I`ve tried Fuzion and PB Nattys Black paste waxes, and the month cut-off seems to be about the same for all. Probably about what you would expect for the PB`s, maybe expected a little longer for the Fuzion. I don`t know.

I applied some Mequiars Ultimate PW last night, seeing if I get different results. I`ll post back.

DAnnyZZ- I bet you`ll prefer the *look* of the topped FK, but we`ll see...I`m just all about being able to add more FK1000P after a while. And I liked your "Even the Devil.." comment :D

NickClark08- That *is* a head-scratcher, huh?!? Somebody else here has the same issue, FK1000P just doesn`t last on one of his vehicles, and we never did figure it out. Some stuff defies explanation, much as I hate to admit it. Two thoughts:

Maybe it *is* the Speed. Although FK1000P has worked fine for me on top of various things, AFAIK all the underlying products I`ve used are *all synthetic*, and I don`t know if that`s true about the Speed...somehow suspect it`s not, but I just don`t know. Maybe that`s one combo that just doesn`t work.

-OR-

The rear bumpercover of my wife`s A8 simply doesn`t "take" LSPs. No matter what I use, it`s dead in short order. Must just be whatever paint they shot it with the last time, no other panel on any of our other vehicles is quite like it, and I have *presumably* the same (re)paint on a few of `em. Hope your situation isn`t that hopeless.

I`d try redoing with nothing under the FK1000P and see if that matters. And if not, gee...I dunno!

If that happens and/but you do find something that *does* last on it, I`d sure like to hear about it, if only so I can offer a "if the FK1000P doesn`t work, try..." suggestion should it come up again.
 
I appreciate the response!

Further notes:

I`ve tried Fuzion and PB Nattys Black paste waxes, and the month cut-off seems to be about the same for all. Probably about what you would expect for the PB`s, maybe expected a little longer for the Fuzion. I don`t know.

I applied some Mequiars Ultimate PW last night, seeing if I get different results. I`ll post back.

Just a thought. I see you mentioned PB SSS shampoo which is I presume Super Slick and Suds. It appears by the description it has an oil in it that "encapsulates dirt", maybe this oil is leaving a residue behind affecting the FK1000p. My only suggestion would be is to use an IPA mix to strip it down even further and go from there. Again just a thought.
 
nick- I would do a light polish just to abrade any waxes off the paint rather than relying on heavy washes. Maybe quickly polish half of the hood only with something very gentle like a black LC Pad, do an "IPA Wipedown" then apply the FK1000P then compare durability with the other side.
 
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