PBs vs DACP?

nick, is dacp harder to remove than SG? i am very familiar with SG and it is a pain to remove!
 
DACP isn't TOO bad if you make sure you use a PC at 5-6 and let it buff in until it is really clear. SG is a pain--especially in the sun!
 
gotcha, why many companies never thought about the elements (like the sun) when creating detailing products is beyond me. gotta love poorboys for that!
 
Thick I'm going to try SSR2. I have a heavily oxidized black Tacoma to do next week.

Hope I can make it shine with my PC and SSR2 + PwC + EX + S100.
 
Carglow, you will probably need a step down polish that does a bit better than PwC. Do you have SSR1 or Pro Polish? SSR2 is strong and good stuff, but I would suggest a final polish of some sort before PwC as your base.

The Regimen looks good that you have---definitely post some pics!
 
Nickc0844 said:
Carglow, you will probably need a step down polish that does a bit better than PwC. Do you have SSR1 or Pro Polish? SSR2 is strong and good stuff, but I would suggest a final polish of some sort before PwC as your base.

The Regimen looks good that you have---definitely post some pics!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip Nickc0844.

I'll pick up some SSR1 and SSR2.

Presently I have PwC and EX.

I'm surprised SSR2 is as aggressive as DACP. Thought SSR3 might be similar, but I've never tried either ... so I'll go with SSR2 first.
 
CarGlow said:
I'm surprised SSR2 is as aggressive as DACP. Thought SSR3 might be similar, but I've never tried either ... so I'll go with SSR2 first.
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DACP is in between SSR2 and SSR3 in terms of abrasiveness. My guess would be that the prototype SSR2.5 would be closer to DACP.
 
Start with SSR2 on your typical polishing pad....if this isn't cutting it, bump up the abrasiveness on your pad, then hit it again after buffing off with SSR2 on the polishing pad. Revere down to SSR1 (gives a wet look, where as Pro Polish is more clear), then to PwC.

You'll have yourself a killer car afterwards!!
 
Changing pads?

Nickc0844 said:
Start with SSR2 on your typical polishing pad....if this isn't cutting it, bump up the abrasiveness on your pad, then hit it again after buffing off with SSR2 on the polishing pad. Revere down to SSR1 (gives a wet look, where as Pro Polish is more clear), then to PwC.

You'll have yourself a killer car afterwards!!
Click to expand...

Assuming SSR2 is abrassive enough to get the job done, and I start "stepping down", e.g. SSR1, then PwC. Will I have to change pads each "step down" or can I use the same polishing pad?
 
Good question, what pads do you currently have or plan to use.

P.S. I'll be here for a bit, so I'll get back to you!
 
FWIW, these pics were taken after using SSR2 by hand and a foam applicator, then EX. I have never had to follow up SSR@ with anything. I find that if it is worked correctly, it leaves a nice clean high gloss look. It maybe different when working with heavy oxidation.

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47b3d631b3127cce8c3290cecc590000000610
 
Here is my suggestion:
Try SSR2 on the White pad first, if it isn't cutting it, bump up to the yellow

Yellow--SSR2 on PC speed 5.5
White--SSR1 on PC 5.5
White--SSR1 4.5-5
Orange--PwC on 4-4.5
Black--EX on 3.5-4
S100 by hand

Go by your conscience, but the 2nd SSR1 might yield better results for you, especially on black! I've seen the amazing work it's done.

Good luck, and good talking to you, and definitely post some pics when your done!
 
CarGlow said:
I have 7.5 LC pads:

1 yellow
3 white
1 black
1 orange
Click to expand...
Here's my take on this situation -

- SSR2 on Orange, spread at 2 & buff at 5
- Review results. If it needs more work, either try another pass with the Orange pad or go to the Yellow.
- SSR1 on White, spread at 2 & buff at 4
- PwC on White, spread at 2 & buff at 4
- EX on Black, spread and buff at 3
- S100 by hand
 
Do you buff SSR2 & SSR1 until it's almost all gone?

Is it like DACP in the sense you have to physically break it down?
 
Diminishing abrasives......if I'm using the PC, I will buff until almost gone. The PB's products are designed to do so, however, they can be used by hand too, so it is not as pertinent as DACP would be. I use SSR1 and 2 on my bike (see new EX-P thread) by hand.
 
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