More "wax stripping" BS

if you want to strip the wax off of your car, why not use the same detergent that you use to wash you wax pads ?

just a thought
 
Why would anyone buy this specialty product? Just about any APC would strip wax, so why not just do a spray down with that and maybe add a bit to your wash bucket. Doesn`t that seem like the more logical thing, since most of us already have APC on hand?
 
jrock645 said:
Why would anyone buy this specialty product? Just about any APC would strip wax, so why not just do a spray down with that and maybe add a bit to your wash bucket. Doesn`t that seem like the more logical thing, since most of us already have APC on hand?
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This is what I do.
 
JBM said:
Have we come full circle from Zaino`s instructions of using dawn, but companies just call it "wax stripping soap" instead.

The outrage when Z said to use dawn is still echoing in these halls. Well if it strips wax it must be harsh, that was the argument, thats my only outrage really. Deep down im still a die hard Z user :)
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It`s about the alkaline content. Dawn soap is designed to strip grease, naturally it then has a drying effect. I was told too many high alkaline washes are bad for rubber pieces. 3very so often, no big deal
 
04accord said:
His "proof" that it worked is that when he clayed it the paint still beads water, but i thought it was determined clay didnt remove lsp`s
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If their QD has wax in it and that was used as the clay lubricant, then the paint will bead water from the wax in the QD residue. An isopropyl alcohol wipe should degrade or remove the wax left behind.
 
This subject has been discussed in depth and pretty much shown the only way to remove an existing LSP is to polish it off. Here`s a link to it on AG--pay particular attention to the posts by PiPUK--- LSP stripping
 
That`s why I only do corrections + I like money

&/or

I always wash it down with 1Z perls so in the end... it doesn`t matter!
 
Sorta-random thoughts/experiences follow:

Bare paint can bead water really well and can even feel quite slick.

People have used varous (usually alkaline) APC-type products to strip LSPs (EF HI & "A" are the ones I`ve used the most) so effectively that the parts involved could be painted with no additional prep.

Can`t recall Dawn ever stripping a healthy LSP for me, even when used in a very potent mix. It`s sometimes left a haze or messed with how the panels involved felt, but the LSP would "come back" if I cleaned the whatever-it-was Dawn residue off. Oh...well, it did strip Souveran OK, but then so will most shampoo mixes.

I guess it can be a fine line between "wax" and "more of a sealant", but I`ve washed vehicles with *HOT* water many times without stripping LSPs described/marketed as "wax".
 
Accumulator said:
Sorta-random thoughts/experiences follow:

Bare paint can bead water really well and can even feel quite slick.

People have used varous (usually alkaline) APC-type products to strip LSPs (EF HI & "A" are the ones I`ve used the most) so effectively that the parts involved could be painted with no additional prep.

Can`t recall Dawn ever stripping a healthy LSP for me, even when used in a very potent mix. It`s sometimes left a haze or messed with how the panels involved felt, but the LSP would "come back" if I cleaned the whatever-it-was Dawn residue off. Oh...well, it did strip Souveran OK, but then so will most shampoo mixes.

I guess it can be a fine line between "wax" and "more of a sealant", but I`ve washed vehicles with *HOT* water many times without stripping LSPs described/marketed as "wax".
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Spot on!
 
if I wanted to strip a wax id just take it to the local coin op,,, their pink soap will strip the hair off your skin, lol
 
After I polish the paint with M205 and wipe with 15% IPA, I`ll see a smooth consistent water sheet for a few minutes when I go to spray it down, and then it will slow way down. If I wash with a regular car soap after that IPA wipe it will accelerate that diminishing water behavior and the surface is almost hydrophilic at that point. So for the cars I`m testing, once the LSP has been abraded off and touched up with IPA to try and remove any polishing oils, then a short rinse or wash will produce a very slow sheet. If you`ve got great water behavior after polishing and a quick wash, let me know.
 
Loach- Regulars here know (because I belabored the point forever :o ) that the Trade Secret Oils in M205 drove me nuts until I started using Hi-Temp`s Akyra-Clean (or whatever they now call Prep-Wash). IPA was an exercise in frustration.
 
I was in Japan in the late 80`s and seen the first clay bar`s being use and wondering WTF is this. Took a few yrs to it to show up in the states.
 
Guess it might depend on how one defines "soap". Wash with ValuGard`s "A" and it`ll strip off any LSP along with any other contamination. Not arguing...I just like the idea of simply doing a wash if there`s something you`d like to get off the paint. Ya know how fanatical I am about not using abrasives unless doing correction ;)

I guess a good (chemical/non-abrasive) Paint Cleaner would accomplish the same thing and would be easier to control than some wash solution that`ll get all over everything. I`ve used Pinnacle PCL to remove a LSP I didn`t like and it worked fine. FWIW, I found KAIO to be pretty ineffective at LSP-stripping so I wouldn`t use that.

Or you could always reach for some actual "wax and grease remover", be it AkyraClean or a bodyshop solvent (suppose Eraser would work but I`ve never tried it).

IMO if somebody`s claying aggressively enough to take off a healthy LSP then they`re claying more aggressively than I ever would unless also planning to do significant correction. Guess most people do clay that way though...
 
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