Mixing pads after cleaning

Civicclutch

New member
So i had heard that i shouldn`t mix pads with different compounds or polishes. This makes sense if the pads are uncleaned, but does this still apply if I`ve washed them.
 
IMO this is one of those "theoretical vs. practical" things. They *should* be free of the previously used product after you clean `em and thus it shouldn`t matter. But getting pads 100% decontaminated is a mighty tall order.

I`ll mix very similar (aggressiveness-wise) products and will use more aggressive products after milder ones, but I won`t use a correcing pad for a LSP or even a compounding pad for a finishing polish.
 
I mark my pads (having a white hook & loop backing helps for this) with the product I used on that pad. I *DO* try and keep them for individual product use.

That said, I`ll do the same as Accumulator. I might use a pad previously used with M205, and use it with HD Polish.
 
... I might use a pad previously used with M205, and use it with HD Polish.

Yeah, that`s one of the progressions I was willing to do. Even though the M205 doesn`t finish as well for me as the HD Polish it didn`t cause any discernable issues. Might not try it on BMW Jet Black though.
 
The way I work is my compounding pads are all the same color and they are never used for anything but compounding..

I clean all pads with Snappy Clean which has proven to me that it is very effective in getting everything out of my pads, so I have no worry about that part..

Polishing pads - all the same color/s and they never do anything but Polishing..

Finer/Finest pads - all the same color/s and they never do anything but highest level of polishing or as it used to be called a decade ago - Jeweling...

Only Flat pads for me - I want the entire surface working really hard with no cuts, dimples, holes, vents, etc., to weaken the pad surface/structure..

I use only Rotary Power so all my pads get a good, hard, work out but they can handle it just fine - even the Lake Country Hydro-Shreds I have come to love...
Dan F
 
The way I work is...all [compounding/poishing/burnishing] pads the same color and they are never used for anything but ...

If/when I replace mine I`m gonna try to keep them color-coded too. I`m close now but not 100% so I keep them in separate drawers.


Only Flat pads for me - I want the entire surface working really hard with no cuts, dimples, holes, vents, etc., to weaken the pad surface/structure..

Same here!
 
if they are cleaned well, then they should be able to switch products ... but as stated above .. most people won`t use a finishing product with a cutting pad .. but I do often use cutting products with finishing pads .. :)
 
If/when I replace mine I`m gonna try to keep them color-coded too. I`m close now but not 100% so I keep them in separate drawers.
...

Same here!

I`ve been working on color coding for some time. I keep mine in plastic CD storage cases. I actually just found a couple different ones that are perfect for 5.5" Hybrids, and another slim one for 3" LC Flat pads.

Cuz of STOKDGS, I even VERY recently placed an order for the HydroShreds! Adding to my growing inventory of pads (my old ones are getting too old, so I`m retiring some) and have a couple of jobs due this summer


if they are cleaned well, then they should be able to switch products ... but as stated above .. most people won`t use a finishing product with a cutting pad .. but I do often use cutting products with finishing pads .. :)

Cut product on finishing?!?! Whoa.

I`ll be using Polish w/EXP on Sunday, along with my variable contact (?) pads.
 
Cut product on finishing?!?! Whoa.

I`ll be using Polish w/EXP on Sunday, along with my variable contact (?) pads.

Yes, if you are using a product with diminishing abrasives, you can use a finishing pad (black or red) so that when it finishes off it will leave little to no marring.
This was a trick I learned from a customer who details winners at Pebble Beach .. It does work well with the SSRs
 
Yes, if you are using a product with diminishing abrasives, you can use a finishing pad (black or red) so that when it finishes off it will leave little to no marring.
This was a trick I learned from a customer who details winners at Pebble Beach .. It does work well with the SSRs

Got more black pads (recvd today, and more ordered), so I`ll be trying that!

SSRs, hmm. I have the samples I initially bought from you in that kit, plus SSR1 in a 16oz version. I might have to get more. haha. I do have all the Polish With in 16oz bottles.

ahhh. so much product, not enough clients. Planning on pushing for more jobs, now that I`m settling down at the new place.
 
I use my green cutting pads with either M100, or M205. However, I only use the M205 on the blue polishing pads.
 
Would using the Grit Guard Pad Washer qualify as making the pad 100% clean (or at least as close to 100% as possible)? Seems reasonable that washing by hand may get the pad pretty clean, but not as clean as using a pad washing system- so using a pad with another product would definitely be okay after the pad washer (but questionable if washing by hand).
 
The only pads I worry with are Rupes pads and I use strictly Rupes polishes with them. As long as you clean the pads afterwards I wouldn`t worry much with it. Most products we use are diminishing abrasives so if there are any left behind they are going to be broken down anyway. If you use a SMAT product I would just make sure you clean the pad very well. I typically let mine soak in a bucket of water and pad rejuvenator (McKee's 37 Polishing Pad Rejuvenator) and then rinse using Swanicyouth`s bucket method.

Some SMAT products that come to mind: Optimum, Meguiar`s, and 3D. I believe Wolfgang Uber Compound is as well, but not positive.
 
Would using the Grit Guard Pad Washer qualify as making the pad 100% clean (or at least as close to 100% as possible)? Seems reasonable that washing by hand may get the pad pretty clean, but not as clean as using a pad washing system- so using a pad with another product would definitely be okay after the pad washer (but questionable if washing by hand).

I have found that the pad washer works really well if you are using a good process..

When I had a Pad Washer, all I had to do was spin it using Snappy Clean, then rinse them, and I always had really clean pads after spinning them to dry at 3000 rpm on my Makita Rotary...

Later, I got way more busy and setting up the pad washer bucket, etc., was taking too much time so I just went to soaking them immediately after using, in a bucket of Snappy Clean, then washing and rinsing them by hand later in the sink, and I was good to go...

Never had pad problems from the cleaning/rinsing process..

If you use a cleaner like Snappy Clean, at minimum, please wear nitrile gloves or better still, the long sleeve rubber ones they sell for cleaning, so you don`t get any of the soap on you skin.. It is very good at removing all the oils out of the pads, and it will do the same thing to your skin...
Dan F
 
Like Stokdgs I`ve found that throwing the pads in a bucket of Snappy Clean immediately after use does wonders for ease of cleaning later, even if cleaning by hand.

Since I`ve built one of these pad washers (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkLXeWyxP0E&feature=youtu.be ) my pads have been spotless after cleaning. The only time I add additional cleaning product is to help removing LSPs from the pads--after they soak in the Snappy I`ll spray LSP pads with some Orange Degreaser before final cleaning. NOTE: This pad washer was conceived and built by Swanicyouth.

This pad cleaner is simple to build if you find a bucket that is too small for the Grit Guard (I found some at Lowes by taking my GG with me)--the GG only goes half way down so all you need to do is cut the openings at the bottom. Works like a charm.
 
Like Stokdgs I`ve found that throwing the pads in a bucket of Snappy Clean immediately after use does wonders for ease of cleaning later, even if cleaning by hand.

Since I`ve built one of these pad washers (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkLXeWyxP0E&feature=youtu.be ) my pads have been spotless after cleaning. The only time I add additional cleaning product is to help removing LSPs from the pads--after they soak in the Snappy I`ll spray LSP pads with some Orange Degreaser before final cleaning. NOTE: This pad washer was conceived and built by Swanicyouth.

This pad cleaner is simple to build if you find a bucket that is too small for the Grit Guard (I found some at Lowes by taking my GG with me)--the GG only goes half way down so all you need to do is cut the openings at the bottom. Works like a charm.
Impressive. I`m guessing that`s pretty low pressure nozzle? If I did that with my pressure washer I`d only have bits of foam left, even with the 40* nozzle. Lol!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
Like Stokdgs I`ve found that throwing the pads in a bucket of Snappy Clean immediately after use does wonders for ease of cleaning later, even if cleaning by hand.

Since I`ve built one of these pad washers (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkLXeWyxP0E&feature=youtu.be )

This pad cleaner is simple to build if you find a bucket that is too small for the Grit Guard (I found some at Lowes by taking my GG with me)--the GG only goes half way down so all you need to do is cut the openings at the bottom. Works like a charm.

I second this method. I just cut a hole on the side of a bucket and use double grit guards. I don`t glue my guards to the bucket. I also use just a regular hose nozzle on the jet setting instead of pressure washer.

btw. I quit squeezing my pads like seen in the video. makes them oval shape after you do it too much then they start to vibrate on the machine. while the pad is in the bucket on the grit guard. I just push down on the pad to wring it out then air dried on a DA
 
I second this method. I just cut a hole on the side of a bucket and use double grit guards. I don`t glue my guards to the bucket. I also use just a regular hose nozzle on the jet setting instead of pressure washer.

btw. I quit squeezing my pads like seen in the video. makes them oval shape after you do it too much then they start to vibrate on the machine. while the pad is in the bucket on the grit guard. I just push down on the pad to wring it out then air dried on a DA

Since my bucket only allows the GG to go a little more than half way down I didn`t have to glue it or add tubing around the edge to make it hold so it`s easily removable.

I`m with you on not twisting pads to squeeze out the water--I first press them down on the GG to get much of the water out then lay them flat on the floor between double thicknesses of an old terry towel then stand on each pad for a couple of seconds. They`re almost completely dry at that point, but I do allow them to air dry overnight before putting away for storage or re-using.
 
How `bout some pics ? Right now I`m thinkin` single, folding, thin, can`t fit. :idea
I like the three drawer plastic shelves
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6 inch rupes pads

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7 inch rupes pads

Missing a few uhs as they are currently in use or drying

Also my hydro shreds are in a second box
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I pretty much only use certain products with certain pads. Same as others have said. Some pads are for cutting, polishing, lsp, etc

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